Steering shaft clamp joint and horn ground
#1
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Steering shaft clamp joint and horn ground
I have an intermittent open circuit in my horn switch ground. Horns are functional when jumpered to ground at steering column plug connector. Slip ring is Ok and has minimal resistance. Lower end of steering shaft is made up tight.
Steering wheel has subtle play, which makes me believe that
A) upper U-joint is toast, OR
B) upper U-joint clamp joint is not tight.
C) Rag joint is somehow toasted, breaking ground path.
Can upper U-joint clamp be checked & tightened without dropping steering shaft and column? (it's in the firewall pocket beneath the brake booster)
(Is there no magical wrench set that works this)? See FWM extract attached.
Steering wheel has subtle play, which makes me believe that
A) upper U-joint is toast, OR
B) upper U-joint clamp joint is not tight.
C) Rag joint is somehow toasted, breaking ground path.
Can upper U-joint clamp be checked & tightened without dropping steering shaft and column? (it's in the firewall pocket beneath the brake booster)
(Is there no magical wrench set that works this)? See FWM extract attached.
Last edited by Tim968; 08-22-2015 at 07:01 PM.
#2
Team Owner
more that likely the steering column upper bearing is failing.
the old part can be cracked out,
and then carefully tap in the new part.
NOTE pull on the shaft nut with locking pliers to install the E clip.
this should restore the ground circuit.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...+shaft+bearing
the old part can be cracked out,
and then carefully tap in the new part.
NOTE pull on the shaft nut with locking pliers to install the E clip.
this should restore the ground circuit.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...+shaft+bearing
#3
Rennlist Member
I had this problem, it is definitely the upper bearing.
It will lighten up your steering a lot too when you have it replaced.
I had my mechanic replace it an he said it took him hours with a magnet to get all the ball bearing remains out of it.
Mine in other words exploded inside of the shaft.
It will lighten up your steering a lot too when you have it replaced.
I had my mechanic replace it an he said it took him hours with a magnet to get all the ball bearing remains out of it.
Mine in other words exploded inside of the shaft.
#4
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Thanks MrMerlin and TFO, I will plunge ahead and pull the column,
My steering wheel play is rotational, like a loose spline clamp, but the wheel is solid in radial play (so far, car has 75k km odometer). Grounding is through upper portion of steering column, then, via e-clip, thanks for enlightening me on that.
Best/Tim
My steering wheel play is rotational, like a loose spline clamp, but the wheel is solid in radial play (so far, car has 75k km odometer). Grounding is through upper portion of steering column, then, via e-clip, thanks for enlightening me on that.
Best/Tim
#6
Burning Brakes
Hardest part was pulling the shaft up to get the clip in. Since I had a new sleeve, I cut out a section of the old sleeve to sort of use it as a puller. Slide it down so the flanged end butts up with the new collar, put the nut on and tighten a few turns until everything lines up and then pop the c-clip on through the notched out area.
#7
Team Owner
for installation pictures of the E clip see the link provided. in post 2
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#8
Rennlist Member
My horn went US recently, thought I fixed it once, failed again soon after. No bearing issue, but the brass strip wiping on the wheel hub contact was riding up onto the hub, off the contact ring. I snipped some metal (1-2mm)off the outside of the curve of the brass, and this seems to have fixed it. The problem may be related to the way the wheel hub leather covering is run onto the bottom of the hub - I have a spacer under the hub to stop it running on the pod face underneath.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k.
#9
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How difficult is it to remove the lower steering shaft U-joint?
I have removed both pinchbolts, drenched in penetrating oil, soaked for a few days, gently tapped wedges into the joint gaps, but no fr*^gging way will the joint slide in either direction on the splines, and I am worried about ruining the rack input shaft seal/bearing. Is there a magical trick?
I have removed both pinchbolts, drenched in penetrating oil, soaked for a few days, gently tapped wedges into the joint gaps, but no fr*^gging way will the joint slide in either direction on the splines, and I am worried about ruining the rack input shaft seal/bearing. Is there a magical trick?
#10
Team Owner
Tim before you do any more work please post a picture of the upper bearing with the steering wheel removed. you may be missing parts,
Not sure why your working on the lower U joint.
Not sure why your working on the lower U joint.
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Thanks for advice Stan - will do.
My steering play is rotational slop (not axial or radial) and is audible when I wiggle the lower u-Joint ***'y manually. It seems to be in either rag joint or upper U-joint. Will photo steering shaft at wheel end and update the thread for a better path forward. Thx/T
My steering play is rotational slop (not axial or radial) and is audible when I wiggle the lower u-Joint ***'y manually. It seems to be in either rag joint or upper U-joint. Will photo steering shaft at wheel end and update the thread for a better path forward. Thx/T
#12
Team Owner
how much back and forth play would you be able to turn the steering wheel till it begins moving the wheels?
Did you check the black rubber connector on the shaft these sometimes fail?
Was the steering column ever removed or was the car in an accident?
Did you check the black rubber connector on the shaft these sometimes fail?
Was the steering column ever removed or was the car in an accident?
#13
Nordschleife Master
Out of interests, has anyone had either of the other steering shaft bearings die? From memory there are 3 separate bearings shown in PET at different positions along the shaft before the lower universal joint at the rack.
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Hi Stan;
Rotational play was about 1/8" on the circumference of the wheel. I got the lower splined U-joint off tonight, and with the steering wheel key-lock engaged, rotating the lower end of the steering shaft by hand, I can plainly feel and hear the rotational play, I believe, in either the upper U-joint or the spline clamp at the top of the intermediate shaft. I will photograph the wiring and will pull the column per pg 48-20 of the FWM. Figuring out the antitheft plug on the ignition sw will be a puzzle.
Update to follow; Thanks for your patient advice. Best/T
Rotational play was about 1/8" on the circumference of the wheel. I got the lower splined U-joint off tonight, and with the steering wheel key-lock engaged, rotating the lower end of the steering shaft by hand, I can plainly feel and hear the rotational play, I believe, in either the upper U-joint or the spline clamp at the top of the intermediate shaft. I will photograph the wiring and will pull the column per pg 48-20 of the FWM. Figuring out the antitheft plug on the ignition sw will be a puzzle.
Update to follow; Thanks for your patient advice. Best/T
#15
Team Owner
there have been a few reports of the U joint coupler failing,
and or the rubber isolator failing either of these can be replaced.
Please post pictures of the parts your working on,
it makes it easier for others to see what your working on
and or the rubber isolator failing either of these can be replaced.
Please post pictures of the parts your working on,
it makes it easier for others to see what your working on