AirtekHVAC

Yea, what he said^^^^^

Rich9928p

My '79 also sat for 11 years, had to replace two fuel pumps, fuel accumulator, had WUR rebuilt and fuel distributor rebuilt, and all injectors cleaned .... replaced two injectors after they wouldn't clean enough.

Sitting is very bad for CIS, 11 years is death.

Rich

Guy

I think I have two issues remaining. One is vacuum leaks and the other is dirty injectors. I already did pumps, accumulator, filter etc. My pressure holds for days so that's a good sign. I want to get those items sorted before hooking the gauges up and setting up the CIS system.

docmirror

Good low tech way to set CIS is with something called a "Colortune" by Gunson. Get them off ebay for a few bucks. Once you get all the injectors from Roger, put them in and then run some Ventilsauber or other kind of injector cleaner through the system for a while. Then, fix your vac as you said, and put the Colortune in one of the interior cylinders. Follow the instructions on the box, and you'll have your F/A ratio spot on. I try to work from lean to rich, so I go Left is Lean on the A/F screw until it stumbles and pops. Then keep the RPM about 2000 and go Right for Rich very slowly on the adjustment. When you get the nice blue-white flame showing that's perfect.

Guy

Thanks to all for the advice and help!

I was able to clear a small blockage that reoccurred on the WUR screen and got the car running very smoothly was actually able to back it in and out of the garage on its own power!

BUT the victory was short lived. The car will now idle decent but won't take any revs whatsover.

I took some pressure readings and Warm pressure is 75 as is the control pressure. Ambient temp was 86 degrees and the WUR temp was around 120. The control pressure seems rather high

Plunger and flap move freely, no binding. WUR was completely disassembled and given an ACID bath to clean.

I am so close.........what do you guys think?

jpitman2

Follow the Watson process - with pump jumpered, crack open (with rags around, and extinguisher handy) the exit from the WUR - if control drops, the WUR is NOT the problem - move to the next joint down the line (towards the tank return). Check while open for fuel coming out of the open joint - if none or very little, the WUR is blocked, or badly out of adjustment/config.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

Guy

Sounds good, thanks! I am going to check cold control pressure in the AM and will do this as well. I did start in this direction early today and had no fuel coming out the discharge in the WUR but I really didn't give it much time.

Will post results tomorrow. thanks!

jpitman2

Nothing coming out the WUR outlet says its blocked...
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

Guy

Just an update, I do have good flow out of the WUR but not so sure I trust the CIS gauge as running the WUR with an open return line made no difference on the readings. Flow seems to be restricted with this gauge set. I tried to pick up a gauge set from Roger but he no longer carries them and everyone was out of stock. I need to trouble shoot the set I obtained. This gauge set uses quick connects with schrader valves that I believe are giving me some false readings.

I am convinced the WUR is good.

I decided to pull the FD for cleaning and possible rebuild. I read about someone cleaning the FD in boiling water. I may try this prior to breaking it open. Or at least pull the plunger for cleaning

jpitman2

I got my gauge set years ago from JCWhitney....NLA there now. Try Amazon:-
$103. You need a set with a open/close tap on the WUR side of the gauge.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

Guy

Thanks. My set had the proper fittings as well as the t fitting and valve. It just has restriction flow after the gauge so I need to trouble shoot that as it is giving me false control pressure.

LT Texan

If control pressure=system pressure, I don't see how it could be.

Would seem odd for your gauge set to be the problem (especially considering it is your car that's not operating correctly). It is hooked up correctly? Can you blow through it? Should be unrestricted, unless the valve is blocked. (In that case, the car should run MUCH worse - if at all - with the fuel pressure gauge connected.) Have you started and run your car with the gauge connected? Try that. If it won't run/runs worse with the gauge connected, maybe the gauge is defective.

Other than that, I'd take apart the WUR (especially the FPR inside) and give it a good cleaning (again?).

You can re-assemble the WUR without the FPR rod/spring and see if the control pressure drops to zero.

Maybe the spring/rod/lever assemble inside needs adjusting.

(I hate the WUR - you can work on it for weeks.)

Guy

Dan, yep, that's exactly what I did to lead me to believe that the WUR is not my issue. I did install the WUR without the springs and got the same gauge readings and virtually no flow. Reinstalled the hard lines and removed the gauge and had fuel flowing good. That is what led me to believe the gauges are restricted. I acid bathed the WUR again and got good flow with compressed air and cleaner running thru it. I will spend some time with the gauges figuring out that problem but the cars running is so inconsistent that I have to believe the FD is the culprit. All lines are clear, WUR is clear, accumulator filter and pumps all new. I have previously recovered much debris in the system.

LT Texan

Wanna borrow my set?

And acid bath and WUR in same sentence? Sounds harsh.

steve322s

I have a inexpensive set of gauges I bought and messed with for a day before realizing that the end was not allowing fuel to pass the shredder valve! You should be able to unscrew them it worked for me. Good luck