If it's not one thing it's another, need help!!!
08-24-2013, 09:32 PM
#1
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If it's not one thing it's another, need help!!!
Drained the coolant, putting the plug back and torquing to spec 25 ft/lbs (even rounded down) and this happened. 
Now what should I do
Now what should I do
08-24-2013, 09:42 PM
#3
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Oh ****!!!
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Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014
928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
Does it have the "Do It Yourself" manual transmission, or the superior "Fully Equipped by Porsche" Automatic Transmission?
George Layton March 2014928 Owners are ".....a secret sect of quietly assured Porsche pragmatists who in near anonymity appreciate the prodigious, easy going prowess of the 928."
08-24-2013, 09:57 PM
#7
Pro
When roger starts with an oh **** and not with a. We have that part in stock. Watch out
How far in the block are the threads. Maybe u can ground out the rest of it and have the plug flat on the block. Or get some apoxy and lots of Teflon tape. Or maybe thread a pipe with Teflon and a plug at the end.
How far in the block are the threads. Maybe u can ground out the rest of it and have the plug flat on the block. Or get some apoxy and lots of Teflon tape. Or maybe thread a pipe with Teflon and a plug at the end.
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08-24-2013, 10:01 PM
#8
Nordschleife Master
kaelix,
Have a look at this I found on Search.
Don't despair.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ant+drain+plug
Have a look at this I found on Search.
Don't despair.
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ant+drain+plug
08-24-2013, 10:18 PM
#10
Rennlist Member
I am so glad my block plugs came out easily, and I instaledl new ones. I would look at some kind of tapered thread solution.
Sorry, and good luck,
Dave
Sorry, and good luck,
Dave
08-24-2013, 10:29 PM
#12
Drifting
Dont freak out.
Heres what you do.
Get the liquid steel as suggested earlier
Go get two 1/4 to 1/8th bushing with 2 drain *****
Get your self a 1/4 pipe tap at the same time.
buff the plug that came out really shiny clean with a wire wheel.
What you are going to do is to coat the plug with never seize (copper cote) and put it back in the hole only up to the cracked part. Make sure the broke piece on the block is clean and has not never-seize on it. (I didn't say it would be easy)
Glue the broke piece in place with only enough liquid metal to cover the crack as you will ad more later. After 30 min try to remove the plug and hopefully the piece stays in place.
let sit for 30 min.
Take more liquid steel and build up all around the outside (all the way around the plug boss) and your done for a few hours.
next you get to clean the threads with the tap.
The Tap will have to go 3/4 of the way in (3/4 of an inch in) be careful the threads dont go that deep and the holes to small for the tap .... I filed it out
If the inner threads interfere then you have to go slow, removing the Tap and cleaning it every 1/4 to 1/8 of a turn.
This part took me 2 days, its a beyatch and no room to work
It would have been easier with the engine out and exhaust off.
but it can be done.
Go slow as not to break the Tap or crack the block drain hole, oh ya sorry
ok home stretch. Since you never want to have to do this twice.
You get to glue a pipe bushing in the plug hole. then you put a drain **** in the bushing which can be removed if needed.
Mine did not break like yours but pulled all the threads out which is when I discovered that the threads do not go deep enough. I used a file for about 12 hours to open up the hole as there is no room to drill. I had to do this so that the tap would go deeper.
Oh Ya! Good Luck!!!
Heres what you do.
Get the liquid steel as suggested earlier
Go get two 1/4 to 1/8th bushing with 2 drain *****
Get your self a 1/4 pipe tap at the same time.
buff the plug that came out really shiny clean with a wire wheel.
What you are going to do is to coat the plug with never seize (copper cote) and put it back in the hole only up to the cracked part. Make sure the broke piece on the block is clean and has not never-seize on it. (I didn't say it would be easy)
Glue the broke piece in place with only enough liquid metal to cover the crack as you will ad more later. After 30 min try to remove the plug and hopefully the piece stays in place.
let sit for 30 min.
Take more liquid steel and build up all around the outside (all the way around the plug boss) and your done for a few hours.
next you get to clean the threads with the tap.
The Tap will have to go 3/4 of the way in (3/4 of an inch in) be careful the threads dont go that deep and the holes to small for the tap .... I filed it out
If the inner threads interfere then you have to go slow, removing the Tap and cleaning it every 1/4 to 1/8 of a turn.
This part took me 2 days, its a beyatch and no room to work
It would have been easier with the engine out and exhaust off.
but it can be done.
Go slow as not to break the Tap or crack the block drain hole, oh ya sorry
ok home stretch. Since you never want to have to do this twice.
You get to glue a pipe bushing in the plug hole. then you put a drain **** in the bushing which can be removed if needed.
Mine did not break like yours but pulled all the threads out which is when I discovered that the threads do not go deep enough. I used a file for about 12 hours to open up the hole as there is no room to drill. I had to do this so that the tap would go deeper.
Oh Ya! Good Luck!!!
Last edited by 928mac; 08-24-2013 at 11:10 PM.
08-24-2013, 10:32 PM
#13
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These are new plugs here are some more pictures of how much of the thread is left and how deep the break is compared to the plug
After Rogers "Oh ****!!" i called Simon freaking out LOL he thinks we can fix this
MainePorsche's thread and everyone's suggestions helped me calm down in the meantime, looks like there's options.
After Rogers "Oh ****!!" i called Simon freaking out LOL he thinks we can fix this
MainePorsche's thread and everyone's suggestions helped me calm down in the meantime, looks like there's options.
08-24-2013, 10:39 PM
#14
Nordschleife Master
With these pics, definitely salvageable with the right materials and right prep. Walk away for a while. Come back, read, research, and develop your plan.
08-24-2013, 10:51 PM
#15
Race Car
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...classNum=50649
Just kidding....good luck, I feel fortunate I didn't run into this the first time I changed the coolant in my euro~~
You'll have some good pucker-factor bragging rights once you get it resolved.