Yes, silver anti-seize for the return bolt.

 

Good job Craig.
Not always that easy to remove the CPS.
It took me a bit more time...

 

Yes, Bertrand. Merci.
Read your saga, as well as others to compile my method of cutting plastic off the bolt end, cutting the space between the bolt and sensor, allowing penetrant to adequately seep in to both. Honestly, it was almost easy. I was pleasantly surprised. Clearance of the wheel and its bracket is a must.

 

The only slight modification was for I had put in a Greg Brown fuel between the cooler and the FPR. It swings down off the cooler at a right angle toward the FPR. Mine was a little different in that Greg had to modify the line for my early MY 87. It has an adapter to the cooler into a right angle arm at the line. Because of this it sits a little lower, and would not allow for the sensor to come up and out. I had to loosen it a touch in order to rotate it slightly for the clearance.

 

I must say, a patient Search, and read, was worth it in this matter.

 

Just did this today due to intermittent problems and I Must say when all goes well it is good….

had to get some long bayonet forceps to grab and move wires around to get the connector up and accessible but went in slick as a whistle….just hope it starts . hahahahahaha NERVOUS LAUGH!!!!!!

 

Is the silver anti seize better than the copper…..I JUST used the copper anti seize on the bolt based on the porsche dealer in town reco's


just wondering cause the local parts store carried nickel and copper but no silver anti seize and I heard the silver was really aluminum oxide …???

any thoughts ????

 

Andy,
I had heard that the silver was better to use when going into the aluminum block (possible oxidation/reduction rxn between two unlike metals ?). I use copper on the other applications. Maybe one of the Masters will comment.
Craig

PS: Nice going with the CPS.

 

I remember reading in the WSM that one hold the torque better than the other.
I think the copper one is recommended when torque is applied. But would have to check again to confirm.

Edit: I found this in the WSM.

 

You haven't lived until trying to remove one for which the aluminum surrounding it has corroded white.

Driving one of those up from the bottom is the only viable solution.

 

On 4/6/09 I wrote to NeverSeez:
I am interested to know if there are any types of anti-seize that should not be used in some applications for reasons of galling or corrosion or otherwise.
Specifically, I am concerned about steel and aluminum alloy. For instance, steel bolts in an alloy engine block or alloy lug nuts and rims attached to steel wheel studs and rotor hats.

and got the answer below:

Your concerns are genuine. Not all anti-seize formulations are compatible with these types of applications. Actually there are only two that are currently available that would be recommended. In most cases anti-seize will contain nickel powder, which will gall aluminum & stainless threads if torqued to tight. Also, when you have dissimilar metals being joined together, you will get galvanic action which will seize the connection. So, to prevent these things from happening you should use one of these two formulations:
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/marine.htm
http://www.neverseezproducts.com/heavymetalfree.htm


Here are a few of threads with a bunch of info on various antiseizes.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ubricants.html
Experts: please school us on sealants, threadlockers, anti-seizes, and lubricants

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...itability.html
FYI - Anti-Seize Lubricant Suitability

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...lubricant.html
Wheel Nut Lubricant

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...consensus.html
Anti-seize - Aargh! No consensus.

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...-lugs-etc.html
Special antiseize for lugs etc...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...itability.html

COMPARISON OF ANTI-SEIZE TYPES
http://depacproducts.net/anti.html