tda1

I'll check the code when I get home tonight. The car doesn't have alot of miles (54K) but there is no record of the timing belt being done and I have all the records.

fraggle

Dammit another red one. I'm so not unique!

Switch to the porken tensioner when you do the belt. It makes things much easier.

timbuktoo

Mine's red also (86 S auto though), but the interior is not nearly as well kept as tda1's.

also conrats on your purchase, tda1. it looks amazing.

M. Requin

Yep, Frenzy is a must! Lots of potential there, nice find. (It would get you a "you suck" on Garage Journal...)

tda1

HAHA!!! Nice.

Yep its red. I didn't think so at first. It was mostly brown from all the dust and crap all over and in it. Lots of work to do for sure but it shouldn't be to hateful.

SMTCapeCod

54K is great but....in the littany of sometimes happens not often but if it does catastrophes...

One rule of thumb is 5 yrs for timing belt regardless of mileage...of course folks from time to time report doubling that (or so)...but if it fails, the valves and pistons get introduced and then the whole priority list gets upended. Should definitely get a visual inspection of condition check of tension asap. and perhaps see that the tensioner has oil in it after sitting so long.

tda1

So I suppose 26 years is right out
I'm ordering parts tomorrow. Going with the porKen Tensioner and TB/WP replacement. I need to change the fluids (oil, trans, coolant, etc) I suppose all that can wait til I get the TB done.

SMTCapeCod

good to do some research on various bits, there are options for pump designs, belts, etc. For coming out of the gate, some have found that continental brand belts are prone to stretching more than Gates brand, and that Gates racing have still less of a range though they have fewer miles of proving on the street, not installed all that often. There are re-worked water pumps with break-away drives so the pump drive sheers and allows the crank and cams to keep time and avoid aforementioned catastrophe, but I think most folks would counsel to go 'new' rather than 'rebuilt' and to ensure the pump has a plastic impeller rather than metal. THere have been cases documented on here of worn water pump bearings allowing the metal pump impeller to start chowing on the block....not pretty. You can do engine related fluids at the same time without adding too many steps. Trans/diff is pretty easy.