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Block coolant plug

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Old 08-24-2013, 11:13 PM
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bills928
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Default Block coolant plug

Does any one have the part number for the crush washer for the 2 block drain plugs on a 16V ..... I looked through the PET and can't lay my eyes on it... I know its there, im just looking at the wrong place.
Old 08-25-2013, 12:18 AM
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SeanR
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If you are not buying from a vendor who can give you the right part, take the bolt to Autozone/lowes/anyplace that might have a copper or aluminum washer and see what fits. Install and be happy.
Old 08-25-2013, 12:37 AM
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gearz
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Originally Posted by bills928
Does any one have the part number for the crush washer for the 2 block drain plugs on a 16V ..... I looked through the PET and can't lay my eyes on it... I know its there, im just looking at the wrong place.
Looks like 900 123 055 30 Sealing Ring -(2) needed of course...
Be sure to use anti-seize on the bolts.
Old 08-25-2013, 12:40 AM
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bills928
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Originally Posted by gearz
Looks like 900 123 055 30 Sealing Ring -(2) needed of course...
Be sure to use anti-seize on the bolts.
Thanks Gearz.............
Old 08-25-2013, 01:08 AM
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when you tighten the block drain remember,
they are only drains so just past snug is how tight they should be
DO NOT use a torque wrench to tighten these plugs
Old 08-25-2013, 08:58 AM
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bills928
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Originally Posted by gearz
Looks like 900 123 055 30 Sealing Ring -(2) needed of course...
Be sure to use anti-seize on the bolts.
Originally Posted by Mrmerlin
when you tighten the block drain remember,
they are only drains so just past snug is how tight they should be
DO NOT use a torque wrench to tighten these plugs
Right.... When I was removing them they were very tight...Had to add a lenght of pipe for leverage. (probably because they were never removed before)....I will be sure to add anti seize and snug only ..........thanks
Old 08-25-2013, 10:19 AM
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Be sure to buy the 900 123 055 30 as it is a special size sealing washer - not cheap but it works as it should do.
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Old 08-25-2013, 03:29 PM
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dr bob
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I seldom disagree with Stan, but I'll take the chance now.

The aluminum washer expects a certain amount of pressure to seal to the bolt and the block, and anything that interferes with a smooth face on either will risk a leak. Meanwhile, the bolt itself has straight threads, not tapered 'pipe' threads, so we don't really expect the threads to do any sealing. The path of leakage is around the back (unloaded) side of the thread, in the gap between the back of the bolt thread and the front of the block thread. Coolant that passes all the way along through that path then comes up against the aluminum washer, sandwiched between the bolt and the block. Any scratches in the block, the bolt face or either side of the washer risks a path for coolant to escape.

I propose that folks use teflon pipe thread sealant paste on the threads, and on both faces of the washer. The paste fills the gap at the back of the bolt threads, and also fills any gaps from scratches or other imperfections on the block, bolt or washer surfaces. The Teflon paste is also a lubricant, so less torque is required on the bolt to get the same pressure on the washer. I guesti-calculated 12 lbs/ft for mine. For years now (annual coolant change times sixteen years of ownership, plus more than a few guest cars) I've been using and recommending this method. I used Hylomar for a while, then switched to the Teflon thread sealing paste, both with excellent results. No leaks, absolutely painless bolt removal for coolant changes, etc.

Little tube of the stuff, or a can with a brush (lifetime supply) is in the plumbing aisle at your favorite hardware or home center, like Home Depot or Lowes.

Relating my own experience, your results may vary, no animals were harmed, etc.



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