Carrera51

Nice find and glad it will be saved.

Dave928S

I have the following for the codes ....

718 .... change of one VIN letter to reflect that even though manufactured in '92 it's an early US '93

239 .... change of tyre manufacturer during production.

DerkBarrington

Thanks for the option codes.

I put the GTS on jack stands tonight. I decided to invest in a MaxJack 2 post lift for the garage. I hate working under cars and the MaxJack will be worth every penny in the long run. I just need to make sure my concrete floor is strong enough for the lift.

While putting the car on stands I noticed that the PO used the frame rails as a jack point and left nice sized dents... should I be concerned or is this a common problem caused by inexperienced owners / garages?

I also noticed a coolant drip from the front of the motor, I suspect the water pump. I'll know more when I tear into it. Tomorrow I plan to siphon off a half tank of 10 year old gas, drain coolant and get started on removing the radiator. I'll post pics of my progress when I get a chance.

Hilton

Common, and they're non-structural, so don't worry.

If it really bugs you, I'm pretty sure you can remove the seats, pull up the strip of moisture seal and use a dowel and hammer or similar to push them back out from above.

Its usually a sign that a workshop who didn't know what they were doing has been let loose on the car.. so I'd be concerned about the rest of it, but not those rails

Imo000

It's a bit more work than that. You need to cut the floor open to hammer that out. Most 928s have these pushed in.

Dave928S

I've pushed those creases out using a piece of 20mm wide flat (thick) welded to a bit of steel rod ... like a foot on the end of the rod. Feed it through the holes and belt it, with the foot oriented front or back, and you can get them pretty straight. The foot addition allows you to reach to between the holes, and not just the spot directly below them.

DerkBarrington

I got the radiator out this morning ... a really simple job on the 5 speed GTS. It's definately seen better days.

The plastic belly pan is garbage ... I'm on the hunt for a new one.

It seems the PO had the air pump and AC compressor belt disconnected. The air pump turns okay but the AC compressor pully seems very loose. The compressor probably needs replacement.

The motor looks to be in great shape. The upper and lower coolant hose ports look like brand new as does the crankcase.

The front pulleys look much worse then they are. The rust on the car is superficial and you can rub most of it off. I see cleaning my grounds in my future

I hope to get the front covers off and timing belts inspected this weekend.

Hilton

The best replacement for the belly pan IMO is the aluminium pan from 928intl (nice thick aluminum, exactly the same as stock minus the vents).

Drill out the rivets and keep the two vents that stick up from the naca ducts on the belly pan, so you can attach them to a replacement if needs be. The only way to get more vents it to buy a new factory plastic pan

Dave928S

Wow .... it's sad to see so much external corrosion ... but it looks like the coolant has done it's job ... fingers crossed.

DerkBarrington

looks pretty bad but it will make the "after" pictures all that more spectacular.

So far no big surprises. On the positive side the interior is like new including the carpets, the exterior body is mint without even a ding, the car hasn't leaked a drop of oil in the 10 years it was stored.

For me it is all about the project, I like working on it as much as driving it. After you factor in all the man hours I will spend on the restoration I would have better off buying a well sorted GTS at full price... but fortunately I don't count my labour

Dave928S

Subscribed ... I'll follow your project with great interest. Yours is going to be a beauty when it's done

DerkBarrington

Ordered my first lot of parts. Thanks Roger!

Decided to get a new water pump and the Porken tensioner. While I am waiting for the parts to arrive I decided to tackle the fuel tank. The tank is 1/2 full of 10 year old fuel. It still looks relatively clear but smells stale.

Some rust in the tank from the disintegrating fuel restrictor. The fuel was just dribbling out when I disconnected the line from the pump, so I suspect the in-tank filter may be clogged. I am taking the tank out and having it cleaned.

Dave928S

From the wiring I can see (two wires piggybacked to the external pump terminals) it looks like you have an in tank pump, and the filter on that which is smaller could be clogged.

The intank pump (or filter) is under the anti vortex plate at the bottom of the tank, and that's also where a lot of sediment can hide.

here's a pic of an intank pump, which you know you have if you see the two terminals on the outside.

DerkBarrington

I've been working away on my project. Got most of the front engine torn down, gas tank dropped, drained and cleaned. I must say the leaking coolant made a mess of the motor.

The parts came off easily and no bolts seized. I got all the pulleys off by hand except the little pulley below the crank gear, it was seized on the studs. I bought a torque multiplier to get the crank bolt off... for $100 I highly recommend it, makes taking off those stubborn bolts a piece of cake.

I must say it's not cheap to restore a 928! My list of required parts include: A new radiator, condenser, a/c compressor, air pump, on the fuel side both pumps and fuel level sending unit. I already got the porkensioner, water pump, belt and related components.

I'm into the cleaning stage.... I enjoy putting everything back together without getting my hands dirty

Anybody who has a used compressor - Denso 10PA20C, condenser and air pump. Let me know, I'm in the market.

Arnoud

Good progress Derk, keep on going.

As per my earlier post #7: now would be a good time to replace your - most likely at least split-hose broken (is it?) - in-tank fuel pump with the earlier strainer, so to have one less moving part to worry about (and I have been happily driving around since November 2011 onwards like that).
If you decide to do so you will need:
- In-tank strainer part # 928.201.081.04 (this includes the seal), and
- the fuel-house-to-pump part # 928.356.550.05 (and use two new chose clamps).

More background info, including also some pictures I took when replacing it as per post #5, in this thread: https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...pump-hose.html