DerkBarrington

Arnoud, thanks for the fuel pump advise.

Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the in tank pump if it is not needed? Also, can I still use the stock exterior fuel pump or should I go with an older one?

Arnoud

IIRC the in-tank-fuel-pump purpose is to make sure that in very hot climates, as in: much over +40 Celsius = much over +104 Fahrenheit, fuel get's still delivered fine.

However as documented here many times: sooner or later the in-tank-fuel-pump internal hose will split and debris of that internal split hose will get into your main exterior pump, which will then get jammed and seizes...
Hence I followed the advise as was given to me, and pulled my in-tank-fuel-pump out before such could happen, and yes: it's hose had started to split. One less moving part that will go wrong to worry about

And yes: you can use your stock exterior GTS fuel pump, no need to go with an older one. And that is the reason why to order also the fuel-house-to-pump part # 928.356.550.05 (and use two new chose clamps): that fits from the strainer to the exterior GTS fuel pump (as you can not re-use the fuel-house-to-pump part that you had there, as it has the wrong ID for the strainer).

DerkBarrington

Time for an update.

I took Arnoud's advice and eliminated the in tank pump. The tank is back in the car with a new pump and filter.

I eliminated the stock tensioner and installed the porkensioner - installation was a snap and it looks great. The new water pump and belt are on and I have the covers back on awaiting start up!

I'm still working on the AC system. I have a new condenser, compressor expansion valave and dryer but decided not to install them yet until I flush the evaporators of the old oil before I switch to R134.

I changed the oil and filter and filled it with 5w40 to start. I know the consensus is 20w/50 but I found a thread here that said the GTS should only run on 5w40. I thought the lower cold viscosity may help since the car has not been run for 10 years. I'll revisit the oil once I do the final oil change.

I only filled the cooling system with distilled water to start. I intend to flush it before I fill it with Zerex.

A special thanks to Roger @ 928RUs and 928 International most of new and used parts came from these sources and they were great to deal with.

Now for some pictures

DerkBarrington

Now for the exciting news... for me anyways ... I started the GTS this afternoon! It took me 3 months to get the car ready just to turn the key. I have a lot more to do but now that I know it runs it makes spending the $$$$'s easier.

I hand the fire extinguisher and hose at the ready and my wife and 5 year old taking cover behind the bushes. I turned the key and on the third try it fired up and after 5 minutes it was idling on its own.

I found the lifters very noisy but hope they will quiet down after it runs a little bit. I noticed one of the fuel lines to the pump was wet. I need to grind down a wrench so I can tighten it properly. I had a similar drip from a power steering pump line. There seemed to be a whine up front. I discovered it was my clutch, when I tried to engage the clutch it went to the floor ... obviously I did a poor job bleeding it. Once I returned the pedal to its upright position the whine was gone.

Tomorrow I'll wash the car then push it back in the garage to continue the project I have a video of the car running which I will upload to youtube shortly.

A big thank you to all on the board who assisted me in getting this far!!

Ducman82

looking good!

17prospective buyer

WOW! What a deal. Good job. That rust on the bottom portion of the car is probably from being stored in an unheated place and the frost in the spring causing the floor where it was stored to sweat, meaning dew on everything at or near ground level.

Leon Speed

You will definitely need a hot post cover, especially if you're going to wash the car.

M. Requin

Great effort- it's looking good. By now I'm sure you've read all the horror stories and advice about 928 fuel lines, but I would double check that wet line- actually, I would remove it and see if it is still flexible, and I would do it before I would start her up again. You've found such a great deal it would be terrible to lose it!

DerkBarrington

I checked my fuel lines up front and they are all still in good shape with no cracks etc. My wet fuel line is the one that runs from the filter to pump. It's difficult to tighten because you can' get a wrench in there to counter hold the check valve. I'm going to grind down a wrench to get the job done.

I uploaded a youtube video of the first start. The video was taken within 5 minutes of startup.

Arnoud

Good progress, Derk, thanks for posting (and good advice from Aryan: get a hot post cover).

Lifters can be (very) noisy after a restart as per your posted video, but that should go away within something like 15-20 minutes.

Regarding the hard fuel line from the main fuel pump to filter: a bit of info on the torque values and a few photo's on for example this post (and easiest to do by taking the fuel pump + hard line + fuel filter out):
https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ml#post9990751

Regarding the fuel lines up front: just because the outside is not cracked, does not mean all is also OK with the actual inside fuel lines, which are now 20 years old on your car. So best to follow Martin's advice, and if the smallest doubt then replace them.
The best option - by far - available are those made by Greg Brown (supplied by Roger), picture of 3 (there are 5 in total) of them can be found from here: https://rennlist.com/forums/10307267-post3665.html

the flyin' scotsman

the hard fuel line bends/cracks after being in place for sometime and service work is done on fuel filter/pump. Order a new line with the respective bolt crush washers then replace it with a new fuel filter....good to go.

btw...........great to hear you have it running after all these years

Tony

Nice car! Well done.

Tom in Austin

Nice car! Did you set your cam timing with the PK32r tool? Makes a nice improvement ...

DerkBarrington

I didn't use any special tools to adjust the timing but I intend to do some fine timing adjustments toward the end of my project.

I will definitely invest in a hot post cover and new fuel lines (including the hard line going from the filter to pump). I've come to far to risk the GTS bursting into flames once I get it back on the road.

I need to start figuring out the PSD since I got the Diff Off error message on start up. I will start by putting fresh fluid into it and go from there.

Oh yah ... I decided to go with the Pioneer DEH-80PRS deck ...

Dave928S

My fuel lines looked OK too, with no cracking, but when taken off it was clear that they were no longer as flexible as they should have been. Sometimes just looking at them won't really reveal the true condition.

Considering a leak can totally barbecue the car, I decided that it was good insurance and money well spent to replace the lot with Gregs lines. It's truly worth giving the lines priority if you can manage it.

Here's a pic of all the lines ...