Tails

When refitting use a anti seize/scuffing compound, however make sure that it has no carbon content in it.

+1 to Stan's suggestion. When undoing the drain plugs, use a hexagon socket and a stout breaker bar and when undoing the plug, take up the slack on the bar and then give it a hard hit with the palm of your hand to cause it "break away the material between the threads". This method is far better than just applying increasing tension to the bar.

I have used the double spanner trick many time as well as using a ring spanner as the extension, however I have also broken the extension spanner or the side of the open ended spanner, so as a minimum safety measure always use safety goggles and top quality spanners.

mike77

Do you mean carbon or copper? I though copper was bad

linderpat

now I'm watching; these anti-seize conversations always get my interest.

StratfordShark

This coolant business confuses! I found a description here on Pentosin's site

http://www.pentosin.net/f_antifreeze.asp

Which is for a silicate-free bright blue coolant with 928s as specific application. It doesn't contain phosphates, and I've seen other advice not to use orange/pink coolants in 928s!

dr bob

Focusing on the original issue that's now solved for the OP, but will come up again when others search the subject:

I've had excellent results on these bolts using a 1/2"-drive extended ratchet that Harbor Freight sells. Sliding handle lets you gain some extra mechanical advantage when you need it just by extending the handle. Under the engine, it seems like my 'normal' ratchet with a 9-10" handle doesn't get the end down low enough to clear the low-hanging nearby impediments like exhaust, oil sump and crossmember. With a good shallow 13mm 6-point socket, the drain bolts all but jump out for me.

Look at http://www.harborfreight.com/1-2-hal...het-98831.html to see what I'm talking about.


On reinstallation, I've started using Teflon thread sealing paste on plugs like these. Coat the threads and both faces of the sealing washer, and let the sealant do the work for you. As originally installed, coolant passes into the threads and is ultimately contained by the pressure and distortion of the aluminum washer. Tighten until the bolt actually galls the washer, squeezing it tight enough to keep coolant from passing between the wasger and the bolt head or the washer and the aluminum boss on the block. Adding the sealing paste to the threads means the gap at the non-pressure face of the thread is filled so coolant doesn't pass as easily if at all. Similarly, the paste fills any imperfections or voids in the washer faces where they meet the bolt and the block. Friction is lower with the paste lubricating the threads, so you can easily get the pressures you need for sealing with less torque on the bolt. IIRC, I used something like 15 lbs/ft, about the same as what you'd normally use for 8mm threads dry. No leaks or problems with bolt/plug removal after -many- coolant changes now.

Stan (mr merlin) recommends a Loc-tite thread sealant. I bought a can of PTFE sealant in the plumbing department at Home Depot that's over a dozen years old now, and it still gets the job done. Turns out you don't need much... I use it on the oil sump drain plug, the differential plugs, water pump bolt threads, and of course on any tapered pipe threads and fittings.

Mrmerlin

Dr Bob thats a great idea to use the PTFE on the block drains they dont have to made super tight when refitting

mike77

StratfordShark I'm about to put G48 (aka VW G11) coolant in my 928 which appears to be Porsche approved for our years of car

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/s...egoryId_255224

I know a lot of people here are using G05 but that does not seem to be easily available here in the UK.