Ricardo Vega II

Cool and thanks for the heads up! I'm stuck at the point where the 8 mm Allen wrench can't be turn properly cuz of the angle. If I need to rotate the fly wheel I put the transmission in neutral and the rotate fly wheel in which direction? I read on a post that there is only one way to turn it.
Also, how the hell do you remove the oilpan? Looks like a good number of bolts are in places that can't be reached at all, unless motor is lifted.
Ricardo Vega

MainePorsche

You can ONLY rotate the crankshaft clockwise. See Dwayne's write up for flexplate business. Just release tension at this point.

Regarding removing the oil pan, the steering rack has to come down.

http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/

rexpontius

Clockwise when looking At the front of the engine that is.

But if you are careful you won't destroy the engine when turning it the wrong way around.

Ricardo Vega II

Hey guys! Released about 3/16's of an inch of pressure off the plate! This kicks ***, and so do al of you guys that have helped me! I guess I'll plan of maybe taking it to a friends shop in the next month or two to remove pan and see how bad wear is on the bearing and block. But I'm hoping that pressure removed from it now will help. Ill just check it every oil change or so, or sooner?
This is so cool we were able to nail it on the head! Awesome! Here's a Shiner Bock for you guys at 10:51 am west Texas time......
Ricardo Vega II
HAPPY 1987 928 S4

Lizard928

I'm sorry to say this but just releasing the pressure is not enough. You need to measure the end play with a dial indicator to determine how far out it is.
Do not drive or start the car till this is done.
I also do not recommend starting the car until the pan is pulled and it is determined how much damage there is on the block.

If that bearing is just started to fail, then it can be replaced. If you continue to drive it, you might need a new block and crankshaft.

So if you have to wait a month to inspect, park it for that month!

Ricardo Vega II

Lizard928, thanks for the heads up. What is it that I need to measure? Between what and a dial indicator can be found at automotive places like Orielleys, Pep Boys and so on?
Is there a link on how to do that check over?
Thanks
Ricardo Vega II

MainePorsche

Ricardo, see the link above to Dwayne's Garage. The Flexplate business is the bottom item.

Ricardo Vega II

Cool, I've got my calipers and ready to do this! Ill let you guys know what I find, thanks again!
Ricardo Vega II

Ricardo Vega II

Hey guys I got my measurements and they were done from the inside edge of the been housing area to the teeth on fly wheel was at and I got the decimal points of .60 and .84 making that a difference of .24 mm. What you guys think? It falls within the 0.40 range. But at this point is it still best if I drop pan and physically check the block?
RV II

MainePorsche

I think so.
If it were mine, I would.
You do not have certainty on the extent of the damage.

depami

I would want to know from where the metal in the oil came.

Ricardo Vega II

Yeah I hear you guys, so ill first start by changing oil next week. And make sure most debris is out. Then the following week ill see if can remove pan and check out thrust bearing. Unfortunately I don't have much time and car only is driven Saturdays and Sundays.......I totally appreciate everyone's help and support!
RV II

Lizard928

Ok 0.24mm is .009"

If this is deadly accurate then you can get away with just replacing the bearing now. Any more than this and you may start to machine the block.

However I would be getting a proper dial indicator with magnetic base and measure the play. If you do have .009" then you will have copper showing on the thrust bearing and from here it will wear quickly. If you have .008" then it is perfect and don't even think about it again.

Now that said, if you do have a ton of metal in the oil you do need to determine where they are from. What I want to know is if the metal is magnetic or not.

Also a wear of .009" will not cause a stalling of the motor, this is caused by something else, likely the idle switch not engaging, or a bad relay.

Ricardo Vega II

Well, I think the issue with thrust bearing and car stalling might be connected. Right away I noticed that the RPM's when coasting in neutral were staying above 500 and consistent. Before it would drop to like 250 and then accelerate by its self up to 750 n then back down to 500. As if it had the resistance before and which is why it would drop to 250, but the engine knew it needed keep running so it would jump to 750 and then once it leveled off it would stay at 500.
I also notice the starting of the cr is smoother. RPM's don't jump around since there's maybe no resistance inside. Ill keep an eye on RPM's and sounds. I will also change oil soon and start fresh with that and see how bad metallic debris is.
As well as dropping the pan and checking out the thrust bearing.
But yes, 0.24 mm is what is the total difference but will get another type and do a second check over.
Thanks to everyone! You guys are the best!
RV II

Mrmerlin

I thought that new clearance was .008 in. to .012 and max was .016in.

From what you said and depending on how much metal there is in the oil;

I would be refilling this oil pan with some cheap oil,
and buying a few filters and doing oil changes at every 500 miles for the next 3 services,
This to remove as much metal as possible ,
remember that the all of the systems that see oil have been contaminated.

I think you need to take these measurements again
the front pinch bolt should be removed prior to taking measurements.

Also if you did not inspect and then retorque the rear pinch bolt at the transaxle,
then you need to do this then install the front pinch bolt,
add a drop of blue loctite and torque the bolts to 66 ft/lbs

NOTE failure to follow these instructions can lead to further damage and or failure of the thrust bearing