Almost ready
#16
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Wally..... Thanks for the heads up.... I did have the powdercoater plug all the threaded holes , so there is no coating on any or the threads.... but if I have a problem, now i'll know where to look.
#17
Nordschleife Master
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That depends...
Will the wire brushing remove the (very tough) powder coating to bare metal?
Is there a ground path from the cross-over to the block? That is, is there powder coating on the mating surfaces that will insulate the two surfaces?
Is there powder coating on the faces where the bolt heads touch that will insulate the surfaces?
Might not be as simple as it might seem...
Will the wire brushing remove the (very tough) powder coating to bare metal?
Is there a ground path from the cross-over to the block? That is, is there powder coating on the mating surfaces that will insulate the two surfaces?
Is there powder coating on the faces where the bolt heads touch that will insulate the surfaces?
Might not be as simple as it might seem...
Thanks.
#19
Nordschleife Master
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Not base to engine ground. Go jump post to a reliable engine ground and get that value. You then should have the same value from jump post to sensor base.
#20
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#21
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#23
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And Bill, if you don't have the black cover it is important that you get one. Water channels along the fender line from the hood seam. Without at least a cover there, you run the risk of some things getting wet that you really don't want to get wet.
#25
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I really don't understand how there ever would be continuity between the + jump post and engine ground. Am I missing something here ?
However there is continuity between the sensor base and engine ground (intake bolt), Doesn't this verify that my sensor base is grounded to the engine ?
#26
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There are a few ways to check the ground. Continuity is one. I would look to see if the potential difference is the same between battery voltage/known good ground to battery voltage/sensor ground. Either way.
#29
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#30
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Yep, Testors worked fine and held up for years.
I shot it with rattle can hi-temp clear coat after the paint cured.
I did the work with the emblem off the intake, then glued it on with JB Weld 2-part epoxy. Not sure if yours will come off without messing up your powder coat job.
I shot it with rattle can hi-temp clear coat after the paint cured.
I did the work with the emblem off the intake, then glued it on with JB Weld 2-part epoxy. Not sure if yours will come off without messing up your powder coat job.