Quarter window install - to use sealant or not, thoughts?
#1
Quarter window install - to use sealant or not, thoughts?
WSM calls for sealant.
However, looking thru the threads I notice some folk here appear to install the rubber dry to the glass and the frame. That sounds like a great idea for later removal ease, but does it not leak this way?
For those that use sealant, what are you using? On both glass and frame?
Any thoughts appreciated!
However, looking thru the threads I notice some folk here appear to install the rubber dry to the glass and the frame. That sounds like a great idea for later removal ease, but does it not leak this way?
For those that use sealant, what are you using? On both glass and frame?
Any thoughts appreciated!
#5
I suggest to put a generous bead of Dow Corning 111 along the lower edge of the opening then fit the seal,
NOTE work it into the jamb this will prevent water from touching the metal and rusting it
NOTE work it into the jamb this will prevent water from touching the metal and rusting it
#6
I haven't used sealant either without any issue of leaking.
If you don't get the sealant right there will be a spot or two in the channels that trap moisture anyway. Odds are this will happen.
I prefer to put these in without any sealant. I'd rather have the ability to remove them every few years to check the channel for corrosion.
They can be removed and installed without a helper very easily once you've done it.
They all were installed from the factory with sealant and all seem to trap moisture and eventually rust. My car was garage kept it's entire life and when i removed the quarter windows for painting, I found bad corrosion and some perforation starting on both sides.
Just one man's opinion.
Good luck,-Matt
EDIT: Use silicone spray when installing windshields and glass. You don't want all that water in there from the start:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...1&s=automotive
Also you can add sealant after the glass is installed which works much better and is neater, if you have any leaks.
I've done a lot of older European windshields with this type of seal.
If you don't get the sealant right there will be a spot or two in the channels that trap moisture anyway. Odds are this will happen.
I prefer to put these in without any sealant. I'd rather have the ability to remove them every few years to check the channel for corrosion.
They can be removed and installed without a helper very easily once you've done it.
They all were installed from the factory with sealant and all seem to trap moisture and eventually rust. My car was garage kept it's entire life and when i removed the quarter windows for painting, I found bad corrosion and some perforation starting on both sides.
Just one man's opinion.
Good luck,-Matt
EDIT: Use silicone spray when installing windshields and glass. You don't want all that water in there from the start:http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/ima...1&s=automotive
Also you can add sealant after the glass is installed which works much better and is neater, if you have any leaks.
I've done a lot of older European windshields with this type of seal.
Last edited by The Fixer; 01-25-2014 at 12:57 PM.
#7
Thanks guys.
The old seal I removed was bonded and removing the window and seal wasn't that easy. Cleaning everything up, I can see how the sealant can contribute to leaks if it is not perfect and even.
I got a new seal from Roger so I'll install it without sealant. Can always seal it later if needed!
The old seal I removed was bonded and removing the window and seal wasn't that easy. Cleaning everything up, I can see how the sealant can contribute to leaks if it is not perfect and even.
I got a new seal from Roger so I'll install it without sealant. Can always seal it later if needed!
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#9
I do not use sealant and have not had an issue yet. I did however drill a "drain hole" at the lowest spot so water does not STAND in the channel. Once you drill the hole the edges will need to be coated with some paint so rust does not start.
Here is my YOUTUBE video on how I do it.
Although following MrMerlins advice would be great as well...a safe guard if you will. Certainly nothing WRONG with using sealant... just if you need to remove for some reason will be some extra work. I will say I do believe the factory did use sealant.
Here is my YOUTUBE video on how I do it.
Although following MrMerlins advice would be great as well...a safe guard if you will. Certainly nothing WRONG with using sealant... just if you need to remove for some reason will be some extra work. I will say I do believe the factory did use sealant.
#10
Nice work Dean^
This is Dow Corning 111, this isn't what i found in the channel when restoring the channel for paint. I found a very tough black urethane (guessing) sealant
D C 111 is simply Silicone lubricant, which i don't have a problem with using.
This is Dow Corning 111, this isn't what i found in the channel when restoring the channel for paint. I found a very tough black urethane (guessing) sealant
D C 111 is simply Silicone lubricant, which i don't have a problem with using.
#11
FWIW the WSM calls for a black urethane sealant.
NOTE the DC111 is used as a moisture barrier for the lower channel as water will sit in this channel.
drilling a hole isnt a bad idea but it must be treated to prevent future corrosion
NOTE the DC111 is used as a moisture barrier for the lower channel as water will sit in this channel.
drilling a hole isnt a bad idea but it must be treated to prevent future corrosion