MjRocket

Hey guys

I have a transmission cooler leak on my radiator, my mechanic says he believes the leak is originating from the seal that runs between/around the plastic housing and the radiator itself. I saw before listed somewhere (don't recall where) that they sell just the cooler or perhaps the seal, anyone have any input on this? I had a leak previously on another radiator so I just purchased this one a few months back (used) I can't really afford a Brand New one and obviously don't want to keep buying used and have the same issues. Any Thoughts/advice is Appreciated.

Thx
Mj

polecat702

Our Vendors sell replacement tanks, I guess you would need to reuse the coolers with new end tanks and seals. Then find a radiator shop in your area that repairs aluminum radiators.

My core let go, so I had to replace the radiator in my 89.

ROG100

We sell the plastic end tanks complete with O rings and seals for $85

MjRocket

Are these something anyone can install, or would I need to take it to a radiator repair shop? I'm assuming there is a special tool that is used to sperate all those little tabs that hold it on?

Thx
MJ

Mrmerlin

Try to tighten the nut that holds the cooler to the tank, 27MM
The tanks dont usually leak unless the nut is loose,
this can happen from improper tightening of the cooler lines

outbackgeorgia

Not clear from your description if you have an oil leak at the oil cooler in the radiator tank, or a coolant leak where the tanks join the aluminum radiator. The latter is most common.
Dave

MjRocket

I will Definitely look into that.

Thx

MjRocket

It's actually a transmission fluid leak, as my s4 has two coolers one on each side of the radiator. One side is an oil cooler and the other is a trans cooler. We believe the leak is in the seal that connects the plastic cooler to the actual radiator, however I will look into the advice given above to be sure.

ammonman

The seal that is between the plastic end tank and the radiator core is holding in coolant, not ATF. If you are leaking ATF the source is somewhere else. The ATF cooler inside the plastic tank is an aluminium plate type cooler. Are you getting ATF in your coolant or just on the exterior of the radiator?

Mike

Mrmerlin

Yes what Mike said what exactly is leaking?

MjRocket

No transfluid in the coolant, the radiator I had before was leaking into the coolant, this is just on the exterior...Man, I really need to find a better 928 mechanic...I should be paying YOU GUYS!

geschwindig

MJ, make sure it is not the 2 lines that connect the cooler to the tranny and run down the pass side of the frame. My car had oil everywhere when I got it, making me think it was multiple oil leaks. When I got it all cleaned off I found it was all trans fluid from one of the lines leaking around the crimp on the fitting. Fixed it with some blue 300 psi Aeroquip line and stainless crimp clamps from the local auto hose shop, about $20. Hardest part: getting to the other end of the lines next to the motor. Very doable but,

JakeS2

If the radiator in your '87 is original the rubber seals on the tanks are most propably ''done''. I went on the easy way and ordered an original Behr unit on my car. I still have the old radiator and will repair it "when I have time" (i.e. never :-) ). By looking at the assembly of the radiator the hardest part would be to open the claws holding the tank so that none of them break and then sealing them so that it gets a)tight enough, b)none of the claws break and you don't damage the plastic tank during the procedure.

The full unit is about $1k or even more so patchng it with Roger's kit is good way -- if you have time to work on it.

ammonman

If you are leaking ATF the issue isn't with your radiator end tank seals. You have either a loose connection, a leaking hose, or a cracked ATF cooler connection. Remove the hose connections from the cooler and inspect the cooler connections for cracks. Be sure to counter-hold the large nuts that secure the cooler connection stubs in the end tank when loosening or tightening the connections. If the connection points are OK, then you most likely have a bad hose. The hoses can be fixed one of two ways. The entire line can be removed and reconditioned by a competent hose shop or you can use a Dremel tool with cut-off wheel to cut the existing crimps, r&r the hose and secure with two hose clamps per end. If you go the hose clamp route try and find fuel injection clamps as they have rounded edges that prevent cutting into the hose. If you opt to have a shop repair the hoses you will need to get the car pretty high up on stands and remove the exhaust after the manifolds and air pump. This will give you enough room to get the ATF cooler hard lines maneuvered out of the engine bay. It takes some patience but it can be done. Be sure to cap the open ends when installing the repaired lines so dirt doesn't get inside.

Mike

polecat702

Don't pay some idiot that knows nothing about these cars! Every thing you'll ever need to know is right here, plus there are photo tutorials. Learn to work on your car yourself, we'll help you every step of the way. SEARCH IS YOUR FRIEND, if you can't find it ask.