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R-134a on Sale

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Old 07-02-2013, 10:27 PM
  #31  
PorKen
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Originally Posted by Randy V
Your '82 car will use R-12 unless it has been upgraded to R-134a.
IIRC, it's a down-grade.

I'm changing my fancy pick'em'up truck to 134a next week - compressor seized.
Getting new compressor/hoses/drier/orifice tube for it. (Parts are cheap for da GMC!)
Old 07-02-2013, 10:28 PM
  #32  
Imo000
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Better leave the drier to the mechanic too. It shouldn't be exposed to air. Ideally the exposure should be a few min. I think the limit is 8hrs but that depends on humidity.
Old 07-03-2013, 12:52 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by Randy V
You can see in the pic I posted the modern valve and tapper assembly with integrated pressure gauge - no adapter required. The needle is plenty long enough to pierce the threaded top.



My point being just that there is no internal shutoff valve on Cali cans.
You will be surprised when you actually try to move refrigerant from the can. I so predict... The standard tapper screws onto the Cali can, and everything fits like it should. Right up to the time when the standard tapper doesn't open the valve in the top of the can.

Trust me. BTDT, got the miles on the car going after the adapter.
Old 07-03-2013, 01:17 PM
  #34  
Randy V
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Originally Posted by dr bob
You will be surprised when you actually try to move refrigerant from the can. I so predict... The standard tapper screws onto the Cali can, and everything fits like it should. Right up to the time when the standard tapper doesn't open the valve in the top of the can.

Trust me. BTDT, got the miles on the car going after the adapter.

I've used the setup shown on several 'cali cans' with expected results. There ain't no internal valve in the can, dude!
Old 07-03-2013, 07:02 PM
  #35  
alabbasi
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R12 is cheap these days. About $15-20 / can so unless you're planning to overhaul your system. There is no need to convert.
Old 07-03-2013, 10:11 PM
  #36  
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Just went, got 4 cans and a can of A/C dye/leak stop , great price, thanks for the heads up !
Old 07-03-2013, 10:23 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by alabbasi
R12 is cheap these days. About $15-20 / can so unless you're planning to overhaul your system. There is no need to convert.
R12 is hard and sometimes impossible to get. Maybe Texas is different at the moment.
Old 07-04-2013, 12:07 AM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by Imo000
R12 is hard and sometimes impossible to get. Maybe Texas is different at the moment.
I'm going to have to connect with Alabassi because I can't find it cheaper than 35lb and I am in Dallas. Although I've had luck on two instances for less, but I've also had some wanting as "low" as $600.00 per 30lb container.
Old 07-04-2013, 11:44 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Fsharp9
Just went, got 4 cans and a can of A/C dye/leak stop , great price, thanks for the heads up !
Never put into a refrigerant system anything that even remotely sounds like it may have "stop leak" or something similar in it.

Dan
'91 928GT S/C 475hp/460lb.ft
Old 07-13-2013, 04:34 PM
  #40  
Randy V
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Originally Posted by Randy V
I've used the setup shown on several 'cali cans' with expected results. There ain't no internal valve in the can, dude!
Mea culpa to the good Doctor.

My comments were based on cans I had bought about a year ago. When the cans were emptied, there was just a hole from the needle valve part of the charging hose/gauge.

I bought a couple more on the Big Lots sale last month and lo and behold, these new ones do have an internal 'valve' in the threaded cap. Discovered after removing the filler hose/gauge assembly with a bit of freon still in the can.

I stand corrected, sir!
Old 07-13-2013, 04:47 PM
  #41  
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Glad it worked out for you. Car is cold inside now?
Old 07-13-2013, 06:13 PM
  #42  
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After installing a new rebuilt compressor from 928 Intn'l - yes!



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