LazerSquid

So my porsche has a blown head gasket on the drivers side of the engine, and while I've been waiting to take it to the shop (going in end of next week), I've been starting her up every morning, and letting her idle for a little bit just to keep everything from sitting for too long, move some oil around, you know the drill. So I started her up this morning, and the usual white smoke appeared like it does, and then disappeared after a few seconds like it does, so then I decide to give it a few little revs before I turn it off since I haven't heard the engine in so long (keep in mind the temp gauge is just barely off the bottom/resting bar) and I look back and see a little dark grey-black smoke coming out of the pipes, so I stop revving her up and let her idle, and it immediately goes away. A few more little blips on the gas and it does the same thing, each time going away. I remember that I had overfilled the oil just a little bit so I checked that, and sure enough it was well over the max bar. Also, when I changed my plugs I remember there being oil in the I take, so I'm sure it's just that, but I would still like some confirmation. Psi on all cylinders is 145-155 except for the middle two cylinders on the drivers side, that are 105 and 110. Here are some pictures;

















My other question, is after this happened I took a peak under the engine and found these little wires, and I'm wondering if anybody knows what they're for?



If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is

Hai gebissen

I wouldn't run a car with a known blown head gasket. You are potentially circulating coolant where you only want oil, and vice versa.

LazerSquid

I guess my thought was that I didn't want the coolant sitting in the cylinders, so I would run the car until it stopped smoking to get it out. Any thoughts on the oil smoke though? Just overfill overflowing through the intake?

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is

Hai gebissen

It sounds like you are getting it repaired sooner than later, so I'd personally not run it again until after the head gasket is replaced. Every time you run it you are just introducing more coolant where it shouldn't be (and probably oil too).

LazerSquid

So I shouldn't worry about the rings rusting up on me?

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is

Hai gebissen

If you are that worried about that, why don't you just turn the engine over by hand once in a while?

LazerSquid

Because it's alot easier to turn a key! :P

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is

Hai gebissen

Ok, so pull the fuel pump fuse...

LazerSquid

But then it's not really burning off the coolant it's just sort of moving it around? Right?

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is

Hai gebissen

But if you don't run the car and pressurize the cooling system, there really shouldn't be much if any new coolant added to the cylinders.


You could also just drain the cooling system. I assume you are having the car towed to the shop for the repairs...

Wisconsin Joe

Do you remember this advice?

https://rennlist.com/forums/10726448-post42.html

Drain the oil and coolant and DON"T try to run it anymore.

You aren't "preventing" damage. You are causing it.

Just out of curiosity, how many times and for how long have you run the motor since you were told not to start it again?

LazerSquid

Yes car is being towed to repairs, but because of my living situation I have to move it quite frequently, and so I'd much prefer to keep the oil in the engine, however since I never have to heat it up at all, just run it enough to move from one spot to another, I don't think draining the coolant would be a problem. However it is necessary that it's movable without towing it until I have it towed to the mechanics.

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is

dr bob

Unless you want to replace the water pump (not really a bad idea), don't run the pump dry.

Unless you want to replace bottom-end bearings --!Don't Run The Engine With Coolant In The Oil!--
I spend time with some relatively high-dollar rotating machinery. Lubricating oil with water/coolant in it in just the part-per-million range risks bearing damage. Coolant is a poor lubricant. Film strength is, um, poor compared with oil.

Find a place to park it where you can push it in and out as necessary.

If you are seriously concerned about the rings rusting (I wouldn't be...), squirt some oil down the plug holes, rotate the engine --by hand-- one complete revolution. Put the plugs back in finger-tight. Remove the battery and take it immediately to your mechanic. He'll put it back in the car when it's safe to try and start the engine again.

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Please learn a lesson in patience. You've damaged the engine already by running it when it wasn't ready. Stop damaging the engine on purpose. Stop damaging the engine on purpose. Stop damaging the engine on purpose. Stop damaging the engine on purpose. Consider applying some of your medical learnings, starting with "Do No Harm".

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Most of us are more than willing to help someone with a 928-related problem. In this case a big part of the problem is an owner who can't follow the direct guidance given to him. Now, what can we do to help?

LazerSquid

Alright alright alright, battery Is disconnected. It should be at the mechanics by Tuesday or Wednesday, so I'll stop, I promise...

If it ain't broke, I'll fix it 'til it is

FiveElements

The oil dip stick shows... really over filled. It should be in a bit above the middle when cold. As it warms up, the oil will expand up a little more on the stick.