PKlutch useless? (Problem solved)
09-02-2013, 01:28 PM
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
PKlutch useless? (Problem solved)
And 8 minutes to install?! No phucking way. Mine took 2+ hours, mostly because I could not for the life of me get the bolt holes to line up. The first instruction should be remove driver's underdash shelf, btw.
Tools I used: 13mm short ratchet, 10mm ratcheting wrench, torque wrench, needle nose pliers (for the circle clip), a pick (to try to line up the holes), and a good flashlight.
My car has a relatively new GTS clutch, and the shop that installed it adjusted the clutch pedal when they did the job. But, I had the PKlutch already in hand, not yet installed. So I figured I'd give it a shot today.
Removing the existing plate and 13mm bolts was easy. I was following this http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15261 (post #14). My stock plate, however, had two barrel washers on the bolts, each about 1" long. These were too long to reuse, though, with the thicker PKlutch bracket. The bolts would never find purchase. So, I got everything back together sans barrels, only to find that the bolts were too long without those barrels; I went from 1 washer to 5. Could probably use 7 or 8.
Got everyone back together after a Herculean struggle to get the bolts to line up, and it's all for naught. The clutch pedal, fully depressed, doesn't get anywhere near the PKlutch stopper, even extended all the way out. I think I've figured out a possible cause... My car has no sound deadening material there anymore. The driver's floor mat, though, isn't thick enough to compensate, either.
The car drives fine; clutch disengages gears with no issue. Does this make any sense? Is it just the absence of sound deadening material?
Tools I used: 13mm short ratchet, 10mm ratcheting wrench, torque wrench, needle nose pliers (for the circle clip), a pick (to try to line up the holes), and a good flashlight.
My car has a relatively new GTS clutch, and the shop that installed it adjusted the clutch pedal when they did the job. But, I had the PKlutch already in hand, not yet installed. So I figured I'd give it a shot today.
Removing the existing plate and 13mm bolts was easy. I was following this http://reutterwerk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15261 (post #14). My stock plate, however, had two barrel washers on the bolts, each about 1" long. These were too long to reuse, though, with the thicker PKlutch bracket. The bolts would never find purchase. So, I got everything back together sans barrels, only to find that the bolts were too long without those barrels; I went from 1 washer to 5. Could probably use 7 or 8.
Got everyone back together after a Herculean struggle to get the bolts to line up, and it's all for naught. The clutch pedal, fully depressed, doesn't get anywhere near the PKlutch stopper, even extended all the way out. I think I've figured out a possible cause... My car has no sound deadening material there anymore. The driver's floor mat, though, isn't thick enough to compensate, either.
The car drives fine; clutch disengages gears with no issue. Does this make any sense? Is it just the absence of sound deadening material?
Last edited by Courtshark; 09-02-2013 at 05:17 PM.
09-02-2013, 01:48 PM
#2
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
You need the spacers. (Barrels.) 
They were missing in my '88. I had to make some from 1/4" pipe.
As installed in a GTS.
They were missing in my '88. I had to make some from 1/4" pipe.
As installed in a GTS.
09-02-2013, 01:52 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Behind the PKlutch? I think I'd need longer bolts, too. The barrels were on top of the stock plate, between the plate and the bolt heads, not behind the stock plate.
In that pic it looks flush on the firewall.
In that pic it looks flush on the firewall.
09-02-2013, 02:00 PM
#4
Inventor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
That's what the insulation should look like.
The spacers bring the plate up to just below the bellows.
The stock bolts are 8 x 40 mm, which is just enough. 45 or 50 would work fine.
With the insulation gone, you can put in a short bolt in one side to hold the master while you put the PKlutch, spacer, and long bolt in the other.
The spacers bring the plate up to just below the bellows.
The stock bolts are 8 x 40 mm, which is just enough. 45 or 50 would work fine.
With the insulation gone, you can put in a short bolt in one side to hold the master while you put the PKlutch, spacer, and long bolt in the other.
09-02-2013, 02:43 PM
#7
Rennlist Member
I found that the bolts were indeed a bit short if I just added the bracket. I wound up leaving the original plate off, as well as the washers, to get enough thread engagement.
The biggest problem is that the MC starts wandering around with both bolts removed, making reassembly difficult. Take a long 8mm bolt and cut the head off and use it as an assembly aid. Remove one bolt only and thread in the "headless" long bolt, then remove the second bolt. Use the long bolt as a "handle" for getting the first bolt in place (slipping the bracket over the end of the cut-off bolt), then remove it and do the second bolt.
All that said, later (S4+) MC's have a shortened travel which acts as a shortened clutch stop. Which makes an external clutch stop pretty useless I think, unless you happen to have a lot of excess travel for some reason. I fit mine with GB's cosmic clutch, which has a short travel.
Cheers, Jim
The biggest problem is that the MC starts wandering around with both bolts removed, making reassembly difficult. Take a long 8mm bolt and cut the head off and use it as an assembly aid. Remove one bolt only and thread in the "headless" long bolt, then remove the second bolt. Use the long bolt as a "handle" for getting the first bolt in place (slipping the bracket over the end of the cut-off bolt), then remove it and do the second bolt.
All that said, later (S4+) MC's have a shortened travel which acts as a shortened clutch stop. Which makes an external clutch stop pretty useless I think, unless you happen to have a lot of excess travel for some reason. I fit mine with GB's cosmic clutch, which has a short travel.
Cheers, Jim
Trending Topics
09-02-2013, 05:14 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Got it in using two 50mm bolts. For those in a similar boat, they're 8mm diameter, with a 1.25 thread. Had to go to 3 different Home Depots to find them. My local hardware store options suck.
Anyway, it works quite well. Not a huge difference for me since I think the pedal throw was already shorter than normal, but it's a little shorter.
Thanks all for the help.
Anyway, it works quite well. Not a huge difference for me since I think the pedal throw was already shorter than normal, but it's a little shorter.
Thanks all for the help.
09-02-2013, 06:05 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Some pics...
The "stock" set up. Unfortunately it seems like almost nothing on my car is factory anymore, whether I changed it or the PO did.
The "stock" set up. Unfortunately it seems like almost nothing on my car is factory anymore, whether I changed it or the PO did.
09-02-2013, 07:08 PM
#14
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
And use longer bolts. The instructions I found said nothing about the barrels either. Regardless, my footwell is all chewed up (prior ownership) so this isn't a total shock.
09-03-2013, 08:57 AM
#15
Three Wheelin'
Jeez, you're making me feel bad for suggesting this. My install took maybe 20 minutes including the parcel shelf removal??? Anyway, if you think it's not working try turning it out a bit till you can find the sweet spot. I didn't measure it but it feels like I reduced the pedal travel about an inch which made a huge difference for me as it allows more positive clutch action and therefore more positive shifts. Just ask anyone who's driven in the car with me