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How does it work: WUR + AC

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Old 10-21-2013, 03:55 PM
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txhokie4life
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Default How does it work: WUR + AC

Had a control pressure problem in my 82 Euro S.

adjusted the WUR and all was working reasonably well.

I plan to make the WUR adjustable at some point.

When I was doing the debug and adjustments -- my AC was out getting rebuilt.

Had that reinstalled last week.

Today went for a lunch errand and ran the AC for the first time while driving.

Idle was way too low.

I'm curious how the AC affects things -- I'm guessing there is some influence
on the WURs thermocoupler as the behavior was similar?

Also smelled a little rich when I got back to work.

Before I go off doing some experiments -- thought I'd check with the experts.

thanks,

Mike
Old 10-21-2013, 05:06 PM
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checkmate1996
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1) how did you test the WUR and the control pressures?

2) The AC is influenced by vacuum. That dohicky solenoid on the crossbar is suppose to increase the idle when the ac is on to compensate. Check for leaks or cracked hoses around that area.
Old 10-21-2013, 08:16 PM
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jpitman2
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AC has NO connection with the WUR at all. It sounds like the solenoid to lift idle when AC is on has failed to come in, or its hoses are not doing their job. Curious as to how you propose to make the WUR adjustable - fitting a bolt to bimetallic strip post can give you some adjustment of the cold start behaviour - ie how low the cold control may get , but it WONT give you any control over the main hot control figure. Some have adjusted through the base allen head bolt, but this nullifies ant atmospheric pressure compensation that may be there.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
Old 10-22-2013, 01:58 AM
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txhokie4life
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I was thinking of going threading the bimetalic strip post.

I used some fuel gauges to monitor the behavior -- noticed that my control pressure
was very high -- I had to tap down the bimetalic strip post.
Had to do it a second time a few days later -- so far it has been running well since.

I thought the AC might interact with the WUR (similar to the cold start idle adjust)
via the bimetalic as the behavior was similar to when it was not adjusted properly.

I'll lay money that something is amiss on the idle adjust.

Add some testing to my list of todos :-)

thanks folks,

Mike
Old 10-22-2013, 02:04 AM
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jpitman2
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The idle speed adjust is a big screw head (~ 1/2") just in front of the spider body, at an angle.
Moving the bimetallic strip post in while hot will only correct the pressure at that temperature - it will also alter it at other temps, and may not be correct then. The post height interacts with the height of the cast iron main regulator body.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k
Old 10-22-2013, 11:35 PM
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tailpipe
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I have done the bi metallic stud drill and thread and it works very well.....
Old 10-23-2013, 12:14 AM
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txhokie4life
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Originally Posted by tailpipe
I have done the bi metallic stud drill and thread and it works very well.....
did you have to take it apart -- or can you just remove the WUR and do it with the stud in ?

M



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