johnu

1987 auto...

I am getting ready to order parts for a suspension refresh. I am looking at new shocks, front and back. While I am in there, what else should I change?

I am also having a problem with the front left wheel. When I grab the wheel at top and bottom, it has some motion (but none side to side). A friend of mine who is knowledgeable in most things 928 thinks it is the upper ball joint. Can that ball joint be easily replaced or rebuilt, or do I need to replace the entire A-arm? I don't think it is the bearing, but I will probably replace it anyways just to rule it out.

Thanks
John

Lizard928

Rebuilt upper a-arms are done by 928intl.
Contact Mark and he will set you up.

dr bob

Could also be the lower ball joint, more easily replaceable. An extra set of eyes and maybe a dial indicator would help narrow down where it's loose. Generally by 100-150k, it all needs to be looked at hard.

uncre8tv

Please keep this thread updated. I am needing to do the same. My Boge's are locked (rusted? stuck whatever) into their lowest setting, I'm sitting 50mm to 80mm low all around. I just want a stock ride, nothing too stiff at all. Torn between new Boges (and new collars - though I think I can save the adjusters) vs a Koni setup with news springs at stock spring rates.

gcthree

Roger also has someone that rebuilds the upper A-arms...

dr bob

There's not a lot of magic to this stuff generally. The upper control arms come out with some grunting and such, with the nuts tucked up tight on the inside of the fender walls next to the exhaust. Replacements come with new boots so you can go to town popping the old balljoints loose.

The collars on the shocks needs a bath in Kroil starting a week or two before you do the project. Spray it and keep it wet, and perhaps the collar will release from the sleeves. You'll need a spring compressor to disassemble the shock and springs.

The suspension deteriorates slowly with age and miles. We tell folks to never let the alignment tech lift the front end, so the wear often goes undetected. Rebuilt control arms, new lower ball joints, shocks, tie rods and ends, etc. will transform the way the car drives. Not cheap, but definitely a good investment in your driving pleasure and safety.

Leon Speed

Shocks, get a new lock nut. Consider the nylon washer and bump stop when the're in bad shape. Get some rubber lubricant for the rubber shock mounts to the fender.

Rebuilt upper A-arms, they're magic. New tie-rods. Steering rack boots. Delrin steering rack bushings.

Consider Ott-links.

johnu

Thanks guys, sounds pricey...

How about the rear suspension....what should be replaced there?

Leon Speed

Pricey, yes but it transforms your driving experience completely and it is good for another 20 years. There is a core charge for rebuilt upper A-arms, so if you return your old ones it is cheaper.

For the rear: shocks, new lock nut, maybe the nylon washer and bump stop, rubber lubricant. There are replacement bushings for the suspension available, I have no personal experience with those. There are some threads about those.

You might need new pins which go through the lower control arm, shock and wheel hub. Depends on how rusted they are. If you can get them out without too much trouble and they aren't bent, reuse them. Coat them liberally with silver paste (Optimoly or equivalent) before installing.

ammonman

For the rear suspension consider at minimum replacing the upper link ("dog bone") bushings and the bushing at the inner end of the lower control arm where the camber adjuster is. This will correct any failure to get the rear camber set correctly during alignment. The link pin for the Weissach joint rarely has any issues nor do the bushings on the outer ends of the lower control arms at the wheel carriers. Both are available IIRC, but most that have replaced them report no noticeable improvement in performance. As others have said, check the long pins that go through the outer end of the lower control arm/wheel carrier/shock and verify they are straight by rolling them on a flat surface. They are often bent/warped and need replaced. Used replacements from 928 International is a good way to go here.

Mike

Landseer

On front, new wheel bearings and spindle seals unless done recently.

+1 on 928 Intl A arm exchange program for 86.5-up.

+1 on replacing the bump stop and plastic washers on shock shaft.

FWIW, posted before, I've been finding failure of the U Joint that connects to the steering rack. Can look and test tight in situ, but be binding in one direction ( to the extent bending by hand is impossible) and on its way to failure.
The concept that you can ID the problem without disassembly isn't reliable for that particular mode of failure.
The combination of Location / inconvenience to inspect, plus the and the strength of the power steering system, can mask some issues with U joint.

johnu

My parts are starting to trickle in for this project. Got rebult upper A's from Roger. How difficult is it to replace the bushings on the lowers? Should I just order a set of rebuilts? Just trying to save a little cash if I can....if that's possible!

John

ammonman

AFAIK no replacement bushings are available for the front lowers, plus they are molded into/on there. 928 Intl. carries rebuilt units with the correct new rubber cast on/into the units. Well worth the coin if the rubber on you existing units is coming apart like mine were. Consider the new upper and lower arms an investment for the next 25 years. The handling will be amazing once it's all refreshed.

Mike

Elephant Bart

johnu, I think you're living my dream, a 928 and DMC-12 in a driveway!

johnu

Thanks, I guess I will have to dig into my wallet some more

Yes...too bad they won't both fit in the small garage...