New Brake Pads Too Thick - Won't Fit
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
New Brake Pads Too Thick - Won't Fit
This is for an early '86 928S.
I'm in the middle of refreshing my rears, new (used) rotors and new brake pads.
I got the brake pads from Roger (WBR Ceramics) but apparently they are VERY thick and won't even fit over the rotors once in the caliper. They won't even fit with one pad in on the outer most side of the caliper I'm not sure what to do apart from just re-installing the old pads.
Comparison of old and new pads.
I'm in the middle of refreshing my rears, new (used) rotors and new brake pads.
I got the brake pads from Roger (WBR Ceramics) but apparently they are VERY thick and won't even fit over the rotors once in the caliper. They won't even fit with one pad in on the outer most side of the caliper I'm not sure what to do apart from just re-installing the old pads.
Comparison of old and new pads.
#3
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Check the fourth picture with just one pad in, the rotor won't track into the caliper. I've already pushed the piston back as far as it'll go. There's probably 1/4in of space still occupying.
I'm thinking of installing one old pad on that outer most side and then a new bad against the piston. I tried it on the spare new rotor and it'll be tight indeed but at least she'll track in the caliper.
Edit:
Wait, I think I got it. The mounting frame was off and took up the space required. Moved it back and line it up the rest of the caliper.
I'm thinking of installing one old pad on that outer most side and then a new bad against the piston. I tried it on the spare new rotor and it'll be tight indeed but at least she'll track in the caliper.
Edit:
Wait, I think I got it. The mounting frame was off and took up the space required. Moved it back and line it up the rest of the caliper.
Last edited by Avar928; 04-13-2013 at 11:45 PM.
#4
Team Owner
take a file and clean the seating edges of the caliper and the pads so they slide into the caliper housing,
put the outer pad in first and make sure its seated into the caliper frame tab on the back of the pad,
then pry the frame towards the piston this should move the frame enough to fit the other pad.
also put the C clamp on the piston and caliper and make sure its fully seated ,
NOTE you may have to open the bleeder to make make sure the piston isnt being held hydraulically
put the outer pad in first and make sure its seated into the caliper frame tab on the back of the pad,
then pry the frame towards the piston this should move the frame enough to fit the other pad.
also put the C clamp on the piston and caliper and make sure its fully seated ,
NOTE you may have to open the bleeder to make make sure the piston isnt being held hydraulically
#6
Team Owner
you have whats called a floating frame caliper,
its OK for one side to move out of square ,
simply pry it back to straight
its OK for one side to move out of square ,
simply pry it back to straight
#7
Rennlist Member
When you push the piston back it might pay to remove a bit of brake fluid from your reserviour so it doesn't overflow with the fluid that is pushed back into it.
Myles
Myles
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#8
Rennlist Member
You may also want to clean up those calipers, lots of old crud build up and that may be causing the two halves and the new pads to move freely.
The pads should drop right in and not bind, the two halves should also move unencumbered.
The pads should drop right in and not bind, the two halves should also move unencumbered.
#9
Rennlist Member
take a file and clean the seating edges of the caliper and the pads so they slide into the caliper housing,
put the outer pad in first and make sure its seated into the caliper frame tab on the back of the pad,
then pry the frame towards the piston this should move the frame enough to fit the other pad.
also put the C clamp on the piston and caliper and make sure its fully seated ,
NOTE you may have to open the bleeder to make make sure the piston isnt being held hydraulically
put the outer pad in first and make sure its seated into the caliper frame tab on the back of the pad,
then pry the frame towards the piston this should move the frame enough to fit the other pad.
also put the C clamp on the piston and caliper and make sure its fully seated ,
NOTE you may have to open the bleeder to make make sure the piston isnt being held hydraulically
Is it also normal that the caliper appears to rub against the new rotor as well?
#10
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks everyone for the advice.
Managed to get the driver rear done. Working on the passenger rear now. I took the caliper off the car, disconnecting the brake line to work easier. I'll be power bleeding the brakes when done.
Managed to get the driver rear done. Working on the passenger rear now. I took the caliper off the car, disconnecting the brake line to work easier. I'll be power bleeding the brakes when done.