prescott

Had my 928 detailed after I bought it, but 6 months have gone by and it needs a fresh wax job.

What do you guys recommend? Mine is a 1988 S4 with the original red Indischrot paint. Shows some swirl marks all over the car and some faint whitening along the rain gutters on the top. Overall still looks great for a 25 year old car!

Landshark87

learned from an OCD detailer to use Meguiar's NXT synthetic wax - put it on, and let it stay on for 24 hours, then remove - it works like a sealant. its very easy use as it doesn't get all dry and chalky. also fairly cheap compared to some ridiculously expensive "boutique" or "professional" waxes.

i use 3M stuff, too - swirl mark remover and Imperial Hand Glaze before wax to make it look like a mirror.

hb253

I use One Grand Blitz carnauba wax and 3M Imperial Hand Glaze (which helps to fill in and hide swirl marks)..

A trick that works for me is to never, ever use circular motion when hand waxing or applying glaze. I always use a back and forth motion following the direction of air flow over the body.

Hugo

MainePorsche

I too have an 87 with the original Indischrot with only some minor swirls. Nothing hard, or abrasive gets applied. I use Nu Finish. Easy on. Easy off. It does what a wax is supposed to do, and does it well without risk.

Mongo

Meguiars Mirror Glaze Synthetic Sealer 2.0 followed by Meguiar's Gold Class. It really deepens the Guards Red paint.

hacker-pschorr

Always start with claying the entire car.
If any paint correction is needed I use Meguiars M105 on a medium buffing pad on a G110V2 D/A.
Follow that with Meguiars M205 on a buffing pad (do this after the clay if M105 isn't needed).
Final step Meguiars NXT Tech 2.0 and M16.

I use rotary buffer and not the D/A on newer vehicles. I'm too paranoid with the original paint on older cars.

Next spring I plan to buy a Rupes BigFood to replace my current D/A and orbital:
https://detailersdomain.com/Rupes-Bi...her_p_855.html

Rob Edwards

Griot's best of show wax, after Menzerna polish and 3M Imperial hand glaze. But you have to be really sparing with the wax or it is a colossal PITA to buff out.

protraxduner

Zaino nothing better. Of course clay, clean, prep is a must on any product.

mickster

Clay, Griots Compound (different 1-4 depending on paint on car), Best of show wax. I put 3 coats on. 1st coat on. 24 hours. 2nd coat on, 24 hours, 3rd coat on, 24 hours, then buff off with DA Orbital.

dr bob

The wax you use is a personal choice more than anything. The prep products and techniques make or break the final results. I haven't had a red Porsche in almost 40 years, so can't speak to color-specific issues. On my black car, I use the Mequiars NXT as the final coat. The car looks better after the prep steps, before the final sealant/protection coat, FWIW. I have boxes full of various super-wax and protection products that I've tried over the years, most of the bottles still close to full. The NXT lasts longer than 26, the previous favorite, so it's at the front of the drawer now.

You mention that you are already experiencing some chalking at the edges by the rain gutters. These are the areas of the roof most prone to "excess attention" from detailers with polishers, so use extreme caution with any abrasive polishes unless you can verify that you have adequate paint thickness remaining. Then use extreme caution anyway. PO of my car had it detailed way too regularly, and there is a very faint burn-through if you look at one b-pillar in just the right (wrong??) light.

Clay, when used correctly, removes surface deposits but doesn't actually touch the paint, so it's a great first step after stripping the old wax off. Beyond that, there are fifty recommendations from 50 owners, all different, as far as cleaners, polsihes, glazes, etc. There's a detailer's forum here on RL, a great place to browse for suggestions and techniques.

Tony

wax...??

I let the dirt and dust build up then take it through the local drive thru mechanical wash...then pay extra for the spray on wax application at the end...and drive off after the drier cycle has finished...

EMan 928

3M Imperial Hand glaze, followed by P21S.

Jim Devine

Harly wax - high quality & easy to use

http://www.harlywax.com/

auzivision

2X on Zaino, 1 because it does an amazing job and 2 is smells so good!

I go through the complete process one every year (or two lately) and the car always washes up good (using zaino car wash). Conviently packaged in a kit:
http://www.zainostore.com/Merchant2/...roduct_Count=2

Also use Griots products on my black VW (zaino looked streaky) and it does amazing work too:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/...ortby=ourPicks
OI especially like the no screw up compounds it comes with and if you shop online at Advanced Auto, they often (like every other week) have $50 off $100 online coupons which brings this down to $150.

Then I use Megair all in one cleaner wax on my wifes car and pickup truck. It does a pretty darn good job too. Truth be told, I don't think the product matters as much as being passionate about you work.

I wouldn't be surprised in real double blind tests if any perform that much better than the other... probably all within 95% of each other. So it's about like motor oil where opinions and marketing not facts make one better than another.

jeff spahn

Same here but Griots all the way up and down the line.