Clutch Slave Cylinder question
#1
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
Clutch Slave Cylinder question
When I undo the two bolts that hold the clutch slave cylinder to the bellhousing, the rod is under pressure. I wants to push out. If I let it go, it will push out about 2" until the hard line hits the back of the block. I cant actually remove it, and move it out of the way because the rod is so long, and still jammed in the hole, and under pressure.
Is this correct?
Or is my slave rod too long? if so what length should it be?
Should the slave cylinder push out like that?
My clutch operates well but the engage/disengage position of the pedal is very high.
My theory is that the slave rod is too long (cylinder is like one shown in pic below, same part #) and that at rest it is slightly pushing against the arm and partially disengaging the clutch, hence the "high pedal".
I do not have any drag. The car does not move when in first gear with pedal to the floor( on level ground)
Car is an 1981 with 56K miles
Is this correct?
Or is my slave rod too long? if so what length should it be?
Should the slave cylinder push out like that?
My clutch operates well but the engage/disengage position of the pedal is very high.
My theory is that the slave rod is too long (cylinder is like one shown in pic below, same part #) and that at rest it is slightly pushing against the arm and partially disengaging the clutch, hence the "high pedal".
I do not have any drag. The car does not move when in first gear with pedal to the floor( on level ground)
Car is an 1981 with 56K miles
#2
Team Owner
your push rod and slave are probably OK,
and the info provided sounds like a normal condition including worn clutch discs.
To test if the slave is preloading the release arm,
install the slave ,
then see if you can grab the rod and push it into the slave after the slave is mated to the bell housing,
if it has some movement then its OK.
Pull the clutch out and inspect for worn linings and worn I plate
and the info provided sounds like a normal condition including worn clutch discs.
To test if the slave is preloading the release arm,
install the slave ,
then see if you can grab the rod and push it into the slave after the slave is mated to the bell housing,
if it has some movement then its OK.
Pull the clutch out and inspect for worn linings and worn I plate
#3
Nordschleife Master
Could have too much preload on the clutch master, to where the hole back to the reservoir isn't uncovering.
When its extended, are you able to push the rod on the slave in by hand? If you can't then check the clutch master's preload (and adjust the helper spring while you're in there - most have slipped out of adjustment and made the pedal heavier after 25-30 years).
When its extended, are you able to push the rod on the slave in by hand? If you can't then check the clutch master's preload (and adjust the helper spring while you're in there - most have slipped out of adjustment and made the pedal heavier after 25-30 years).
#4
Three Wheelin'
Thread Starter
I know that I can push in the rod when its removed. but I have not tried to push it in ALL the way. I only pushed it in far enough to re-install it. I can confirm that the rod did engage the divot on the clutch release arm.
I have to push pretty hard to do that, but it will go
I dont find the pedal overly hard...it does operate smooth, and it grabs good, but the disengage and engage position on pedal travel is quite high. ater about 1-2" depression on the pedal, its releasing. Car drives fine otherwise, its just harder to operate smooth with the high position, which is not my preference
I have to push pretty hard to do that, but it will go
I dont find the pedal overly hard...it does operate smooth, and it grabs good, but the disengage and engage position on pedal travel is quite high. ater about 1-2" depression on the pedal, its releasing. Car drives fine otherwise, its just harder to operate smooth with the high position, which is not my preference