dpower$

Excuse me , but I need to rant. I absolutely love my 928...and I hate my 928. It always seems to need some little thing....and then trying to fix it becomes a nightmare. Thanks, I'm better. My seat adj. switches are inop at certain positions. Never was a big deal until a detail guy tilted my seat back way forward and it won't go back. I tried spraying elec. cleaner in/around switch to no avail. I looked on rennlist and followed a post about removing the seats and cleaning switches.
Passenger seat won't go forward, so I put a bit in the manual adj port and got the seat forward to within about an inch of clearing the rear bolts and it won't go any more. It just "clicks" and I feel it has stripped. I got fed up and had to walk away.
Is it possible to pull the switches out of the plug and somehow jumper the contacts with a wire to operate the seat motors? If so, please explain as if I were a retarded monkey and pics would be great. The car is an early 86. At this point I don't care if I have bare wires hanging out of my seat or if they ever work again once I get the seats adj comfortably.

vanster

Just pull the seats out jump them on a work bench until you figure out the reason
My seats have had similar issues. It's an old car...if someone sat on you since 1986 maybe you wouldn't want to move again

medipedicman

I feel your pain. The seat has four motors total. There are three that are easily accessible. The one that you need to control pitch is inaccessible. You can access the wires leading to the motor from the bottom of the seat, behind the three visible motors.
I just did this with a set of alligator clips and a battery charger. If it goes the wrong way just switch polarity to reverse the direction of travel. I may have pics on my PC or you can search my previous posts.

Kevin in Atlanta

the fore/aft motor is right above the manual adjustment. You will see a pair of wires - unplug them and put 12 volts and ground to motor (i use my trickle charger)- you will see which direction they move- reverse to get them to move the way you want.

jpitman2

The trim holding the switches (assuming its a 6 way- 3 switches?) comes off with 2 screws, and the 3 connectors come off easily. Take care when refitting the plate to the seat not to over tighten and break the plate...BTDT! All the switches are the same, so if any one of them works, move it to the fore/aft lead and the seat should move, IF the Problem is switch based, not a motor problem. To get the rear bolts out, move the seat to maximum height, and forward, and access is quite good then. Watch for the 'captive' nut plates falling underneath.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

medipedicman

This is the connection,located under the seat, for the pitch of the backrest.

Hope it helps

G8RB8

I have the same problem with fore - aft up - down adjustments with the added fun of having a screw jammed in the track. I'm thinking about a Sawzall to get it out.

dpower$

Cannot thank you guys enough, what a great support group we have. I haven't been back to the car yet,leaving on vacation in a couple of days. Will certainly apply your helpful points when I get back to it.
THX again

OTR18WHEELER

here's a link to some pics that may or may not help.
https://rennlist.com/forums/members/...ad-switch.html

dpower$

Took a minute and, per your help, found the motor wires and jumped them with 12v and got the seat to go forward THANK YOU. I did not pull the seat however, because the "captive nut plates" comment baffled me. The allen bolts that hold the seat down appear to thread into what should be a welded nut on the bottom side. Am I wrong? How would you ever get up in there to hold the nut? The underside of the car does not appear to have any access panel. Thanks in advance

Kevin in Atlanta

There should be 6 cheese head bolts - four on the rear - two on the front.

Tap your socket into the cheese head and remove! Keep the socket square to avoid rounding the bolt.

jpitman2

Some of these observations should be model year qualified. My 83 S has only 4 bolts holding the seats down, with no signs of missing bolts, AND there are threaded plates under the rails - some of mine dropped as soon as the bolts were out. They are steel , ~6mm thick, rectangular , with bevels along the long edges so they fit up into undersides of the rails to locate them so they cant turn. There is enough room under the rails to slide them into place and hold up with a finger until a bolt is engaged. I found that with the seat on max height and well forward, access to the rear bolts is fairly good , but a small flat ratchet spanner ( the kind with a 1/4" hex hole in the head) can get in there easily.
jp 83 Euro S AT 55k

Wisconsin Joe

The "captive nut plate" is a small rectangular plate with threaded holes in it for the bolts. it fits into the rails so that you don't need a wrench on it to hold it. They are not secured to the rails (welded or otherwise). The front ones will fall down into the area below the rails if you don't hold it with your finger or something. If you drop it, a small pick, small needlenose pliers, and a hemostat are useful for fishing it out (guess how I know this )

If the seats are moving when you put power to them, then it may well be the switch that is the problem. Used ones go about $145. You can disassemble and clean them. It's a bit tricky, and reassembly can be frustrating. YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED!!!!!

Thread on switches: https://rennlist.com/forums/964-foru...lace-them.html

dpower$

Thanks! That switch writeup is great. I do have another question. Upon seeing the switch out of the seat, is it possible to put 12v to the individual wire connections on the back side of the switch to find out if the motors are in good shape before spending a ton of time redoing the switches?

OTR18WHEELER

Yes,The red is the hot (12v+) wire.
It is also possible there could be a broken wire between the switch and motor, (as was my problem)