R-134a on Sale
#31
Inventor
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IIRC, it's a down-grade.
I'm changing my fancy pick'em'up truck to 134a next week - compressor seized.
Getting new compressor/hoses/drier/orifice tube for it. (Parts are cheap for da GMC!)
I'm changing my fancy pick'em'up truck to 134a next week - compressor seized.
Getting new compressor/hoses/drier/orifice tube for it. (Parts are cheap for da GMC!)
#32
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
Better leave the drier to the mechanic too. It shouldn't be exposed to air. Ideally the exposure should be a few min. I think the limit is 8hrs but that depends on humidity.
#33
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Trust me. BTDT, got the miles on the car going after the adapter.
#34
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You will be surprised when you actually try to move refrigerant from the can. I so predict... The standard tapper screws onto the Cali can, and everything fits like it should. Right up to the time when the standard tapper doesn't open the valve in the top of the can.
Trust me. BTDT, got the miles on the car going after the adapter.
Trust me. BTDT, got the miles on the car going after the adapter.
I've used the setup shown on several 'cali cans' with expected results. There ain't no internal valve in the can, dude!
#37
Captain Obvious
Super User
Super User
#38
I'm going to have to connect with Alabassi because I can't find it cheaper than 35lb and I am in Dallas. Although I've had luck on two instances for less, but I've also had some wanting as "low" as $600.00 per 30lb container.
#39
Race Car
#40
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My comments were based on cans I had bought about a year ago. When the cans were emptied, there was just a hole from the needle valve part of the charging hose/gauge.
I bought a couple more on the Big Lots sale last month and lo and behold, these new ones do have an internal 'valve' in the threaded cap. Discovered after removing the filler hose/gauge assembly with a bit of freon still in the can.
I stand corrected, sir!
#41
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Glad it worked out for you. Car is cold inside now?