bad idle problem
Another problem could be a major vacuum leak under the intake manifold. when you get the car going can you hear a huge sucking sound coming from under the intake manifold?
then the diagnosis starts, and its all over the place, maf, isv, tps, throttle cable lubrication, intake leak, vacuum leak, temp sensor, temp sensor wiring, maf, maf wiring, o2 sensor, co2 calibration on maf, lh, fuel regulators and dampers, vacuum to fuel reguators, air filter upside down, stuck isv use wd40, etc etc etc etc
as i mentioned, no one really knows, we throw parts at it, and hope it eventually fine a cure.
then the diagnosis starts, and its all over the place, maf, isv, tps, throttle cable lubrication, intake leak, vacuum leak, temp sensor, temp sensor wiring, maf, maf wiring, o2 sensor, co2 calibration on maf, lh, fuel regulators and dampers, vacuum to fuel reguators, air filter upside down, stuck isv use wd40, etc etc etc etc
as i mentioned, no one really knows, we throw parts at it, and hope it eventually fine a cure.
i have 2 eyelets from the fuel injector harness, and i grounded them on one bolt next to drivers side throttle cable pulley.
there was exactly 2.
my other bolt for that pulley bracket on passenger has no grounds....
are there more grounds i forgot to hook up on my reinstallation? i am specifically referring to "valley" grounds rear top of engine.
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Ask on the 928uk mailing list - part of 928.org.uk (altho the website is down currently for maintenance - Angus posted on the list that he's doing something to it).
http://lists.928.org.uk/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/928uk
Places which are "safe" according to members of the 928uk list (i.e. won't screw things up and charge you to figure out how to fix their mistakes) include:
No.5 Garage in Acton (your closest)
Paul Anderson in Stroud (928spares.co.uk) - most commonly recommended
Loe Bank Motors in Bury
JZ Machtech used to be commonly recommended, but I did read their 928 specialist has moved on?
Your quote for timing belt sounds a bit light - the book time is 11-12 hours of labour, which doesn't leave much room for parts in their quote. For an idea on normal price, phoning one of the above and asking would give you a fair estimate as they'll know all the parts to be replaced.
Sounds like you've already chosen your garage tho' - in which case make sure they're replacing:
Belt (with Gates or Porsche belt - not Conti)
Two plastic bushings for the tensioner arm (these are IMPORTANT and often overlooked)
Cleaning and replacing the o-ring and cap, and refilling the belt tensioner (and not losing the 1mm thick spacer at the tip of it!)
Water pump (new, (e.g. made by Laso), preferably not a rebuilt pump)
Main tensioner roller
Idler tensioner roller
There's other stuff in there which can be a good idea to sort - like oil pump seal, and front main crank seal, but unless its leaking from there, I'd leave it alone. They will comment about an "oil leak from the front" but thats usually leakage from the tensioner.
You also want them to report (preferably with pictures) on the condition of the crank, oil pump and cam gears.
As for parts, lots of the UK guys use Roger (he's ROG100 here on Rennlist).
(I'm a brit in case you're wondering why some bloke in Oz is posting this..
)
Go here: http://members.rennlist.com/v1uhoh/underthe.htm
Under the drop down menu "Routine Checks and Maintenance" there is a selection: Under the Hood, the various views have a legend to id various parts.




