MainePorsche

Actually I keep a couple of small packets of KY just for MAS replacement (they're about the size of a ketchup packet). It's a hydrophillic water based lubricant, and leaves no residue.

I've even used some nylon suture on a small tear in a seam on my seat in a hard place to reach. Medical suture has a curved needle and made it easy.

Fnic99

Thanks for all the help. The bolt holding the ground was barely screwed in. It was sticking out about an inch. Torqued it down tight and took the car for a 30 minute drive, "Check Engine" light didn't turn on once. Idle was really smooth too. When I get a free moment I will work on cleaning the rest of the grounds.

Hopefully this is the cause of the temp sensor issues. Thanks every ody for the help.

Fnic99

Spoke too soon. Took the car for another spin and the problems started again. The "Check Engine" light came on and the car started stalling at every stop. This time I had the windows open and got a strong whiff of fuel. The car also starts idling really rough when the "Check Engine" light comes on. After a few minutes of driving, the light disappeared and the car drove totally normal again. Any more ideas?

Mrmerlin

uhh did you remove the ground wires from the rear of the V and clean the ends with an eraser before buttoning things up?
If your smelling fuel you better be sticking you head under the car to see if the cats are glowing,
if they are then shut it off as this can easily catch the car on fire, one of the ignitions is off,
or did you mess with the fuel lines and create a leak dont run the engine till gets figured out as you could catch fire

also see if your ignition monitoring relay has illuminated red or green,
if so then you have ignition issues or a temp sensor may be bad where they screw into the head under the EX manifolds.

Do a fire fly test remove the intake tubes and run the car at night looking for sparks jumping pay close attention to the coil wires.
NOTE if they are original it might be time to buy a new Beru set it comes with new coil wires,
NOTE the coil wires should not touch any part of their run

worf928

During this intake refresh, were the cam covers, intake, and water bridge, powder-coated? Painted?

In particular: was the water bridge coated or painted?

Also, I second the motion to check the temp-II sensor readings at the ECU connectors. Do this when the car is shop-cold and after the engine is warmed-up a bit. (There are instructions on how to do that check in the inspection guide that's downloadable from the link in my signature.)

Mrmerlin

check the temp II housing to a chassis ground it should be grounded

Fnic99

Stan:

I checked everything again and no fuel leak or smell from under the hood. The fuel smell lasted a few moments while the car sputtered and then went away. I also did the "Fire- Fly" test last night and didn't notice any sparks from under the hood.

I will check the Ignition Monitoring Relay when I get a free moment this week (got home really late tonight). Is it located in the passenger foot well with the other relays? Also, when you use the term "rear of the V", do you mean the two grounds mentioned above?

I looked through the service history and the Distributor Caps, Rotors, and Wires (Beru) were changed at 66,000 miles in Nov 2009 (currently 87,000 miles). No receipt for the coils.

Can a problem in the ignition system cause and error at the LH and EZH for the Temp sensor?

Thanks again for your advice.

Fnic99

Stan:

The threads for the Temp sensor were covered in tape (or some other substance). It was cleaned well to ensure a proper ground. Problems still continued after.

Frank

Fnic99

Worf:

Thanks for the advice. I printed the instructions and added it to the binder that I keep. Very clear instruction for the novice.

When the intake was refreshed, it was not powder coated or painted. I actually choose to leave as is to avoid problems. I don't think the PO did either, everything looks original (Flaking).