Shifter play
#1
Racer
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Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Wrong Island NY, 04 CTT , 1984 S 5 Speed Slate Blue Metallic
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Hey guys what causes most of the side to side play in the shifter. front ball cup looks very tight almost no front to back play and the bushings were just replaced with the shifter. Might I need a rear coupler ?
#2
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It will be the rear shift coupler. Easy to check also, just slide the boot back and inspect. Top of the trans at the front.
#3
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'Just slide the boot back and inspect'. Of course if you can 'just slide it back' it's probably not original and may be OK. If the boot is REALLY tight and dried up (like mine was because it was still the original rear shift coupling), you may have to cut it or heat it with a heat gun or whatever just to check the rear coupler, by which time you may just have to plan on replacing it right along with the coupler as a set.
There are three bushings in the shift 'linkage', all are wear items and all three need to be replaced at some point. The rear shift coupling causes side-to-side wear as Sean has suggested, the front ball cup will affect forward-back play, and the release arm ball cup which can be reached by removing the air cleaner completely will affect how well the clutch arm pivots. Not part of the shift linkage per se, but a wear item that definitely affects the shifting of the car.
#6
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Several threads out there.
Best advice was to soak the grubscrew that holds it in place....... then re-soak it........ then soak it again.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ear-79-ob.html
This is my experience with it.
Best advice was to soak the grubscrew that holds it in place....... then re-soak it........ then soak it again.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ear-79-ob.html
This is my experience with it.
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#8
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If soaking the grub screw doesn't work for you, I've had good luck using a heat gun on it. Things are pretty tight in that area, so using a flame of some sort seemed too risky.
#9
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Be careful buying this part. There was a large batch of bad parts made that have the wrong size hole on one end, and they are still out there from major distributors. I know that Roger is familiar with this issue and has the right couplers.
#10
Nordschleife Master
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Several threads out there.
Best advice was to soak the grubscrew that holds it in place....... then re-soak it........ then soak it again.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ear-79-ob.html
This is my experience with it.
Best advice was to soak the grubscrew that holds it in place....... then re-soak it........ then soak it again.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ear-79-ob.html
This is my experience with it.
You need to use heat from a small blowtorch to melt the loctite, then it just turns right out!
#11
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I replaced my coupler a few months ago, and it made everything feel much tighter. Then last month I was taking the car out, and the shift **** would move side to side with as much movement as if it were in neutral. In every gear. I've been thinking ball cup this whole time...
#12
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I replaced my coupler a few months ago, and it made everything feel much tighter. Then last month I was taking the car out, and the shift **** would move side to side with as much movement as if it were in neutral. In every gear. I've been thinking ball cup this whole time...
#13
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When I do drop my transaxle to repair syncros, I will make a post about this issue. I will be able to closely look at all of the parts then. Do you have the original shifter, or after market? I've read it can also have something to so with the clips or bushings sliding off on the actual shifter. Although mine are tight.
#15