snoz

This is my 1986.5 refresh post. I figured I’d consolidate what I’ve done so far into one post, add progress here, and leave my questions for other posts.

Here’s what I brought home. At the dealer, I had it on a lift for about 2 hours checking for any core concealed accident damage (that was the demise of my 80’). I found nothing structurally/mechanically serious other than a howling sound around the torque tube.





After getting it home (and getting lift bars and service covers), I raised it up and found this. I was fairly sure that it was the source of the noise I had heard and was the problem I’d expected. As it turned out, that was only one of the driveline noises. The torque converter bearings were shot as well.



So I decided to pull out the driveline. Here is the original transmission.



Once I pulled out the driveline, I sent the torque tube to Constantine and got this wonderful piece back. I’m really almost sad that it will be covered up when installed in the car.



While the TT and transmission were out, I focused on the RMS. With the help of Rob Edwards and others, I replaced my RMS.



Right around this time, Greg Brown found these beauties. I couldn’t help myself. It was a quick way to cross a major sub-system of the car off my list. It was a NOS transmission with a 2.538 final drive and LSD. Score!



Here’s the result of work primarily done by Constantine and Greg with a little assembly done by me.



Once that was done, it was time to start putting things back together.







Here it is sitting on all fours for the first time in a couple years. The paint doesn’t look all that bad from five feet away or so (with my eyesight anyway).



I’ve still got some tidying up underneath, but I’m now close to starting on the differed maintenance on the motor. I found sand and other garbage in the bottom of the throttle body so I’m concerned about the condition of the cylinders. I bought a bore scope to check for debris and damage to the cylinders, but I’m not getting any images from it so far. Hopefully I can get one that works by next weekend.

Many thanks to all that have helped get me to this point. This forum is like no other I've been a part of.

Shane

Wow! Really nice!

emmanuelli

wow the first pic of the car in the garage seemed so familiar! I thought, wait, who's been taking pics of my car in my garage! lol, awesome looking work there. looking forward to the more updates on how it runs once you're done. i too ride an 86.5

mickster

I am in awe of anyone who can do that type of work on their own with just lift bars...hard enough on the lift....

snoz

Thanks Shane, emmanuelli, and mickster. I had hoped to make some progress this weekend, but it appars that my inspection camera was delivered DOA. I got it off of Amazon. I'm sure they will make it right. My goal is to get to drive it a bit before winter. If I don't find any serious issues with the motor, I think that is possible.

-Ethan

SMTCapeCod

Wow, that's terrific! I too was sorely tempted by the that higher gearing/LSD combo...practicality & reality prevailed, though.

Must really 'git! Add one more the ranks that can actually substantiate the need for beefier rear tires

snoz

It's been a bit since I made any progress. Work has been killing me. Anyway, I started on the front of the motor. I know I need to get a straight edge on these gears, but does it look like new cam gear time to you folks from these pictures?

whiteNSXs

Ethan,
Your 86.5 appears to be in Meteor Grey instead of silver.
Beautiful.
Steve

snoz

Thanks Steve. Anyone have opinions on the cam gears? I'm thinking it's probably replacement time.

Shane

Once the coating goes they start wearing pretty fast. Those don't have sharp edges yet but if you can afford to replace them now then do so.

69gaugeman

If money is no object replace them. My 90GT ones were worse, and after 5000km they don't seem to have gotten any worse. YMMV.

If you are a 'I don't mind working on my car' kinda guy, (and you must be to do a transmission R&R on your back)I would button it back up and get some pleasure out of it on the road, then change them over winter.

snoz

I do enjoy working on my car. Especially when I'm accomplishing something. I'm going to go ahead and replace the gears and be done with it.

I guess this could be called progress. It appears that this car had the TB/WP done not too long ago. Oh well. It can't hurt to clean things up and do it over fresh. I guess I've got some cleaning to do.

The Fixer

Nice work snoz, and a great example to start with.
I Look forward to reading more of this.
Best,-Matt

depami

It's actually Meteor Metallic not Meteor Grey.

Considering what you've already spent, why stop now, replace them.


That intake looks fantastic and now so does the drive line.

Next you need to get that oil pan off for a thorough cleaning.

Keep up the good work. You should have a very nice, reliable car for years to come.

Bill Ball

Those gears could be recoated based on wear being limited to the coating with no discernible wear to the aluminum teeth. I haven't done it but some others have had success with it. Some have had problems (primarily with stripping doing damage to the gear). It depends on finding a good coating shop. It is FAR cheaper than replacing the gears as you will find out when you go to order them. I'm not advocating recoating, but it is an option. We do apparently have a good coating shop in my area according to another local owner who had his gears done recently.

The oil pump gear looks like the original aluminum gear and is worn a bit more than the cam gears. Not dangerously so yet, but I would replace it as well. The replacement gear is steel. There is a very thin spacer/washer behind the original aluminum gear that is removed if you install the steel gear. Look closely at the crank gear with a straight edge too. It is steel and very durable but can wear out too.

Your oil pan is heavily encrusted with oil and dirt. It doesn't look fresh, like you have definite current leak, but front main seal and oil pump o-ring, shaft seal and bolt o-rings are common wear items that will leak oil, and now is a good time to do them. I usually don't do them unless I can document them leaking, but many people consider it a WYAIT item, perhaps every 100K miles. Mine are still original on my 89 at 258K miles. They have been leaking a bit lately, so I'll do them at my next timing belt, which is actually due now (every 60K miles). The front main seal is easy, like the rear one. The oil-pump outer o-ring takes some care to install, but I've had no problem doing it on other people's cars.

Far more common as a source of oil all over the front is the timing belt tensioner, leaking from the adjustment bolt threads, end boot and/or block gasket. Up higher, the cam shaft end seal can be the culprit. See if you can trace the oil path, although like I said, it does not look fresh. Therefore, it is most likely that the tensioner leaked out most of its oil long ago and is near empty, so no longer leaking. The tensioner has a fixed amount of oil inside, whereas the other leak sources communicate with the engine oil supply.