long term storage: how often to run?
10-19-2013, 10:02 PM
#17
Look hard enough and you can find them in most major metropolitan areas. KC had one where they sold, displayed, and stored classics. As best I could tell (I was NOT in a position to be a customer at the time 
) the owners could specify whether they wanted their cars on display or not, and could specify a maintenance/drive schedule. They charged people $1 to come have a look at the ones on display; spent many an afternoon there from age 15-17.
Would love to do something like this when I retire. But, I plan to retire in BFE Missouri, not a lot of market up in those parts.
) the owners could specify whether they wanted their cars on display or not, and could specify a maintenance/drive schedule. They charged people $1 to come have a look at the ones on display; spent many an afternoon there from age 15-17.Would love to do something like this when I retire. But, I plan to retire in BFE Missouri, not a lot of market up in those parts.
As for the 928 storage, I'd personally say have them drive it once a month for 30mins. Not basing that off anything.
10-19-2013, 10:08 PM
#18
Nordschleife Master
If you're in Northern areas, this can't be done. Permanent snow cover till the thaw, and lots of salt.
10-19-2013, 10:20 PM
#19
Chronic Tool Dropper
Lifetime Rennlist
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Lifetime Rennlist
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I have a few classic/vintage race engines pickled and bagged for longer-term storage, but three years doesn't quite qualify for that treatment. The engines are drained and filled to the brim with kerosene, including the combustion chambers. Plugs go in finger tight. The whole engine is sprayed with CRC marine protectant, and then everything is bagged with a few big (five-pound) bags of dessicant in the bag.
For your shorter-term storage, run the engine until it's hot and the fuel system is empty. Drain and replace the oil with new. Don't run the engine again until you get back from your trip. Spray oil into or fog the cylinders with marine protectant, plugs go back in finger-tight. Pull the fuel pump and ignition fuses and store them safely. Spray the intake manifold inside with marine preservative, and disconnect the throttle cable at the quadrant so it won't be opened accidentally.
Drain the cooling system, flush with water completely, drain completely, let it dry out while the engine is still warm, then close it all up. I would fog the engine externals with the marine preservative.
Flush the brake system with new dry fluid before storing.
There isn't much to do to the auto trans that will help it during storage.
The car needs to be supported off the tires, with suspension unloaded but not all the way out on the shocks. If the current tires are more than a year old, sell/trade them for something worn out now. Yours will be too old to drive on when you get back. Once the car is supported, spray more marine preservative on the shock rods so they don't corrode in storage.
The battery comes out and is donated/sold/whatever. Put preservative (Vaseline will do) on battery connections, starter connections, etc.
Interior of the car depends so much on what the storage environment is really like. Dry, and warm enough to avoid condensing moisture are key. It is imperative that you keep animals and insects from getting inside and making a home. Many recommend using mothballs in a bag hanging from the inside mirror. Put them in the air cleaner housing on top of the filter, in mesh bags at the front and rear of the V under the intake, in the floor in front of the radiator, and anywhere else where they might look for a homestead. Steel wool to pack the tailpipe too.
Wax or silicone the doorjambs where the seals set so they don't stick.
Put a cover on the car to protect it from dust and sunlight, a breathable cover that won't hold condensing moisture wherever it's stored.
---
When you get back, recovery is the reverse of storage. New battery and tires. Put new coolant in the system, with a new reservoir cap. Pull the plugs, and rotate the engine by hand a few revolutions to clear any oil from the cylinders. Put a little fresh fuel in the tank, fuel pump fuse, and run the fuel pumps with a jumper at the relay socket. Drain that fuel, and install a new filter. Put the fuses back in, fresh fuel to run. Remove all the mothballs and let the car air out. Grab the steel wool from the exhaust. Crank the engine on the starter with the plugs still out, to circulate oil before you start it. Put towels over the cam covers to catch the cylinder spray. Plugs then go back in. Ignition fuse goes back in. Fresh fuel. Visual check, then start it up. Listen for noise, look for leaks, etc.
For your shorter-term storage, run the engine until it's hot and the fuel system is empty. Drain and replace the oil with new. Don't run the engine again until you get back from your trip. Spray oil into or fog the cylinders with marine protectant, plugs go back in finger-tight. Pull the fuel pump and ignition fuses and store them safely. Spray the intake manifold inside with marine preservative, and disconnect the throttle cable at the quadrant so it won't be opened accidentally.
Drain the cooling system, flush with water completely, drain completely, let it dry out while the engine is still warm, then close it all up. I would fog the engine externals with the marine preservative.
Flush the brake system with new dry fluid before storing.
There isn't much to do to the auto trans that will help it during storage.
The car needs to be supported off the tires, with suspension unloaded but not all the way out on the shocks. If the current tires are more than a year old, sell/trade them for something worn out now. Yours will be too old to drive on when you get back. Once the car is supported, spray more marine preservative on the shock rods so they don't corrode in storage.
The battery comes out and is donated/sold/whatever. Put preservative (Vaseline will do) on battery connections, starter connections, etc.
Interior of the car depends so much on what the storage environment is really like. Dry, and warm enough to avoid condensing moisture are key. It is imperative that you keep animals and insects from getting inside and making a home. Many recommend using mothballs in a bag hanging from the inside mirror. Put them in the air cleaner housing on top of the filter, in mesh bags at the front and rear of the V under the intake, in the floor in front of the radiator, and anywhere else where they might look for a homestead. Steel wool to pack the tailpipe too.
Wax or silicone the doorjambs where the seals set so they don't stick.
Put a cover on the car to protect it from dust and sunlight, a breathable cover that won't hold condensing moisture wherever it's stored.
---
When you get back, recovery is the reverse of storage. New battery and tires. Put new coolant in the system, with a new reservoir cap. Pull the plugs, and rotate the engine by hand a few revolutions to clear any oil from the cylinders. Put a little fresh fuel in the tank, fuel pump fuse, and run the fuel pumps with a jumper at the relay socket. Drain that fuel, and install a new filter. Put the fuses back in, fresh fuel to run. Remove all the mothballs and let the car air out. Grab the steel wool from the exhaust. Crank the engine on the starter with the plugs still out, to circulate oil before you start it. Put towels over the cam covers to catch the cylinder spray. Plugs then go back in. Ignition fuse goes back in. Fresh fuel. Visual check, then start it up. Listen for noise, look for leaks, etc.
10-19-2013, 10:39 PM
#21
Nordschleife Master
Add: Since I run 60/40 water to coolant, I drain a fair amount and add straight coolant to lower the freezing point of the fluid in the system. We have periods here where it does not get above zero for many days at a time and will be in the negative 10's to 20's each night. My garage is attached, but not heated. I do not want crystallization to occur.
10-19-2013, 10:52 PM
#22
I will be referring to this thread when winter comes here.
We don't get too bad on the East Coast come winter, lately it has been rather mild but that could easily change.
It's not exactly best to just start her up and let her run for 15mins every week is it? Did that last winter. May just do the hibernation instead.
We don't get too bad on the East Coast come winter, lately it has been rather mild but that could easily change.
It's not exactly best to just start her up and let her run for 15mins every week is it? Did that last winter. May just do the hibernation instead.
10-19-2013, 11:03 PM
#23
Nordschleife Master
I will be referring to this thread when winter comes here.
We don't get too bad on the East Coast come winter, lately it has been rather mild but that could easily change.
It's not exactly best to just start her up and let her run for 15mins every week is it? Did that last winter. May just do the hibernation instead.
We don't get too bad on the East Coast come winter, lately it has been rather mild but that could easily change.
It's not exactly best to just start her up and let her run for 15mins every week is it? Did that last winter. May just do the hibernation instead.
