aaddpp

I replaced my rear drivers side flexible brake line that runs from the solid tubing to the caliper. Pretty simple job, despite the tight quarters. I moved onto the passenger side only to find the brake line nut is stuck to the solid tubing. I've tried wiggling it back and forth to generate some play, but the solid brake line is moving with it. I'm really concerned about damaging the solid line...it looks like a nightmare to replace. Some searching online shows PB Blaster to be a decent remedy for these, so I've been soaking throughout the day, and applied more to let it work in over night.

In the mean time, I wanted to check an see if anyone has any tips / tricks they've used to successfully dislodge one of these nuts on the 928.

Avar928

I actually took off the bracket that supports it to the brake line to get better access to it. They're a real pain especially when you loosen it enough to start weeping break fluid all over you while you work on it.

jon928se

After buggering about for about a day trying to undo one of them (All 4 on the GT were stuck) I bit the bullet and replaced both rears with new hard lines and tube nuts which took about 1 hour each to make and fit. (I did have the correct cunifer pipe, new tube nuts and a suitable pipe flaring tool to hand though. The Fronts I cut off the existing nuts and reflared the existing pipes with new tube nuts.

ammonman

You may have to remove the caliper end Banjo bolt and the retaining clip where the hose connects to the hard line so the entire hose can spin. Once you have the old hose of the hard line end you can apply a little heat to the frozen fitting. This should expand the metal and break the corrosion loose so you can get the flare spinning again.

Mike

Mrmerlin

what Mike said^^^
also consider cutting the flex line so you can fit a 17 MM box onto the flex line.

Put a wet rag behind the fitting then use a torch to heat the connection,
keep the heat away from the metal hard line just concentrate on the flex portion of the connection.
Heat from a Mapp gas torch should break the fitting loose,
and minimum force will be required to loosen the connection

AirtekHVAC

I just did this myself...on the drivers side front and rear, I cut the old line, removed the clip, and unscrewed the flex line, never heated or did anything to the rusted connection....screwed on the new flex line, and moved on.

Opelotus

What's a good way to prevent the nuts/lines from rusting again after you have heated them/broken them free?

MFranke

I don't know how you can safely do it without cutting the flex line, so you can twist/unscrew the remaining line ends.

ammonman

Missed that the OP was referring to a REAR caliper line. No banjo bolts on those so yes, cut the flex line as others have said.

Once the fitting will spin on the line I slip the fitting up the hard line a little, then apply some silver anti-seize paste to the affected area. After slipping the flare fitting back down the hard line over the anti-seize, carefully clean the excess off the end of the hard line paying close attention to the flare bubble on the end of the line. You want to make sure you don't contaminate your brake system with anti-seize residue.

Mike

dr bob

Two big bolts attach the caliper to the car. Remove those, and lift the pad wear sensors out. Then you can spin the whole caliper and soft line together as you unscrew from the frozen nut. Unless you are dead set on replacing the hose.

WallyP

Rust is hard and brittle. Sometimes, you can help the situation by using Vise-Grips to go around each flat on the nut, squeezing hard to flex it as much as possible. Just squeezing, not turning. Do it multiple times, keeping BP Blaster or acetone/ATF soaking in all the time.

aaddpp

Thank you so much for all the suggestions, and apologies for not being able to reply sooner. I left off with the nut and hard line soaking in a bath of penetrating fluid. I knew there was a good chance it was going to be a few days before I had an opportunity to get back to this project, and I'm hoping that a LT soak might loosen things up. If that doesn't work, I'll move onto the posted suggestions or possibly removing / spinning the caliper if I can instal without too much kink in the soft hose.

Jon, out of curiosity, what sort of tools do you need to create a new line.

jon928se

I used one of these

http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/pr...pe-flaring-kit

to do the bubble flares . Use a tube cutter to cut the pipe to length - do not use a hacksaw as the cut will never be straight.

aaddpp

Thanks. That tool is pretty reasonable price wise. Nice to know if the other options don't go so smoothly.

gcthree

Funny, I was dealing with exactly the same issue on my rear lines. PB Blaster did not work, and the steel line seemed soft enough that there was noticeable twist in it even when held with suitable pliers. Squeeze tighter to hold the line and you begin to crush the line.

I called Roger, and within a few days, he supplied with new lines for a very reasonable price. Given their role, it wasn't an area I felt you could scrimp-on. Easy to install and new lines look great!