Doug_B_928

Thanks, Stan. For clarification, are you suggesting to first try threading in the bolts tight to the nuts to see if they will tighten down (and maybe re-threading them). And if that doesn't work get new plates or at least new nuts? Or are you saying to get new plates/nuts and just tighten them by feel from now on?

Also, if I were to just replace the nuts, are you thinking that they wouldn't need to be welded in place because a wrench could be put on them to counter hold?

Thanks!
Doug

Mrmerlin

well if you examine the threads of the nut you can determine if they are good or stripped,
if they dont look like they are good,
then either replacing the whole plate or removing the stripped nuts and fitting a new 6 sided nut and holding it with a wrench should get you back on the road.

the new nuts wouldnt need to be welded on,
if your going to this trouble then replacing the plate with new would be a better option.
Tighten the nut/bolt assembly till its tight,
I am sure you have some feel for when a bolt is tight, yes?
you may also need to use new bolts if they have damaged threads or use the old bolts that you were replacing,
unless they are very corroded

Doug_B_928

Okay, thanks Stan.

MainePorsche

Doug,
What I did, when I had the rear suspension down recently, was on the install of original bolts I cleaned them really well. Some had what I believe was Loctite (blue) on them. I wanted all of them to have clean threads for the smooth ride back in. I bought a bucket of Gunk carburetor parts cleaner. It has a small holder inside to hold various blots, nuts, etc. After the bolts soaked for a while I used a soft wire brush along the axis of the threads. Bolts were then as clean as can be. They ALL went back nicely and with confidence

Add: also sprayed out the threads with a solvent/cleaner on the receiving end and then blew them out with air as well.

Doug_B_928

Sounds like a good practice for getting everything nice and clean. Thanks.

axis of evil

Why did you decide to fit new bolts? compare the old with new.
Are the calipers you are trying to refit the ones you removed? Or put another way , are you sure the calipers you are now trying to fit are from a 928?

Doug_B_928

Yes, they are the original calipers, and rotors, and probably even the bolts. IIRC, the WSM calls for the bolts to be changed every time they are removed.

Mrmerlin

use the old bolts they will work fine,

Doug_B_928

Tonight I removed the original nuts from the protector plates and welded on new replacements. To remove the original nuts I used a combination of a die grinder with a cutting disk and, more so, a small air saw. Everything went fairly smoothly. The hardest part was removing the dust caps from the hubs. Even the muffler clamp method required the addition of heat for the right side. It's comforting to know that the calipers are being held on tight.

Mrmerlin

good job

Doug_B_928

Thanks, Stan. I really appreciate all of the help that you've given me.

depami

Good job indeed.

That looks like a cool "must have" saw! What is it?

Doug_B_928

It's just a small air reciprocating saw. I bought it at Princess Auto (which is Canada's Harbor Freight). It works very well on sheet metal but it took quite a while to cut through the nuts.

Erik N

+1

M. Requin

TIG on the nuts? Nice work.