82 Euro S Running Rich
09-14-2013, 06:54 PM
#16
Yes.
Don't have to move anything. All you need is a long flat head screwdriver.
This appears to be a 928 throttle body. The large screw with the spring coiled around it in the right of the image is the idle adjustment screw. you should see it if you look straight down in between the oil fill/breather and the intake plenum.
Other Reference Images:
Don't have to move anything. All you need is a long flat head screwdriver.
This appears to be a 928 throttle body. The large screw with the spring coiled around it in the right of the image is the idle adjustment screw. you should see it if you look straight down in between the oil fill/breather and the intake plenum.
Other Reference Images:
09-18-2013, 10:02 PM
#17
Drifting
Thread Starter
Well I had a buddy that runs a CIS 911 come by who had the pressure gauges.
We tinkered around some -- so the car was already warm when we hooked up the gauges.
We found that the control pressure when warm was ~72psi from the fuel pump
and 62-65psi while running (warm/hot).
Reading online a few threads suggest that we should be ~42psi warm.
I had read about "adjusting" the WUR thermo-coupler by tapping on the "stud"
I was a little apprehensive, but I figured I had little to lose.
I gave it a little tap using a nut driver head and hammer. Nothing.
A couple more taps with a little more persuasion and the control pressures
dropped. I was able to get it into the 40's, and would watch it climb back up to low-mid 50's.
We immediately noticed the car behave different -- and I could swear she was running much less rich.
I repeated the tapping and watch it rise a few times. (not sure why it required multiple rounds of this)
We settled when the control pressure at hot stayed in the low-mid 40's.
We adjusted the CIS mixture adjustment to lean it out as well as adjusting the Idle control screw (which actually did something now).
I'll let the car cool off and take a look at cold pressures and behaviors tomorrow morning (or over the weekend if I get busy in the morning) -- But it seems we're making progress.
A few questions I have:
Why was the tapping required? -- is it a sign of an issue?
Why did it take multiple sets of tapping?
Is it likely to need future adjustments?
I'll also look to add a wego to observe driving AFRs.
thanks,
Mike
We tinkered around some -- so the car was already warm when we hooked up the gauges.
We found that the control pressure when warm was ~72psi from the fuel pump
and 62-65psi while running (warm/hot).
Reading online a few threads suggest that we should be ~42psi warm.
I had read about "adjusting" the WUR thermo-coupler by tapping on the "stud"
I was a little apprehensive, but I figured I had little to lose.
I gave it a little tap using a nut driver head and hammer. Nothing.
A couple more taps with a little more persuasion and the control pressures
dropped. I was able to get it into the 40's, and would watch it climb back up to low-mid 50's.
We immediately noticed the car behave different -- and I could swear she was running much less rich.
I repeated the tapping and watch it rise a few times. (not sure why it required multiple rounds of this)
We settled when the control pressure at hot stayed in the low-mid 40's.
We adjusted the CIS mixture adjustment to lean it out as well as adjusting the Idle control screw (which actually did something now).
I'll let the car cool off and take a look at cold pressures and behaviors tomorrow morning (or over the weekend if I get busy in the morning) -- But it seems we're making progress.
A few questions I have:
Why was the tapping required? -- is it a sign of an issue?
Why did it take multiple sets of tapping?
Is it likely to need future adjustments?
I'll also look to add a wego to observe driving AFRs.
thanks,
Mike