Alan

Heat is created from resistance in the contacts - it is also related to the current level - but contact resistance should be low enough that this is not a major issue - current level supplied through the switch are not that high...

When you have significant heating in the contacts you also have a voltage drop to the equipment being powered by the switch and usually gradual contact damage occurring also due to the high localized heating at the contact surface.

Alan

ajricker

Thanks Alan, I think you may be right. I did change the X-relay out and that didn't solve the problem. But I didn't think about the ignition switch. I thought cleaning the grounds had solved the problem. But it cropped back up when I went for a drive latter last night. How much of a job is that? Not as bad as swapping the engine I hope ;D . Is there a writeup for it?

ajricker

Am I correct in assuming the dash pod needs to be removed to replace the switch? I pulled the cover plate on the bottom of the pod and there's not much room in there.

OTR18WHEELER

I also had a 'stop lamp' warning light issue that would not cancel when reset. I found the problem, It was a license plate light. one lamp socket was rusty and corroded. I cleaned the corrosion and replaced both bulbs. That solved my stop lamp issue.

MainePorsche

Art,
Glad you're on the right track now.

WallyP

The electrical part of the ignition switch unplugs from the lock portion, and can be changed by reaching under...

vsalvato

ajricker, I had exactly the same problem on my S4 MY 88; I did spend months trying to understand the root cause and finally it came out being the ignition key switch. When warn-off it tends to go "lose" and does not work as it should. Just get the whole ignition switch replaced (it's fairly inexpensive, approx 50 us$) and you should be OK! Good luck

ajricker

Switch is ordered. We'll see what happens. I'll post results when it's installed.

ajricker

I'm doing my research and getting ready to replace the switch when it arrives. Can someone confirm whether the dash pod needs to be removed to replace the switch? I've done a search but didn't find anything on the R&R. Plenty of people talk about doing it. I just haven't found a write up on the procedure.
From what I've learned, the switch is attached to the lock assembly with two screws that come in from the back? Mine has a metal clip that hooks over the bulges in the lock housing and goes behind the switch. It wouldn't kill me to remove the Pod. I do need to replace a bulb or two. But if I don't need to...
Any advice on this procedure would be appreciated. Thanks

ajricker

Bump

ajricker

Just an update. I finally got around to replacing the ignition switch today.
I did end up pulling the dash-pod to access the switch. Removing those two screws that attach it to the lock are a PIA.
Got everything put back together and it appears to have resolved my problems. Time will tell.
Thanks for the advice guys.

extanker

thanks for the report back

MainePorsche

Good job, Art.

ajricker

Thanks Craig. We'll see how it go's.

ajricker

I took the car out last evening and everything worked as it should. No break light issues. All warning lights came on and went off at start-up as they should.
On the way home from dinner I needed to turn on the headlights and they went up and came on as they should. But no dash illumination. Head unit dims as it should. So I know it must just be in the pod somewhere. The only connectors that I disconnected where the signal switch when I removed it to move the pod forward enough to replace the ignition switch.
Any ideas where to look before I pull it apart again? I've checked all the fuses already.