Short Shift Kit
#1
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I have been looking into getting a short shift kit for a MY87 928S4 5-spd.
After doing a search, I came up with the following options...
Which option do you recommend, and why?
- Shorten existing shifter
- Replace with GTS shifter
- After market shifter
Thanks
After doing a search, I came up with the following options...
Which option do you recommend, and why?
- Shorten existing shifter
- Replace with GTS shifter
- After market shifter
Thanks
#2
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Why don't you try shortening your shifter first and see how you like it?
Why? It's by far the easiest and cheapest thing to try. If you like that and still hanker for a better feel, you haven't lost anything. You're free to let the merchandisers convince their approach is worth the extra cost.
BTW, you might want to make sure the components in your shift mechanism are all in good shape first. A new cup and a few odds end ends can dramatically improve the feel.
Why? It's by far the easiest and cheapest thing to try. If you like that and still hanker for a better feel, you haven't lost anything. You're free to let the merchandisers convince their approach is worth the extra cost.
BTW, you might want to make sure the components in your shift mechanism are all in good shape first. A new cup and a few odds end ends can dramatically improve the feel.
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Originally posted by vicente
How do you shorten an existing shifter? Just cutting it?
How do you shorten an existing shifter? Just cutting it?
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To shorten the shifter:
WARNING: Putting excessive pressure on the shifter can pull the linkage cup off of the ball on the front of the torque tube. It can also damage the support bearing located just forward of the shifter housing, and the torque tube has to come out to replace that one! (You can sometimes replace the plastic ring from the top.)
Pull the **** off - usually the hardest part of the operation. I have had to peel the leather up enough to split the rubber part-way up.
Put a slit in the bottom of a cardboard box and put the box over the lever to catch the flying abrasive and steel particles. The flying particles can really mess up your interior!
Use a high-speed abrasive disk to cut 1" - 1 1/2" off of the top of the lever. It is nice to shape the top to match what you cut off, but not absolutely necessary.
When you put the **** back on, don't hammer on the top of the **** - that will often knock the linkage off of the ball!
The new short-shift lever is not just shorter. The pivot points are also moved in order to shorten the shift throws even more. Most people like it. You may build up some arm muscle when it gets really cold ...
The GT shift lever is shorter, but has the same pivot points as the long lever.
WARNING: Putting excessive pressure on the shifter can pull the linkage cup off of the ball on the front of the torque tube. It can also damage the support bearing located just forward of the shifter housing, and the torque tube has to come out to replace that one! (You can sometimes replace the plastic ring from the top.)
Pull the **** off - usually the hardest part of the operation. I have had to peel the leather up enough to split the rubber part-way up.
Put a slit in the bottom of a cardboard box and put the box over the lever to catch the flying abrasive and steel particles. The flying particles can really mess up your interior!
Use a high-speed abrasive disk to cut 1" - 1 1/2" off of the top of the lever. It is nice to shape the top to match what you cut off, but not absolutely necessary.
When you put the **** back on, don't hammer on the top of the **** - that will often knock the linkage off of the ball!
The new short-shift lever is not just shorter. The pivot points are also moved in order to shorten the shift throws even more. Most people like it. You may build up some arm muscle when it gets really cold ...
The GT shift lever is shorter, but has the same pivot points as the long lever.
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i have the short shifter on my gt. it's not any shorter than the stock gt shifter but the throws are much shorter. takes a few days of driving to get it working smoothly but i feel that it's a big improvement.
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Tom,
How big a PITA was the short shifter to install? I just did the ball cup and I don't want to have to do that again, but it did make a big difference in the crispness of shifting. I would like to make the throw shorter........
How big a PITA was the short shifter to install? I just did the ball cup and I don't want to have to do that again, but it did make a big difference in the crispness of shifting. I would like to make the throw shorter........
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Fast,
Wally's got the easiest suggestion. Although, you'll probably need to cover the area you're working with, with some kind of drop cloth caus metel splinters are going to fly all over the place.
I removed my stock shift lever measured it against a GTS lever. The GTS shift lever is approx. 6 3/4 inches tall from the top of the top (barrel) or connector hole if you're looking at it sideways. I took mine and put it in a vice and dremelled off the the lever down to 6 inches, because I wanted it even shorter than a GTS. I then took a file and filed the end of it into the shape of the original end.(using the end of the original as a template)
Also, the lever gets wider toward the bottom and I had to file this down to allow for the placement of the **** later. (maybe about an inch or 2 down the sides-can't quite remember)
Getting it all back together is a little tricky. I put the 2 retaining springs in a vice along with 2 pieces of thin wire around each, then completely compressed each spring and twisted the wires to keep each spring compressed. Next, you've got to file the barrels flatt on 2 sides each so you can get the spring assemblies on to them. If you don't, the wire will interfere and there's not enough clearance (Clanrence) to slide them on.
Now, you're ready to assemble. Slide springs on barrels on side of lever. Grease up your white bushings and put them in the barrel holes. Grease up the 2 ends that go in the shift lever (coming from your shift rods). Hold your breath and press everything together. Hopefully at this point you can install your 2 clips and push them on with a pair of needle nose plyers. Now clip the wire that is compressing the springs and it should all tighten up real quick. Pull the pieces of wire out the best you can. Hard part done!
Now the rest is easy and fun. You need to trim down slightly the rubber gasket that seals it, because now its too long. I put mine in place with silicone calk around the base. Get your new **** and boot and stretch it around the base plate. (baseplate gives the boot its sqare look at bottom of the boot) Put a little grease on the lever and slide the new **** down on it.--You're done.
I went with the GTS shift boot in black for my 79. It's nice and thick and looks awesome. Throws are shorter and is more of a flick of the wrist then a throw of a lever. Huuuuuuuuuggggeeeee difference!!!!!!!
Dollar for dollar one of the best things I've done. If you want pics, I'll email to you. Good Luck!!
Wally's got the easiest suggestion. Although, you'll probably need to cover the area you're working with, with some kind of drop cloth caus metel splinters are going to fly all over the place.
I removed my stock shift lever measured it against a GTS lever. The GTS shift lever is approx. 6 3/4 inches tall from the top of the top (barrel) or connector hole if you're looking at it sideways. I took mine and put it in a vice and dremelled off the the lever down to 6 inches, because I wanted it even shorter than a GTS. I then took a file and filed the end of it into the shape of the original end.(using the end of the original as a template)
Also, the lever gets wider toward the bottom and I had to file this down to allow for the placement of the **** later. (maybe about an inch or 2 down the sides-can't quite remember)
Getting it all back together is a little tricky. I put the 2 retaining springs in a vice along with 2 pieces of thin wire around each, then completely compressed each spring and twisted the wires to keep each spring compressed. Next, you've got to file the barrels flatt on 2 sides each so you can get the spring assemblies on to them. If you don't, the wire will interfere and there's not enough clearance (Clanrence) to slide them on.
Now, you're ready to assemble. Slide springs on barrels on side of lever. Grease up your white bushings and put them in the barrel holes. Grease up the 2 ends that go in the shift lever (coming from your shift rods). Hold your breath and press everything together. Hopefully at this point you can install your 2 clips and push them on with a pair of needle nose plyers. Now clip the wire that is compressing the springs and it should all tighten up real quick. Pull the pieces of wire out the best you can. Hard part done!
Now the rest is easy and fun. You need to trim down slightly the rubber gasket that seals it, because now its too long. I put mine in place with silicone calk around the base. Get your new **** and boot and stretch it around the base plate. (baseplate gives the boot its sqare look at bottom of the boot) Put a little grease on the lever and slide the new **** down on it.--You're done.
I went with the GTS shift boot in black for my 79. It's nice and thick and looks awesome. Throws are shorter and is more of a flick of the wrist then a throw of a lever. Huuuuuuuuuggggeeeee difference!!!!!!!
Dollar for dollar one of the best things I've done. If you want pics, I'll email to you. Good Luck!!
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Jim
Already sent to Greg Nichols to post. Still trying to figger out this new forum and cant find your email address. Email me at cschreib@eesus.jnj.com and I'll reply with pics.
Already sent to Greg Nichols to post. Still trying to figger out this new forum and cant find your email address. Email me at cschreib@eesus.jnj.com and I'll reply with pics.
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I have had a short shifter on two cars and disliked it on both. Go to George Suennen's web site (he does all the devek days pics and norcal pics) and look at my write up of shorten the shifter on his mods section. I go through it in excruciating detail.
I also then suggest adding the gts shifter to the shorter handle once done. The gts shifter is much more ergonomic and this alleviates any noticeable increase in throw effort based on the shorter lever. I've also done this twice and much prefer it.
I also then suggest adding the gts shifter to the shorter handle once done. The gts shifter is much more ergonomic and this alleviates any noticeable increase in throw effort based on the shorter lever. I've also done this twice and much prefer it.
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I appreciate everyone's input. I think I'll go with Wally's suggestion, and see how it goes..
Chuck, It'll be great if you email me few pictures.. fast951@comcast.net
Thanks
Chuck, It'll be great if you email me few pictures.. fast951@comcast.net
Thanks