jeff spahn

Victor a do got the kit installed bit ran out of day to drive it

Radiator (brand new behr) started leaking before we started install. Appears o-ring on the blue drain screw is bad and I hadn't noticed the tiny drip. Also broke off the overflow nipple on top somehow. Ordered those from roger.
All we have to do tomorrow is install the wideband o2, boost gauge in ashtray and shark tune it. The I can drive home.
Victors kit is well thought out and it is pretty darn much plug and play.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9OVZIsitZ7M

Bob in Socal

X Pipe? RMB
Tell me more...

rgs944

What pulley did you go with?

jeff spahn

I went with the 80 pulley. So that is 6 psi

rgs944

6 psi is nothing to sneeze at in an S4, simple safe bolt on power and it will make a big noticable difference in a street car.

jeff spahn

Yes, it makes quite a difference!!!

Had a few things pop up that slowed us down. Broke the nipple (screw in type) off the side tank of my new behr radiator. Had to put a bolt with oring in there and plug hose. Radiator stopped leaking from drain on the way home. Never leaked from day one of install this year until I put it on the lift in Chicago. Leaking from the drain plug (blue plastic one). Perhaps oring is bad.

Drove home but had to go slow due to all the crap in the car.

A side effect of doing this install was we discovered I am running way too rich and we cant change the AFR. It runs at what I call a default setting on 12.57 on or off boost, sitting still idle or driving. Only change is when you let off the gas on the highway an it goes to 9.5 and won't change unless you give it gas.
We had to change the PEMS to 19# injectors to get it to run, won't run (too rich, like 7ish) if we put it on 36# injectors (what we installed).
I check the ohms at the temp II from the LH and EZK pins (per John Speake's instructions in another thread). Seeing 323 ohms at bot sets of pins checking. Grounds are kept clean and LH and EZK grounds show .1 and .3 ohms.

Running rich burns a sick amount of gas!

Anyone have an idea of why my AFR would be so rich?

Mrmerlin

maybe one of the dampers or the FPR is damaged from the boost and its leaking

SeanR

I told Victor when we were on the phone (wait, I talked to you too. derp) That you need to check out the Temp II connector. Pull that boot back and see the actual condition of that area. If it is defaulting rich like you said the car was when it was not boosted it is either this or the MAF. A FPR/Damper could also cause this but the symptoms would be different as in hard hot start, fuel smell in the vac lines.

I suppose I should ask how old the O2 sensor is also.

Ducman82

PICTURES!

jeff spahn

It has brand new wideband O2 sensor. That didn't fix the richness

jeff spahn

Mr Merlin. It was rich before the boost added. Now I can just quantify the richness

robot808

Jeff, is your new wideband sensor hooked up to the brain or is it just for the gauge? I mean did you add a wideband or replace the narrowband with it?

jcorenman

^^^ This first-- it is easy to check, and cross off the list.

Just look on Sharktuner's fuel-monitor page-- Coolant temp is shown there, from the Temp-II sensor. Also check idle and WOT indicators, and LH volts.

Aging O2-sensors (factory narrow-band) tend to run lean. If it has more than 60K miles just change it.
But if the sensor is working at all, then you can see Sharktuner's O2-adjust (also on Fuel-Mon page) working to maintain stoich (14.7:1) AFR, going up and down a few percent as it regulates fuel.
See the "ST2 Fuel Monitor Tour" video here (youtube)

If O2-adjust simply ramps to +20% (the max value) then something is wrong-- O2 sensor not working, or some other sensor reading not working, or map is way off (unlikely if you are starting from Victor's SC maps).

It won't, only tell you how rich it is. The factory O2-sensor is what tells the LH to add/subtract fuel to maintain the mixture around 14.7 AFR.

But from what you describe, I am very suspicious of the WBO2 reading. Normally then you lift the throttle and decelerate, the LH cuts off fuel (for emissions) and AFR will go to 19 or 22, whatever the max reading for the WBO2 controller is. You can verify this on Sharktuner, you will see injector pulsewidth go to zero in the logs or on the fuel-mon window. With no fuel, AFR cannot be 9:1.

So one possibility is that the WBO2 controller is not wired correctly. Most have two analog outputs, one for the wideband AFR reading and a second for a simulated-NBO2 signal, to connect to the ECU. If these were reversed, and NBO2-sim connected to the WBO2 gauge (and Sharktuner) then it would read 9.0 when lean (zero volts), and around 12 when rich (0.7-1.0v). Double-check the WBO2 connections. (That doesn't explain the other symptoms of richness, but would explain the 9.0 AFR reading on decleration).

Ahhh... What is it that James Bailey always says? Not the one about being 10K away from a 5K car, the other one...

Hold On

My question also. Mine has two sensors. narrowband to run the car and wideband to monitor what`s happening. I don't think replacing one with the other is gunna work.

jcorenman

Nope, the signals are very different. The factory narrowband (NBO2) is a simple "rich/lean" sensor that the LH uses to adjust fuel. "Rich" (AFR less than 14.7) is 0.7 to 1.0v output, "Lean" is around zero volts. It's a completely different sensor, with a different connector.

The wideband sensor measures a wide range of air/fuel, and requires a special controller which converts the AFR reading to an analog voltage. For the Innovate, 0 volts represents an AFR of 7.35 (very rich) and 5 volts represents 22.39 (very lean). Some others (e.g. Techedge) use a 9-to-19 AFR scale for 0-5 volts.

Most WBO2 controllers have two analog outputs, one configured as above for the analog WBO2 signal, and the other to simulate a NBO2 sensor-- useful if there is only one bung in the exhaust. Reversing those two signals does not work well at all.

Cheers, Jim