Can't find anything in archives about this. the symptom I'm trying to solve is no flow washer nozzles. I now suspect it is the check valves but during R&R, I find there is a metal sleeve inside the top neck of tank where filler hose clamps on. It is 50% corroded the remains of which fall, where else, inside. I assume this sleeve is simply there to prevent the plastic neck from collapsing. A new tank is hard to find (a month on order and counting). I see a used one sans sleeve on ebay. It looks like seller has just removed (by dremel?) the sleeve. MY question is 1) if I'm careful when reapplying the clamp is the sleeve necessary, 2) when I removed the sensor at bottom of tank, the rubber sealing ring disintegrated, has anybody dealt with the sensor and fabricating o ring seals? TIA.

 

Hey Steve. I'm going through this right now. If your sleeve has rusted there's an excellent chance the resulting sludge in the tank has made its way all throughout the system, clogging all lines, check valves and sprayer nozzles. During your R&R, you probably found all of that. I can't think of a real good way to clean the hoses, so they should be replaced. If you don't get back to a clean system, you'll end up back where you started with clogging.

> 1) if I'm careful when reapplying the clamp is the sleeve necessary <

No, it should not be necessary. It's just a filler neck and is not holding back pressure where any sort of clamp tension would be required.

I removed the sleeve from my filler neck, but my neck was rather new and the plastic still soft and flexible. You may have to be much more careful on an older neck. I used a Dremel cutoff wheel to cut back the end of the neck plastic 1/4" so I could grab hold of the metal sleeve.

> 2) when I removed the sensor at bottom of tank, the rubber sealing ring disintegrated, has anybody dealt with the sensor and fabricating o ring seals? TIA. <

You could cut one out of rubber sheet very easily. I am thinking of doing this myself.

Dan Bise
Pasadena, CA
'83S
SOCAL928

 

Steve,

I have a used washer tank if you would like it. It is in PA, though, so it wouldn't ship until Saturday

Shawn

 

Shawn, thanks but I think I'll try removing the sleeve. I'll keep it in mind.

Re: O-ring: I found an o-ring fabrication kit at Harbor Freight. I'm going to try that.

 

Hello SteveG,

I have had this very same problem with my last 2 928's.

In both cases I used my Milwaukee reciprocating saw (Saws-all) with a med. length (3-4 inch) bi metal blade to cut the rusted metal tube on either side. I just inserted the blade into the filler neck and started to cut. Be sure to secure the reservoir to a workbench. Make careful cuts so as not to puncture the sides of the plastic filler neck (don't worry, they are thick), and the two pieces of metal will simply "fall out". No effort at all.

If you try to pull the rusted metal tube out with pliers or the like, you will bend and warp the plastic filler neck.

When you have it out you can simply re-attach the rubber hose to it with a new SS clamp. There is no danger of collapsing the plastic tube with the tightening pressure of the new clamp. Even with out the steal tube, it is quite strong.

It is near impossible to wipe clean the inside of the reservoir, however I did get quite good results by stuffing in a small washcloth and a liter or so of cleaning solvent (I used Castrol Super Clean). Then I sealed the holes and shaked it aggressively back and forth for 10 min or so, then rinsed with a hose. All the rust, as well as the rust stains were removed.

After you're done, don't forget to order a new washer cap from one of "the big 3"!

Best of luck,
Mike