1984 928S coolant reservoir tank
05-14-2013, 06:03 PM
#1
Racer
Thread Starter
1984 928S coolant reservoir tank
Hey guys, I was wondering if any one here had a coolant reservoir tank that they might be able to ship to me? I am in need of one son e mine is cracked, and leaks a tiny bit. Or do you recommend to buy a new one?
Thanks!
Thanks!
05-14-2013, 06:14 PM
#2
Rennlist Member
Always buy new if you can, but if you need a used one I have one.
05-14-2013, 06:23 PM
#3
Racer
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05-14-2013, 06:35 PM
#4
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Unless I know that the used one I'm buying has been in a better environment than the one it replaces, or is lot younger, putting the used one in doesn't answer my need for one that isn't cracked/leaking now, and won't be cracked/leaking in the near future.
My luck has that used part failing along the side of a hot, lonely, dusty highway, someplace miles from replacement parts or even water to get me to civilization. With that in mind and because this is the ONLY time it will be easy, replace the stub hose that connects the reservoir to the steel piping on the inner fender wall, along with the return hose from the heater core to that same steel pipe right next to where the stub hose connects. WYAIT, the "only" remaining hoses in that part of the car are the hose from the rear of the right cylinder head to the heater control valve, the hose from the heater control valve to the heater core, and the return hose from the front end of steel line on the fenderwall over to the water bridge. There are two small (8mm or 5/16") hoses that connect to the front of the reservoir, vent lines from the water bridge and from the top of the radiator. In one of those hoses just forward of the reservoir is the coolant pressure switch, a fragile little plastic part that seems to fall apart in your hands if you aren't extra careful. Get a spare if you can with your parts order. Similarly, the coolant level switch in the top of the reservoir can be fun too. Of course, you'll want to install a new reservoir pressure-relief cap; the OEM Behr piece from our regular vendors is inexpensive and works perfectly, replacing the tired one you have now that leaks by at the rubber seal.
Lots of discussion about coolant choice. The consensus is that the Zerex G-05 is probably the best choice for our cars. I think Roger stocks that if you can't find it at a POLAPS nearby, shipped or picked up with all the rest of your project goodies you probably didn't know you need.
My luck has that used part failing along the side of a hot, lonely, dusty highway, someplace miles from replacement parts or even water to get me to civilization. With that in mind and because this is the ONLY time it will be easy, replace the stub hose that connects the reservoir to the steel piping on the inner fender wall, along with the return hose from the heater core to that same steel pipe right next to where the stub hose connects. WYAIT, the "only" remaining hoses in that part of the car are the hose from the rear of the right cylinder head to the heater control valve, the hose from the heater control valve to the heater core, and the return hose from the front end of steel line on the fenderwall over to the water bridge. There are two small (8mm or 5/16") hoses that connect to the front of the reservoir, vent lines from the water bridge and from the top of the radiator. In one of those hoses just forward of the reservoir is the coolant pressure switch, a fragile little plastic part that seems to fall apart in your hands if you aren't extra careful. Get a spare if you can with your parts order. Similarly, the coolant level switch in the top of the reservoir can be fun too. Of course, you'll want to install a new reservoir pressure-relief cap; the OEM Behr piece from our regular vendors is inexpensive and works perfectly, replacing the tired one you have now that leaks by at the rubber seal.
Lots of discussion about coolant choice. The consensus is that the Zerex G-05 is probably the best choice for our cars. I think Roger stocks that if you can't find it at a POLAPS nearby, shipped or picked up with all the rest of your project goodies you probably didn't know you need.
05-14-2013, 06:50 PM
#5
Racer
Thread Starter
Unless I know that the used one I'm buying has been in a better environment than the one it replaces, or is lot younger, putting the used one in doesn't answer my need for one that isn't cracked/leaking now, and won't be cracked/leaking in the near future.
My luck has that used part failing along the side of a hot, lonely, dusty highway, someplace miles from replacement parts or even water to get me to civilization. With that in mind and because this is the ONLY time it will be easy, replace the stub hose that cobbects the reservoir to the steel piping on the inner fender wall, along with the return hose from the heater core to that same steel pipe right next to where the stub hose connects. WYAIT, the "only" remaining hoses in that part of the car are the hose from the rear of the right cylinder head to the heater control valve, the hose from the heater control valve to the heater core, and the return hose from the front end of steel line on the fenderwall over to the water bridge. There are two small (8mm or 5/16") hoses that connect to the front of the reservoir, vent lines from the water bridge and from the top of the radiator. In one of those hoses just forward of the reservoir is the coolant pressure switch, a fragile little plastic part that seems to fall aprt in your hands if you aren't extra careful. Get a spare if you can with your parts order. Similarly, the coolant level switch in the top of the reservoir can be fun too. Of course, you'll want to install a new reservoir pressure-relief cap; the OEM Behr piece from our regular vendors is inexpensive and works perfectly, replacing the tired one you have now that leaks by at the rubber seal.
Lots of discussion about coolant choice. The consensus is that the Zerex G-05 is probably the best choice for our cars. I think Roger stocks that if you can't find it at a POLAPS nearby, shipped or picked up with all the rest of your project goodies you probably didn't know you need.
My luck has that used part failing along the side of a hot, lonely, dusty highway, someplace miles from replacement parts or even water to get me to civilization. With that in mind and because this is the ONLY time it will be easy, replace the stub hose that cobbects the reservoir to the steel piping on the inner fender wall, along with the return hose from the heater core to that same steel pipe right next to where the stub hose connects. WYAIT, the "only" remaining hoses in that part of the car are the hose from the rear of the right cylinder head to the heater control valve, the hose from the heater control valve to the heater core, and the return hose from the front end of steel line on the fenderwall over to the water bridge. There are two small (8mm or 5/16") hoses that connect to the front of the reservoir, vent lines from the water bridge and from the top of the radiator. In one of those hoses just forward of the reservoir is the coolant pressure switch, a fragile little plastic part that seems to fall aprt in your hands if you aren't extra careful. Get a spare if you can with your parts order. Similarly, the coolant level switch in the top of the reservoir can be fun too. Of course, you'll want to install a new reservoir pressure-relief cap; the OEM Behr piece from our regular vendors is inexpensive and works perfectly, replacing the tired one you have now that leaks by at the rubber seal.
Lots of discussion about coolant choice. The consensus is that the Zerex G-05 is probably the best choice for our cars. I think Roger stocks that if you can't find it at a POLAPS nearby, shipped or picked up with all the rest of your project goodies you probably didn't know you need.
05-14-2013, 07:17 PM
#6
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What is being suggested is that you do all the coolant hoses since they get forgotten until one bursts.....the two radiator hoses which are in sight tend to get replace more often simply because you see how bad they look and have them off when doing the t-belt service. Also a GREAT time to consider changing your fuel lines.
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05-14-2013, 07:43 PM
#8
Racer
Thread Starter
What is being suggested is that you do all the coolant hoses since they get forgotten until one bursts.....the two radiator hoses which are in sight tend to get replace more often simply because you see how bad they look and have them off when doing the t-belt service. Also a GREAT time to consider changing your fuel lines.
05-14-2013, 08:01 PM
#9
Chronic Tool Dropper
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Mine doesnt leak from the still-original rubber hoses yet, but it will real soon especially if I pull on them while removing the old reservoir. It actually has a crack on the side of my tank. Well I guess I might need to buy it new since like you said an old used part will soon fail. I contacted roger from 928 and gave me a quote so I was like ahh idk if I ever really want to do more than look at this car sitting in the garage, but if I wanted to last long enough to get back home some day I should put in a new one huh. I haven't really found a DIY thread for this so I think I just might create one on how to replace the tank with pictures. Ita going to be my first time so I'm sure ima need some spare parts
There's pretty excellent write-up in Dwayne's collection. It's hosted by Bill Ball on the Norcal928.org site under "Dwayne's Garage" IIRC.
You are allowed to have one leftover part when you are done besides the old reservoir and all those rotten coolant hoses, and that's the rear outer hold-down bolt for the reservoir. Most leave that out I guess. I used a flex-head 10mm gear-wrench and it wasn't too tough to get in and out.
The steel line where the stubby hose connects the reservoir to the cooling system is prone to corrosion. Use a little water-soluble lubricant (dish detergent or some K-Y) to help get the new hose on there, after you clean the end of that pipe up a bit. The hose goes onto the reservoir first with a clamp, then they both go in the car and finally the hose clamp at the steel pipe end gets snugged. I used a 1/4"-drive socket on a ball-end extension from under the car to set that clamp. Be sure to align all the other clamps so that you have future maintenance access. There's a set of long-reach hose pliers in my box that's real handy for getting it together as you place the new reservoir. Harbor Freight sells them, inexpensive.
Good luck on your project! Do it like you mean it!
05-14-2013, 08:19 PM
#10
Racer
Thread Starter
Fixed a few of your typos for ya...
There's pretty excellent write-up in Dwayne's collection. It's hosted by Bill Ball on the Norcal928.org site under "Dwayne's Garage" IIRC.
You are allowed to have one leftover part when you are done besides the old reservoir and all those rotten coolant hoses, and that's the rear outer hold-down bolt for the reservoir. Most leave that out I guess. I used a flex-head 10mm gear-wrench and it wasn't too tough to get in and out.
The steel line where the stubby hose connects the reservoir to the cooling system is prone to corrosion. Use a little water-soluble lubricant (dish detergent or some K-Y) to help get the new hose on there, after you clean the end of that pipe up a bit. The hose goes onto the reservoir first with a clamp, then they both go in the car and finally the hose clamp at the steel pipe end gets snugged. I used a 1/4"-drive socket on a ball-end extension from under the car to set that clamp. Be sure to align all the other clamps so that you have future maintenance access. There's a set of long-reach hose pliers in my box that's real handy for getting it together as you place the new reservoir. Harbor Freight sells them, inexpensive.
Good luck on your project! Do it like you mean it!
05-14-2013, 09:18 PM
#12
Racer
Thread Starter
05-14-2013, 09:37 PM
#13
Team Owner
to replace the tank remove the hose clamp from the steel line leave the hose connected to the tank bottom,
Remove the tank and bottom hose as one part.
Orient the new tank and bottom hose so that the clamp on the bottom of the tank is pointing to the bottom of the car,
this way you can tighten it later if it should leak and the tank is installed.
For the time it takes to RnR the tank only use new parts .
as you will soon find out how much of a PITA it is to make this repair
Remove the tank and bottom hose as one part.
Orient the new tank and bottom hose so that the clamp on the bottom of the tank is pointing to the bottom of the car,
this way you can tighten it later if it should leak and the tank is installed.
For the time it takes to RnR the tank only use new parts .
as you will soon find out how much of a PITA it is to make this repair
05-14-2013, 11:04 PM
#14
Racer
Thread Starter
Yea you have a valid point, so if I don't want to replace ot any time soon, and by any I mean never. Who has tried or has the aluminum reservoir tank that 928 motorsports sell? I was looking at it nd its not tgat much expensive than the plastic one. What are your thoughts, would it create rust over years????
05-14-2013, 11:19 PM
#15
Chronic Tool Dropper
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The plastic one in your car has only lasted 30 years, so extra life of the metal tank will show up sometime 30+ years from now. Meanwhile, the plastic tank lets you see the coolant level even when the engine is warm. My vote goes to the plastic tank for road cars.