Yet more questions
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Yet more questions
So I got my project 928 running. The engine runs good, but the warning light on the gauge cluster indicates that the belt tension is off.
The belt has less than 1K miles on it, the car came with a bunch of receipts from the PO, but it has been sitting - albeit garaged - since 2005.
I have removed the passenger side cover , turned the engine over and it looks perfectly fine.
Q1: Should I just go ahead and replace or just tension it?
Q2: Attached to the intake manifold in the rear is a 3 pin plug with nothing in it.
What is its purpose?
Q3: there are threads with nothing in them underneath the car, next to the tie rod linkage. Was a belly pan/ skid plate atatched there or do they have a different purpose?
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The belt has less than 1K miles on it, the car came with a bunch of receipts from the PO, but it has been sitting - albeit garaged - since 2005.
I have removed the passenger side cover , turned the engine over and it looks perfectly fine.
Q1: Should I just go ahead and replace or just tension it?
Q2: Attached to the intake manifold in the rear is a 3 pin plug with nothing in it.
What is its purpose?
Q3: there are threads with nothing in them underneath the car, next to the tie rod linkage. Was a belly pan/ skid plate atatched there or do they have a different purpose?
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
[IMG][/IMG]
#2
Based off the second picture of the intake, you have an S3 (85-86.5).
Q1. Check the tension on the belt. Re-tension to get it into spec, check tensioner if it has oil in it. If I were you, I'd upgrade to a PKTensioner and never worry about re-tensioning again.
Q2. That thing is some kind of diagnostic port or sensor that isn't really important.
Q1. Check the tension on the belt. Re-tension to get it into spec, check tensioner if it has oil in it. If I were you, I'd upgrade to a PKTensioner and never worry about re-tensioning again.
Q2. That thing is some kind of diagnostic port or sensor that isn't really important.
#4
Rennlist Member
In the third picture you appear to be missing 2 bolts. One from the cross member to the chassis. the hole at the left end of the steering boot above the tie rod, and the second one just above the first large diameter flange at the left end of the accordion section of the boot, which attached the plate under the steering rack to the cross member.
#5
Rennlist Member
I'm guessing your belt warning light is on b/c some part of the flexible wire or wand that connects to the tension piston or the wiring from it is missing. If this is so, it isn't grounded and the system is not functioning. There should be a ground wire that feeds from tensioner through the center cover to a ground brown wire.
#6
Rennlist Member
The belt is a bit too far forward on the gear.
I would absolutely do a timing belt / water pump job, carefully inspecting and confirming condition and part number of each piece.
Consult with Roger at 928's RUS regarding exactly what parts to use. At minimum tb, wp (new not rebuilt), new pivot bolt, new bushings for said bolt, probably rollers too.
I would absolutely do a timing belt / water pump job, carefully inspecting and confirming condition and part number of each piece.
Consult with Roger at 928's RUS regarding exactly what parts to use. At minimum tb, wp (new not rebuilt), new pivot bolt, new bushings for said bolt, probably rollers too.
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#8
Advanced
Thread Starter
The belt is a bit too far forward on the gear.
I would absolutely do a timing belt / water pump job, carefully inspecting and confirming condition and part number of each piece.
Consult with Roger at 928's RUS regarding exactly what parts to use. At minimum tb, wp (new not rebuilt), new pivot bolt, new bushings for said bolt, probably rollers too.
I would absolutely do a timing belt / water pump job, carefully inspecting and confirming condition and part number of each piece.
Consult with Roger at 928's RUS regarding exactly what parts to use. At minimum tb, wp (new not rebuilt), new pivot bolt, new bushings for said bolt, probably rollers too.
#9
Belt should be 2-3mm from edge of the gear I believe.
The last time my TB/WP was changed was about or over 15years ago at 50k+ miles. I just changed it last week. Not saying 8 years is good or bad, just saying it probably won't break just like that since others have lasted much longer. It's $36 for piece of mind of a new belt so may as well if you have any doubts whatsoever on condition.
Get a PKtensioner. Install is straight-forward easy and you don't have to rebuild the tensioner and fill it with oil and check for leaks and re-tension and all that snap.
Check your gears for wear. I changed all of mine (Cams, oil pump, crankshaft) but that was at almost 160k miles of wear. Shiny all around on the oil pump and crank gear.
Advice: Use smear of automotive lube and a slight smear of anti-seize on the shaft of the gears if you replace. Makes taking them off easier next time. All mine were a PITA to take off. Stupid rust on the shaft.
The last time my TB/WP was changed was about or over 15years ago at 50k+ miles. I just changed it last week. Not saying 8 years is good or bad, just saying it probably won't break just like that since others have lasted much longer. It's $36 for piece of mind of a new belt so may as well if you have any doubts whatsoever on condition.
Get a PKtensioner. Install is straight-forward easy and you don't have to rebuild the tensioner and fill it with oil and check for leaks and re-tension and all that snap.
Check your gears for wear. I changed all of mine (Cams, oil pump, crankshaft) but that was at almost 160k miles of wear. Shiny all around on the oil pump and crank gear.
Advice: Use smear of automotive lube and a slight smear of anti-seize on the shaft of the gears if you replace. Makes taking them off easier next time. All mine were a PITA to take off. Stupid rust on the shaft.
#10
Archive Gatekeeper
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Is that a factory o-riginal 28 year old rubber fuel feed line I see in the top edge of picture #1? Might want to R&R the fuel lines if they're all original.
#12
Advanced
Thread Starter
The belt is a bit too far forward on the gear.
I would absolutely do a timing belt / water pump job, carefully inspecting and confirming condition and part number of each piece.
Consult with Roger at 928's RUS regarding exactly what parts to use. At minimum tb, wp (new not rebuilt), new pivot bolt, new bushings for said bolt, probably rollers too.
I would absolutely do a timing belt / water pump job, carefully inspecting and confirming condition and part number of each piece.
Consult with Roger at 928's RUS regarding exactly what parts to use. At minimum tb, wp (new not rebuilt), new pivot bolt, new bushings for said bolt, probably rollers too.
Belt should be 2-3mm from edge of the gear I believe.
The last time my TB/WP was changed was about or over 15years ago at 50k+ miles. I just changed it last week. Not saying 8 years is good or bad, just saying it probably won't break just like that since others have lasted much longer. It's $36 for piece of mind of a new belt so may as well if you have any doubts whatsoever on condition.
Get a PKtensioner. Install is straight-forward easy and you don't have to rebuild the tensioner and fill it with oil and check for leaks and re-tension and all that snap.
Check your gears for wear. I changed all of mine (Cams, oil pump, crankshaft) but that was at almost 160k miles of wear. Shiny all around on the oil pump and crank gear.
Advice: Use smear of automotive lube and a slight smear of anti-seize on the shaft of the gears if you replace. Makes taking them off easier next time. All mine were a PITA to take off. Stupid rust on the shaft.
The last time my TB/WP was changed was about or over 15years ago at 50k+ miles. I just changed it last week. Not saying 8 years is good or bad, just saying it probably won't break just like that since others have lasted much longer. It's $36 for piece of mind of a new belt so may as well if you have any doubts whatsoever on condition.
Get a PKtensioner. Install is straight-forward easy and you don't have to rebuild the tensioner and fill it with oil and check for leaks and re-tension and all that snap.
Check your gears for wear. I changed all of mine (Cams, oil pump, crankshaft) but that was at almost 160k miles of wear. Shiny all around on the oil pump and crank gear.
Advice: Use smear of automotive lube and a slight smear of anti-seize on the shaft of the gears if you replace. Makes taking them off easier next time. All mine were a PITA to take off. Stupid rust on the shaft.
Also, will a generic belt tension gauge work here or do I really need the Porsche tool?
#13
Advanced
Thread Starter
Yes, the fuel lines are definitely on the to-do list. There are a few other things that it also needs to be roadworthy, all at due time. For now I`m happy that I got it running.
#14
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Thread Starter
#15
Three Wheelin'
No idea why those lower crossmember/steering rack bolts are missing, they're crucial suspension linkage bolts, in fact the one just in front of the sway bar clamp is part of many that secures the lower crossmember to the chassis. Without these there might be quite a bit of movement in the front suspension, throwing alignment angles out the window. They're fairly easy to get from a fasteners place, just find out in the PET parts catalogue the dimensions of those bolts, and replace them using antiseize and the proper torque. The one going into the chassis takes over 100 ft lbs so make sure the bolt is the proper grade for that torque (10.9 i think they need to be?). Then to be sure get the alignment checked, don't buy an alignment just ask a shop with an alignment rack to set it up on the lift so you can see what the current angles are and if they're all within specification, they shouldn't technically charge just to check alignment, but they might charge a small fee.
That 3 pin connector is just a diagnostic port intended for an RPM feedback signal, there is a rubber plug that covers it.
That 3 pin connector is just a diagnostic port intended for an RPM feedback signal, there is a rubber plug that covers it.