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New 86 928 owner, intro + quick horn question

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Old 02-04-2014, 08:19 PM
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kombatrok
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Default New 86 928 owner, intro + quick horn question

Hello all,

I'm a former 944/951 owner, just picked up an 86 928S. The car is in good shape, 68,xxx mi, but has a few minor issues I need to get sorted out before the car will go through inspection. I'll post some pictures tomorrow.

The first is the horn, it doesn't work, fuse is good. Next things I'm going to check are pulling the steering wheel to check the contact there and pull the fender liner to check the horn itself. Any other things I should check on the horn electrical wise?

Next is the high beam/turn signal stalk. It is always on high beams even if the stalk is in the middle/off position. If I wiggle it a little bit forward or back the high beams turn off like they should be in that position. Anybody have an issue like that?

The other issue is the windshield washer, doesn't spray, I think I have a good handle on that. I'm going to pull the tank and take care of any rust issues then replace the pump and clear out the lines/nozzles and hope that does the trick.

Anyway, the car is a blast to drive, feels good to be back in a Porsche.

Thanks
Eddie
Old 02-04-2014, 09:06 PM
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Wisconsin Joe
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Welcome! You will find answers to just about any question you can come up with on here.

Personally, I have had a lot of success searching for stuff.

There's a relay in the horn circuit, it could be that. You can jumper the relay to see which side of it the problem lies. There's a thread on page one that covers it in pretty good detail.

Headlight/High Beam problem sounds like the multi-switch. It might be the contacts, it might be the switch mechanism itself. Some have had some success taking it apart and fixing it, but it's not really supposed to be taken apart.
Replacements are available from the "Usual Suspects."

And I will start:

THIS!!
Old 02-04-2014, 09:22 PM
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M. Requin
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thread...
Old 02-04-2014, 09:28 PM
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Gunmetal
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Needs

1988 s4 Auto ROW black/black West Australia
Old 02-04-2014, 10:13 PM
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kombatrok
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Ha yeah, I know.

The car has hardly been driven the past couple of years and the paint is decent but a little faded (its dirty and looks worse in the pictures that it actually is) very minor dash cracks and dingy carpet in the front, but otherwise the interior is in great shape.

Only pictures taken on the drive from New York to VA after picking up the car this Sunday.







Old 02-05-2014, 12:44 AM
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Avar928
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Nice interior and the engine bay looks pretty clean.
Old 02-05-2014, 10:52 AM
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Wisconsin Joe
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We don't care if the pics aren't "Studio Quality." We just want to see the car.
The seats look pretty good. No cracks or bolster wear that jumps out.

Engine looks good too.
Do you have records on when stuff was done?

Timing belt/water pump (TB/WP) are critical.
Old 02-05-2014, 11:18 AM
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joejoe
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Pull the horn pad off (straight toward you when in seat) The wire may have come off there. With the problems you describe you may need a new switch assembly (no washers, no high/low beam) With pad off ground the wire to see if need go further.
Old 02-05-2014, 05:06 PM
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kombatrok
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Originally Posted by joejoe
Pull the horn pad off (straight toward you when in seat) The wire may have come off there. With the problems you describe you may need a new switch assembly (no washers, no high/low beam) With pad off ground the wire to see if need go further.
Already had the horn pad off, problem isn't there. I'll dig into it a little more the next day I have time.

The high/low beam works as it should except when it is in the low beam position it flickers between high/low, seems like something is loose inside the switch and making contact when it shouldn't. I don't think the washers is a switch issue since the wipers work normally, it just doesn't spray. Intensive doesn't spray either.

I have a good amount of maintenance records. TB/WP were done about 4/5 years ago, but the car has been driven less than 2000 miles since then. I'll probably change them this summer just to be sure.

The tires need to be replaced as well, since they are cheap tires and about 6 years old, I never liked the stock 928S wheels so I'll be looking for something different at the same time.
Old 02-05-2014, 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Wisconsin Joe

Timing belt/water pump (TB/WP) are critical.
And fuel lines!
Mind your jump post- at the front of pass fender with the two red wires...should be a plastic insulator cap screwed on the post, if not you've got 12V battery mainline exposed there. Looks like something was attached above?
And make sure the locking clips are in place on the headlight actuator arms! And...ah, we'll start with a slow roll for now. But don't hit the odometer reset while rollling...ah, just hit the FAQs at the top of the forum.

Beautiful colors~
Dash looks nice too....are those S4 headlights?

Be sure to check the "Sharks in the Mountains" thread.

And post up the options of VIN if so inclined.
Always wondered about the code for mudflap, RR..
j/k, good sign that someone was concerned about chipping.

Moving along (er, up) the continuum of water cooled Porsches is not an infrequent theme here-- Welcome!

PS- I'd check/adjust the clamps and rubber connector on Pass side of the central "T" on the intake- looks like vac leak existing or ready to occur.
Old 02-05-2014, 05:26 PM
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kombatrok
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These are the option codes:

M28.44
A28.04
M018- Sport steering wheel with elevated hub
M139- Left heated seat
I158- Radio Monterey
M220- LSD
M319-Changed setup of fan
M340-Right heated seat
M418- Side moldings
M490- Hi-Fi sound system
M494- Additional Amp
M533- Alarm system
M570- Rear A/C
M593- ABS
M650- Sunroof

Not sure about the mudflaps... dealer installed maybe? Might pull them off, can't decide if I like them or not haha

rgr on the odometer, same issue on the 944s. I'm not sure about the headlights, they have chrome trim around them. How can I tell the difference between S4 lights and previous models?

The cap was just dangling on the + terminal, screwed back in place now. I'll check out the intake to ensure no vac leaks, but the car runs great. It's a little slower than my DD, but hopefully a few tweaks on down the line will fix that. I think with a modern automatic transmission these cars would be incredible.

Last edited by kombatrok; 02-05-2014 at 05:44 PM.
Old 02-05-2014, 07:35 PM
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SteveG
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That cap on the jump post also holds a cover for the 14 pin connector, black plastic cover. It is a $5 part and doesn't seal tightly anyway, but it will help preserve the connector from water and corrosion.

Nice car.
Old 02-05-2014, 08:05 PM
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Awesome, some uncommon options there!
Have you checked to see whether it is '86 v. '86.5?

Chrome rings are the stock/correct headlights. The S4 headlights are larger diameter are larger diameter and eliminate the ring, can be retrofitted with some minor modifications but most folks don't bother.

In terms of performance, you'll want to confirm trans fluid is at right level, that the cables are adjusted properly to allow WOT and kickdown, that the WOT switch is operating- it is a fairly frequent failure point, and that any vacuum leaks are tended to. There is an update to the B2 trans servo available, but not likely a front-burner concern. Also given the low miles- fuel filter and cleaning injectors or at a minimum checking plug color after some regular use will start to dial it in.

Also given the mileage- it is right about at the stock recommended timing belt service interval by the odometer, and the cost of that service results in a lot of owners to park the car...but in terms of time if the belt isn't changed it is waaay past adviseable service interval. What got me into that, going back to performance, if the belt is factory the timing ought to be on target but if it was changed we often find that the technician did not take the time to nail the cam timing and performance is gained by rectifying that.

Once the baseline is good, swing by liftbars.com and check out the s300 chips, or find the exhaustive thread on here.
Old 02-05-2014, 08:22 PM
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Hilton
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Cool, you're winning already.

Re headlight problem.. sounds like a stuck headling relay. I'd pull the relay, remove its cover and clean and lube the contacts (e.g. deoxit, or your favourite switch cleaner and some really fine-grit paper), and test again.

While you're at it, its worth having a run through all the ground points on the car and give them all a good clean. Also pull all the fuses and clean their tabs. Also pull all the other relays and clean the sockets too.

Giving the electric panel and grounds a good clean/inspection will help you down the track
Old 02-05-2014, 09:23 PM
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Alan
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Originally Posted by Hilton
Re headlight problem.. sounds like a stuck headling relay. I'd pull the relay, remove its cover and clean and lube the contacts (e.g. deoxit, or your favourite switch cleaner and some really fine-grit paper), and test again.
I think its unlikley to be the relay here, dismantling a very expensive relay that may be just fine would not be my first plan of attack here. If the switch feels odd it's most likely the switch. If you remove the relay you can test the Hi/Lo switch output at the relay socket on terminal 86.

Alan


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