westija

Hi everyone,

I will shortly have to move overseas for my job. I wanted to take the 928 with me, but seems used cars cannot be imported by foreigners there.
So, now I have to sell it, or keep it in storage for a few years (3-4 maybe?).

Based on the issues we read here with cars stored for long time, I don't think it is a good idea, but wanted to get a feel from the experts. If the car value is really appreciating, it might be a good investment, plus the company might be paying for storage.

On the other hand I can try to sell it and buy a "new for me" one when I return.

What do you all think?



1989 S4 5 speed
Mileage: 156,XXX miles
VIN: WP0JB0924KS860137

Options:
158 Radio Blaupunkt Reno SQR46 - gone and replaced by PO by a newer one
220 Locking Differential (LSD)
383 Sport Seat Left, electrical vertically adjustable
387 Sport Seat Right, electrical vertically adjustable
418 Side protection Moldings
481 Manual Transmission
570 Air Conditioner with improved efficiency
650 Electrical Sliding Sunroof

Paint: Black on Black. I believe paint is original and in good condition overall, but has two small corrosion points at the bottom of both Rear Quarter Windows, a small scratch at the rear bumper and another one at the front Bumper (nothing too bad).

The Good - Mechanical updates and Maintenance with less than 5,000 miles ago (most really recently). Have all invoices from big three
- Replaced Timing Belt and Water Pump, Roller and Tensioner (will need to be checked for adjustment soon)
- New Radiator Hoses, Accessory Belts, Thermostat.
- Replaced Water Coolant Pressure Switch and Coolant Level Sensor
- Coolant drained and replaced with Zerex G-05
- Starter / Alternator wiring replaced
- Changed Engine Oil (Mobil 1 15W-50 with 1,300 ppm Zinc level) and Oil Filter
- New Hatch Struts
- New Window Switch, Rear Wiper Switch
- Replaced Power Steering Supply, High Pressure and Return Hoses and Reservoir. Drained Steering fluid and replaced with new.
- Replaced Passenger Dash Air Vent
- Replaced 4-way Vacuum Connector (located by Brake Booster), Vacuum actuators (Foot well and center comb flap) diaphragms and Vacuum solenoid. Had A/C professionally vacuumed and recharged
- Replaced Heater Valve and Short Hose and Driver's side Door Striker
- Performed full Intake Refresh, replacing among others: Vacuum Lines, Knock Sensors, Crank Position Sensor, ISV, seals and gaskets, Fuel Lines, Oil Dipstick, MAF Rubber Cowl and Y Connection, Fuel Injector Seal Kit (did not have them "witchhunted"). Powder coated Intake Manifold and Cam Covers (color: Tin Foil Silver P-7103B from Prismatic Powders). Renewed Fuel Rail and Fuel Cooler insulation. Results after Refresh - Vacuum: 45 seconds from 2.0 psi to zero. TPS check: Idle: 0.05 Ohms with pedal at idle, Infinite Ohms when moved. Wide Open Throtle: Infinity Ohms with pedal at idle position and 8 Ohms at 85-90% full position
- Removed steel collar from Windshield Washer Reservoir and replaced Fill Tube and Lid
- New "928 S4" Rear Decal light grey
- New Aluminum Fuel Vent Y Connector at passenger side wheel well
- Replaced Battery (Bosch) - in process
- New Pedal Pads
- Installed Console Support Bracket from Jaeger
- Replaced Air Filter and Air Filter Housing strap
- New B Pillar Speakers - Alpine Co-Axial
- New Roger Engine Mounts
- Replaced Oil Pan Gasket and installed Studs Set.
- Flushed Clutch Actuator when installing Oil Pan Gasket
- Installed Reman Steering Rack
- Wheels Alignment
- New Hatch Release Receiver
- Replaced both Fan Motors by used ones
- New Shifter Rear Coupler bushings
- Fuel Filter replaced
- Replaced Horn with two new FIAMM
- Replaced Windshield glass
- Removed front Tow Plug and re-tapped thread
Additional new parts that will go with the car:
Cam Plugs (hockey pucks), Hatch Rubber Buffers, Front Brake Pad Sensors, Transmission Crush Rings and Seat Belt Rose. Used Driver's Side Door Wiring from 928 International

The Bad - Known Issues:
- Central Lock not working. I suspect I have a broken wire at the Driver's Door
- Rear Hatch Motor cycles but does not open from the inside (cracked lock). Opens with key
- Scratches Front and Rear Bumpers
- Corrosion points on Rear Quarter Windows
- Driver's Side Interior Quarter Panel shrank with sun and needs to be replaced.
- No Engine Front Tray / Belly Guard
- Front Spoiler cracked

Any ideas of prices and should I have any of the issues repaired before selling?
Is $15 -$16K too much for this car?
Obviously I have much more than that in the car, but who is counting?

I am working on a battery issue (separate thread) and will post a proper F/S thread if decide to go that way, after I get that resolved, so I can have it washed and take some good pictures.

Thanks for the input everyone

depami

I'll store it for you. That way it can be run occasionally to minimize deterioration from none use.

NoVector

When I found out I was moving here, I had an 84 and the 93—and I could only ship one. A place in San Antonio was going to store the 84 (keep it on a battery tender, fire it up occasionally and drive it, etc.) for $100 a month; but for a 4 year period, it didn’t make sense as the storage would about equal the value of the car. You might be able to apply similar math, i.e., what’s the tipping point between selling the car and taking a loss or storing it for a couple years. Tuff call as it looks like you’ve already taken care of the big ticket items on your car. Personally, for 2 years, I'd store it. Longer than that, I'd cut bait. Good luck!

James Bailey

three / four years is a long time and stuff still deteriorates while parked....start a separate savings account and put in the monthly amount for storage insurance etc. so when and IF you return you already made up for any market appreciation in 928s

dr bob

What Jim said, plus decide now (crystal ball) how much you like the car now, vs what you will get to pay for another one brought to the condition yours is in now.

A carefully-stored car in the right climate will age little, but 'carefully stored' is tough and 'the right climate' can be expensive.

What's the market value of your car now, as you see it? $15k as you ask? Jim's questions: How much to store, register and insure it for the time you are gone? Then your crystal-ball estimate of what it would cost to buy 'your' car back in two years, and whether the car you buy will need recovery work anyway to really make it like the one your list. For a few $k, for sure I'd prep and store mine in the same situation. A lot more than that, and I'd probably sell it now, and look at other cars when I returned. Honestly, I'd probably be looking then at a larger spectrum of cars than beyond another 928. My car bleeds value yet absorbs money even while sitting. It's hard to justify keeping it even with 'subsidized' storage expense in the home garage, impossible with any financial rationality at all.

There's always the chance that our '89 cars will somehow rocket up in value relative to the rest of the car market, and our carefully-maintained examples will suddenly make the same financial sense as an early 60's NART Ferrari would. I'm not betting the farm on that though.

LT Texan

I've stored mine on several occasions. Never regretted it. I'd store it.

Five-8

Tough decision to make here, glad i don't have to make it. What has not been factored into the equations offered by the inimitable Mr Bailey and Dr Bob is that there IS an inherent cost saving in NOT driving it (if you decide to store it over the long term).

Fuel costs and regular maintenance on these cars is not insignificant, if the car is in storage for 4 years or more, none of these costs will be incurred, which goes some way into paying a portion of the insurance and storage and whatever else. Unless you are planning on replacing your normal "928" expenditure with something similar, wherever it is that you are heading to, perhaps storage costs are not as onerous as they might first appear.

If it was me, i don't know if i could sell my shark for a replacement(albeit at some future time and place), i would always be afraid that the replacement would never live up to the original...but i'm sentimental ...a little.

Cheers,

jej3

PM me with your location in Florida. I am in Jacksonville and St. Augustine.

soltino

Tough call....I would just state the obvious
; if in doubt, keep it.

tino

James Bailey

Contrary to what might seem to be the case....the stuff still goes bad sitting parked especially if not driven or exposed to high heat or humidity. While true you are not buying fuel it still needs oil changes coolant changes brake fluid changes....oh right in storage for 4 years..and when you do get back the gasoline is way bad...battery dead, switches and relays are ???? and the tires are probably dry rotted...

davek9

If you could find a "climate" friendly space, where others store their cars, drain gas, pull batt, fresh everything else, up on blocks, stated value Collector insurance for non registered "stored" car is available and relativity cheep for $15k coverage.
Expect issues when you bring it back to life, may need new ignition wires as an example moisture has a way of creeping in, mostly will depend of where you store it.

There are a few here that have found cars that sat in not so good surroundings and were resurrected.
It really depends on what you want to do and knowing that it won't be "turn key" when you come back.

Dave

danglerb

How much do you like "this one"?

Maybe you can find someone that would like a 4 year lease?

Five-8

Of course you guys are correct, i did not mean to suggest that having the car in storage is "cost neutral", deferred maintenance will still be required upon resurrection.
What i was driving at(poorly methinks), was that if Jose does in fact sell the car, with a view to replacing it with another 928 upon his return, the replacement may very well require maintenance upon purchase-maybe a case of money for the devil you know as opposed to the one you don't.(unless Jose wants to pony up for a fully sorted one).
As you guys suggest...maybe the nature of the storage facility is key in this equation.

Cheers,

mickster

Mine sat in a barn for 30 months with battery out and stabil added. The fuel and oil were okay but the anti-freeze wasn't...

New radiator, tranny rebuild. Lots of WYAITs!

dr bob

My car had been professionally prepared for storage by the PO for a couple years prior to my purchase. Still, it needed a lot of catch-up stuff done (belts-hoses-fluids), AC recharge, and new tires before it could be driven home safely (Denver to L.A.) when I bought it. It's stuff I would do anyway on any 'interesting' car purchase unless the recent service history was verifiably awesome. It still took a few months of spare-time cleaning and updating of aged rubber bits to make it truly reliable. So the OP might look at the existing age-related PM schedule, looking ahead the three to four years, and see how much it changes in that time. Wear-related PM goes to zero in storage except for coolant changes, and you can dodge that if you drain and dry the cooling system completely when you store. Purge with N2 if you want more comfort, but plan on needing a water pump soon after recovery. Brand new brake fluid, full reservoir and a plastic bag seal under the cap will hold the hydraulic rustcgremlins at bay until he comes back.

The storage protocol is not a whole lot different from a normal winter-storage regimen, except that the tank should be drained completely and the fuel system purged. Sta-Bil helps before ypou drain, but there's still a serious risk of varnish fouling the injectors, fuel pump and other wetted fuel system parts.

After all the warnings and such, most good cars store very well if in a climate-stable environment with a little ventilation and some way of preventing any condensation in or on the car while stored. Unload the suspension, sell the tires to someone who has some worn-out dogs to use to roll it if necessary, and plan on new when the car is recovered. The costs add up. But the value is knowing exactly what you started with, and exactly what's needed to get it back to where it was prior to storage.