worf928

Not quite.... There's a radiator shop on the East Coast that will replace the end tanks ... and provide a warranty on the work. I don't remember their name off the top of my head, but I'll search it out when I get home. I've been involved in having end tanks replaced three times. This last one was the only shop that succeeded and provided a warranty. (And before you ask: 10 months to go on the warranty. Ask me the question this time next year.)

ROG100

We have a shop here in DFW called "Clicks" and they have been replacing end tanks for a long time and seem pretty successful at it. They have the Behr press.

hacker-pschorr

Well, time to believe it. If such an animal existed, Mark and Roger would have found it by now.

GerritD

Hi,

we in Belgium do things differently. I had an original Behr radiator but due to a problem with lever of my headlights, the lever perced itself into the radiator.
Repair at a local craftsman who prepares also radiators for race cars, was not possible since it was aluminium with very narrow holes/tubes and thus too fragile.
Solution : make the same radiator in cupper, based on the original frame of the Behr radiator.
Advantage : better cooling and repairs afterwards are possible.
Price paid : $600

I've never had better cooling before. So I am really pleased!

kr
Gerrit

svpmx83

we all know it won't be

Speedtoys

I'm yet to fly a plane that's water cooled.

..not that they dont exist...

Carl Fausett

Half-truth. Can't speak for Mark's radiators, but yes, ours have a wider core. Our core is the same width as the end tanks - where on the stock rad the end tanks are wider than the core. That's how we get the increase in cooling capacity. They are advertised as being wider so that should not be a surprise to the buyer.

Our radiator will fit our supercharger kits. Our radiator cannot be used with Murph's SC kits.

We have 9 models now, where we started 4 years ago with 3. The early ones required more fitting to the car - but since we went to 9 different designs for every fan shroud and cooler combination, they are very drop-in ready.

And the "fraught with issues" comment. Hardly that. That's already been discussed in this thread and the failure numbers are published.

So when I see "why hasn't anybody made a good cost-effective replacement for the 928?" I say "we have". I suppose they could be cheaper if we went off-shore, manufacturing them in the USA costs us a little more, but I will not substitute quality for price on this. I don't really think you want us to, either.

ROG100

I chose my words very carefully so as not to talk about one suppliers particular radiator/radiators - there ARE more than one radiator supplier out there believe it or not. My statement is the whole truth when talking about generic 928 aluminum radiators. Want to check me out just do a search for aluminum radiators and count the failures. Many have tried to make it work and hopefully someone has.

Koenig-Specials 928

For the record, I have one of Carl's radiators and it dropped right in. Absolutely no mod required. With the Canadian temps dropping, the thing is running so cold that it has a piece of cardboard covering the bottom half. With that I am now getting 210 degrees F at the water bridge and heat in the car. It never got down that cold with the Behr. All I want now is for it to last at least 10 years. For me that's good enough.

depami

You shouldn't need cardboard. If your T-stat is in order the engine should stay at temp no matter the radiator. But the cabin might not.

Speedtoys

Ya..thats -not- the radiator, that's something else wrong.

Koenig-Specials 928

Cooling system refresh done recently: Brand new T-stat, rad, rad tank, Ford dual fans,new seals IN the bridge, all new hoses, entire system flushed, 70/30 distilled H20/glycol + 1 bottle water wetter and new Flex-a-Lite variable speed controller.. In the summer I was having overheating issues. Now, the car is heating up properly and the Rad Fans will come on at slow speed @205 degrees at the upper hose). In the city all is well but when I hit the highway, it runs too cold. Upper hose runs around 185 degrees F and dash temp shows 80 degrees C (176 degrees F). With the cardboard at the lower half, I get back the 200 degrees at the upper hose. I have pictures but that would be hijacking this thread.

Thanks for the comments.

P.S. I chose 70/30 mix for max cooling because car is stored in a heated underground garage in about 2 weeks until spring.

ROG100

I just bought a totaled 87 and it has a new radiator in it. Aluminium and made by a company called "Howe". Anybody have any experience with this company?

oroni123

mesures are almost the same

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Full-Alum...-/161089055200

Vilhuer

Friend has used Mustang alu radiator in his GT for few years with little modifications to it. Its slightly taller so factory upper mounts will not work unless both upper and lower rubber is changed to thinner ones. Fit is close enough that I wouldn't think twice about using one if $$$ is major consideration and end tanks are not needed.