First Post, searching for a 5-speed S4
08-20-2013 | 10:41 PM
#18
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
From: Parker, CO
Thanks for all the welcomes! I've got several I'm interested in. There's a nice one (if still available) in St. Augustine, FL. Is anyone out in that area? It's kinda between Daytona and Jacksonville if someone knows someone...
08-20-2013 | 11:42 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 813
Likes: 2
From: Denver, CO
Chuck, wonderful to see you post on the forum and a great first post at that! It sounds like you're doing your homework and in the process you'll learn a lot which will really help you avoid regrettable mistakes. I hope you can make it up to Emanuels on the 31st.
08-21-2013 | 09:32 AM
#20
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,902
Likes: 57
From: Shefford,Quebec
I am not 100% decided but I will probably sell my 1988 
I will take some pics tonight.
OPTION CODES
C02
018 Sports Steering Wheel with Elevated Hub -30mm
158 Radio, Blaupunkt Reno SQR 46
220 Locking Differential - 40% (87-89)
383 Sport Seat Left, Electrical Vertically Adjustable
387 Sport Seat Right, Electrical Vertically Adjustable
418 Side Protection Moldings
474 Shock Absorber (SPORTING) Front and Rear
481 Manual Transmission
494 Additional Amplifier
650 Electrical Sliding Roof
PAINT CODE
L38P Venice Blue Metallic
Modifications
Performance chip
X-Pipe
GT resonators
I will take some pics tonight.
OPTION CODES
C02
018 Sports Steering Wheel with Elevated Hub -30mm
158 Radio, Blaupunkt Reno SQR 46
220 Locking Differential - 40% (87-89)
383 Sport Seat Left, Electrical Vertically Adjustable
387 Sport Seat Right, Electrical Vertically Adjustable
418 Side Protection Moldings
474 Shock Absorber (SPORTING) Front and Rear
481 Manual Transmission
494 Additional Amplifier
650 Electrical Sliding Roof
PAINT CODE
L38P Venice Blue Metallic
Modifications
Performance chip
X-Pipe
GT resonators
08-21-2013 | 12:33 PM
#22
Rennlist Member
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 4,067
Likes: 323
From: Friday Harbor, WA
Nooooo!!! Luc, you would be crazy to sell that car. Do you have your eye on something else??
A 5-speed and LSD and sport seats is a terrific combo!
If Luc is indeed crazy then this is worth a serious look.
Here's another that Tom just posted:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-88s4-5sp.html
The problem with garage queens is that they tend to get neglected, sounds like that was the case here.
It will almost certainly need heads pulled and some valves replaced, also new TB and WP and a bunch of stuff checked.
The key question is whether the coolant was replaced regularly -- every couple of years or so. If that's OK then it could be a sweet car.
A 5-speed and LSD and sport seats is a terrific combo!
If Luc is indeed crazy then this is worth a serious look.
Here's another that Tom just posted:
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-88s4-5sp.html
The problem with garage queens is that they tend to get neglected, sounds like that was the case here.
It will almost certainly need heads pulled and some valves replaced, also new TB and WP and a bunch of stuff checked.
The key question is whether the coolant was replaced regularly -- every couple of years or so. If that's OK then it could be a sweet car.
08-21-2013 | 02:28 PM
#23
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 149
From: Boulder, CO
Hi Chuck,
I'm sure there is more wrong with the 1987 Murf car but thanks for being kind. The cold idle is really just an issue for 60 seconds and the ISV might be working OK, the idle is otherwise stable. I think the ISV can be serviced without intake removal maybe with the MAF out. Maybe it just needs a bigger initial gap.
The AC has a charge (70 psi with the key off) which has held for at least three years and I just found the compressor clutch wire disconnected. The AC blows cold if you hotwire the connector, I ran it for 10 minutes and got 55 degree air at the center vent (85 degree day.) I do not know if the disconnected compressor is intentional and have not tried hooking it back up again to the harness (and won't without testing the relay circuit first.) I generally put a fog lamp relay down by the AC compressor and power the the compressor with a fused wire off the jump post, then control that relay from the CC head to prevent burning the undersized relay in the CC head.
The Central Warning brain seems to be stuck on a coolant warning. Some have managed to repair these modules, I might look to replace it as it'd take hours to touch up the solder joints.
Generally the car needs a lot of TLC, more careful wiring of the add-ons and some validation of the major systems. Chuck seems like the right sort of buyer I'd be comfortable with (local, reasonably optimistic and not delusional.) However a smart buyer might want to find a better sorted out car. I have not officially put it up for sale as the pod is still out and I have some decisions to make regarding fixing stuff like the coolant warning. I do not really have time to mess with it but bogus warning lights really steam my clams and I want it fixed.
Cheers,
-Joel.
I'm sure there is more wrong with the 1987 Murf car but thanks for being kind. The cold idle is really just an issue for 60 seconds and the ISV might be working OK, the idle is otherwise stable. I think the ISV can be serviced without intake removal maybe with the MAF out. Maybe it just needs a bigger initial gap.
The AC has a charge (70 psi with the key off) which has held for at least three years and I just found the compressor clutch wire disconnected. The AC blows cold if you hotwire the connector, I ran it for 10 minutes and got 55 degree air at the center vent (85 degree day.) I do not know if the disconnected compressor is intentional and have not tried hooking it back up again to the harness (and won't without testing the relay circuit first.) I generally put a fog lamp relay down by the AC compressor and power the the compressor with a fused wire off the jump post, then control that relay from the CC head to prevent burning the undersized relay in the CC head.
The Central Warning brain seems to be stuck on a coolant warning. Some have managed to repair these modules, I might look to replace it as it'd take hours to touch up the solder joints.
Generally the car needs a lot of TLC, more careful wiring of the add-ons and some validation of the major systems. Chuck seems like the right sort of buyer I'd be comfortable with (local, reasonably optimistic and not delusional.) However a smart buyer might want to find a better sorted out car. I have not officially put it up for sale as the pod is still out and I have some decisions to make regarding fixing stuff like the coolant warning. I do not really have time to mess with it but bogus warning lights really steam my clams and I want it fixed.
Cheers,
-Joel.
Car #2
This is actually from a Rennlist member named Joel. He got the car after his brother died in 2009 and now has the title in hand. It's a 1987 S4 5-speed for $8,500 and has the major upside of already having a Murf stage 2 supercharger kit on it. The Venetian Blue paint has scrapes and scratches and such, but not to the point that you would be embarrassed to be seen in public. The interior however is pretty shot and the white (linen) interior doesn't really work for me. But it is pretty sound mechanically and I think the only major thing Joel was trying to sort was the AC not working and an unwillingness to idle when cold. I would plan to add an LSD right away as well as I expect this car would struggle to get the power down. This is probably my first choice at the moment.
Car #3
This is actually from a Rennlist member named Joel. He got the car after his brother died in 2009 and now has the title in hand. It's a 1987 S4 5-speed for $8,500 and has the major upside of already having a Murf stage 2 supercharger kit on it. The Venetian Blue paint has scrapes and scratches and such, but not to the point that you would be embarrassed to be seen in public. The interior however is pretty shot and the white (linen) interior doesn't really work for me. But it is pretty sound mechanically and I think the only major thing Joel was trying to sort was the AC not working and an unwillingness to idle when cold. I would plan to add an LSD right away as well as I expect this car would struggle to get the power down. This is probably my first choice at the moment.
Car #3
08-21-2013 | 09:35 PM
#25
Nordschleife Master
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 6,285
Likes: 56
From: ɹəpun uʍop 'ʎəupʎs
Work out your must-haves. Something like:
5-speed
interior/exterior color
digital dash
etc.
Then buy on cosmetic condition and be prepared to compromise on one of the above. Get as good paint/interior as you can find in your budget on the basis of these facts:
1. Sounds like you already have the tools and mechanical aptitude to fix mechanical issues
2. Pretty much every 928 you come across (with a very few exceptions, usually on rennlist) is going to need the same $5k worth of parts and a lot of your free time, to replace/do: complete timing belt system ($1.5k), intake hoses/gaskets/sensors ($2k), shocks ($1k) and then a spare $1.5k for "incidentals" (stuff like clutch parts, motor mounts, torque tube bearings, brake caliper seals, which all add up fast). If the car looks good, then after doing these jobs you're done with the "resto" bit and can move onto the "mod"
If you can find a cosmetically good 89 S4 5-speed, then I'd be all over it - different (shorter) rear axle ratio than the tall 87/88, digital dash diagnostics, brake calipers you can rebuild (seals for the early S4 calipers aren't available - they have a different piston style), engine monitoring system to prevent cat fires, better fuel hose arrangement than early S4's, electrical cruise control (early S4 are vacuum-based cruise) etc.
Stuff like LSD is nice, but you can fit it yourself (not too hard - its amazingly well documented in the workshop manuals), and I'd be more concerned about finding a car with decent cosmetics, as thats the part thats really expensive to change later.
Of course, if you can do your own bodywork, then the exterior cosmetics are a bit less of a factor, but be aware that the cost of repaint is high partly due to the cost of rubber seals and trim.
5-speed
interior/exterior color
digital dash
etc.
Then buy on cosmetic condition and be prepared to compromise on one of the above. Get as good paint/interior as you can find in your budget on the basis of these facts:
1. Sounds like you already have the tools and mechanical aptitude to fix mechanical issues
2. Pretty much every 928 you come across (with a very few exceptions, usually on rennlist) is going to need the same $5k worth of parts and a lot of your free time, to replace/do: complete timing belt system ($1.5k), intake hoses/gaskets/sensors ($2k), shocks ($1k) and then a spare $1.5k for "incidentals" (stuff like clutch parts, motor mounts, torque tube bearings, brake caliper seals, which all add up fast). If the car looks good, then after doing these jobs you're done with the "resto" bit and can move onto the "mod"
If you can find a cosmetically good 89 S4 5-speed, then I'd be all over it - different (shorter) rear axle ratio than the tall 87/88, digital dash diagnostics, brake calipers you can rebuild (seals for the early S4 calipers aren't available - they have a different piston style), engine monitoring system to prevent cat fires, better fuel hose arrangement than early S4's, electrical cruise control (early S4 are vacuum-based cruise) etc.
Stuff like LSD is nice, but you can fit it yourself (not too hard - its amazingly well documented in the workshop manuals), and I'd be more concerned about finding a car with decent cosmetics, as thats the part thats really expensive to change later.
Of course, if you can do your own bodywork, then the exterior cosmetics are a bit less of a factor, but be aware that the cost of repaint is high partly due to the cost of rubber seals and trim.
08-21-2013 | 09:50 PM
#26
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,902
Likes: 57
From: Shefford,Quebec
08-21-2013 | 09:57 PM
#27
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,902
Likes: 57
From: Shefford,Quebec
)
08-21-2013 | 10:22 PM
#28
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 6,598
Likes: 149
From: Boulder, CO
-Joel.
08-21-2013 | 10:36 PM
#30
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 273
Likes: 0
From: Parker, CO
Luc,
That's funny that yours is the same color (sames wheels too!) as the one Joel has. If nothing else it's great to see what Joel's car COULD be! Looks fantastic! I wasn't sure I would like that interior combination but it kinda works for me. It looks like the dash and pod could use recovering, but then most of them do. It would look nice to do it in blue leather to match the doors, or maybe tan to match the seats...
Thanks for the pictures! Let me know if you decide you are ready to part with it.
That's funny that yours is the same color (sames wheels too!) as the one Joel has. If nothing else it's great to see what Joel's car COULD be! Looks fantastic! I wasn't sure I would like that interior combination but it kinda works for me. It looks like the dash and pod could use recovering, but then most of them do. It would look nice to do it in blue leather to match the doors, or maybe tan to match the seats...
Thanks for the pictures! Let me know if you decide you are ready to part with it.