Tailgate de-mister operation
#1
Tailgate de-mister operation
Could anyone please help me to understand how this pod switch is supposed to operate on an '84 Euro. I don't have any reference and I'm just refurbishing and cleaning up all the pod switches.
As I turn the switch clockwise, the relay clicks, presumably turning the de-mister on. Turn it anti clockwise off? However, when in the clockwise position and the switch is depressed it also makes the relay click. The switch won't stay in the depressed position, it springs right back out, clicking again. What's this turning on or off?!
The switch light glows very dimly when the side / headlights are on in either clockwise or anticlockwise position but goes off when the switch is depressed. The bulb contacts look very dirty so will endeavour to clean in this awkward positon but would be helpful to know what normal operation is.
Thanks Tim
As I turn the switch clockwise, the relay clicks, presumably turning the de-mister on. Turn it anti clockwise off? However, when in the clockwise position and the switch is depressed it also makes the relay click. The switch won't stay in the depressed position, it springs right back out, clicking again. What's this turning on or off?!
The switch light glows very dimly when the side / headlights are on in either clockwise or anticlockwise position but goes off when the switch is depressed. The bulb contacts look very dirty so will endeavour to clean in this awkward positon but would be helpful to know what normal operation is.
Thanks Tim
#2
#3
Rotary is on/off in low intensity (single element on) Push is a delay activated high intensity (dual element) mode, it stays on for a while after you press it then goes off automatically - I don't recall exactly but think its about 15 mins on time. The illumination is 2 level - bright is high mode, low is low mode - so you will know when it switches off.
Alan
Alan
#4
^^^ and when the parking lights are on the lamp inside the switch will glow very dim,
unless it is pushed or turned..
NOTE There are more than a few cases where the defroster relay being engaged will prevent the engine from shutting off when the key is turned off,
thus removal of the defroster relay is required to shut off the engine,
to do this ,
turn the key back to run,
then remove the defroster relay,
then turn off the key to stop the engine.
unless it is pushed or turned..
NOTE There are more than a few cases where the defroster relay being engaged will prevent the engine from shutting off when the key is turned off,
thus removal of the defroster relay is required to shut off the engine,
to do this ,
turn the key back to run,
then remove the defroster relay,
then turn off the key to stop the engine.
#5
Thanks chaps. The terminals inside the switch, locating the bulb, seem to be very blackened and bulb operation is intermittent. I've used sandpaper and switch cleaning fluid, but it's not cleaning up and therefore not consistently working. The bulb is extremely dim with the parking and headlights. It gets bright when the switch is rotated but goes off for the time when the switch is pressed. So there is no indication the high power defrost is working. Can I test operation with a multimeter? Do you think there might be an alternative to a new switch?
#6
Thanks chaps. The terminals inside the switch, locating the bulb, seem to be very blackened and bulb operation is intermittent. I've used sandpaper and switch cleaning fluid, but it's not cleaning up and therefore not consistently working. The bulb is extremely dim with the parking and headlights. It gets bright when the switch is rotated but goes off for the time when the switch is pressed. So there is no indication the high power defrost is working. Can I test operation with a multimeter? Do you think there might be an alternative to a new switch?
The power to the bulb should be a Black/Blue wire. The 'Black/Blues' all originate from the potentiometer/rheostat dimmer switch under the dash in line with your left knee. They power the illumination to bulbs in the pod switches, dash, and center console. I would remove it and clean it up. To test the specific switch in question, pull the **** on the switch straight off. You'll then see pinch tabs so you can pull the entire switch out to a degree. The rear end of the switch is white and this is where the harness plugs into the switch. You should be able to separate the white part from the fore portion of the switch, and push it back through the hole from which it came and test from behind and under. This will test your back. Remember, all grounds are Brown. '
#7
Thanks, great info on the black blue wires as there's a bit of work looming in the dash for me. I've had the switch out and in pieces (with little springs and ball bearings pinging around the kitchen table) and it all looks to be okay except for the blackened bulb terminals, which are pretty delicate and inaccessible. Ill get this switch out the dash again and test with multi meter.