Mongo's "First Time" - Timing Belt/Water Pump Thread
#31
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I have to try that straight edge test out. I didn't see much 'shine' on the teeth of the gear on the passenger side. Once I tear into it more, I'll post more pictures of the remaining gears. What I am curious to know, is if there will be reduced wear on the gears with the addition of the porkensioner.
#34
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And more..
The box on my car is parts - Hell no I'm not drinking during this job! Precision and Detail are everything before I get sloshed!
The box on my car is parts - Hell no I'm not drinking during this job! Precision and Detail are everything before I get sloshed!
#35
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Just an obligatory pic of draining antifreeze. I still can't break those damn block plugs open and I think I stripped one!
#36
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#37
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#38
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Just f**kin with ya.
How about I hit those block plugs with a propane torch? I'm a TV repair man remember. I have the ultimate set of tools!
How about I hit those block plugs with a propane torch? I'm a TV repair man remember. I have the ultimate set of tools!
#39
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#40
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I almost don't even want to attempt it. Like I said, I stripped one a while back when doing a coolant flush. I think there's a thread still on that I started and just changed the coolant by draining only the radiator.
#41
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Propane torch, surgical application of heat to the boss around the bolt, is OK, but... It takes a LOT of heat to do much good. The aluminum down there is pretty good at migrating heat around, including to the coolant in the lower galleys just the other side of where you are adding heat. You won't get the aluminum much over the boiling point of any coolant that's left in the block either. Darn those fizzix!
As others have said, use a 6-pt 1/2"-drive socket, and plan to use a long-handled ratchet or breaker bar. Make darn sure the socket is securely on the bolt head, preload a little, then a sharp pull on that handle to break it free. When you reassemble, use teflon pipe thread sealant on the threads and on the faces of the sealing washers. 15 lbs/ft of torque is plenty to get them back in when you prep the bolt that way.
We've done a few cars that had enough crud in the bottoms of the block galleys to completely block flow out through the drains. A strategically inserted bit of welding rod as a probe as needed to get the holes cleared well enough to get it all drained.
As others have said, use a 6-pt 1/2"-drive socket, and plan to use a long-handled ratchet or breaker bar. Make darn sure the socket is securely on the bolt head, preload a little, then a sharp pull on that handle to break it free. When you reassemble, use teflon pipe thread sealant on the threads and on the faces of the sealing washers. 15 lbs/ft of torque is plenty to get them back in when you prep the bolt that way.
We've done a few cars that had enough crud in the bottoms of the block galleys to completely block flow out through the drains. A strategically inserted bit of welding rod as a probe as needed to get the holes cleared well enough to get it all drained.
#42
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Will do. I may take the console off tonight if I have time but have questions about it:
1) Should I remove the console with the alternator and power steering pump attached?
2) Remove the alternator, then remove the console with the PS pump still attached to it?
3) Remove both the power steering pump and alternator, then remove the mounting console?
1) Should I remove the console with the alternator and power steering pump attached?
2) Remove the alternator, then remove the console with the PS pump still attached to it?
3) Remove both the power steering pump and alternator, then remove the mounting console?
#43
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I would leave those block plugs alone if they start to strip. There is a picture floating around here with the block busted around the plug. In fact I did leave one alone I couldn't remove last time I did this job. Anyway.
Remove the altenator, loosen teh PS pump, remove the console and leave the PS pump.
Remove the altenator, loosen teh PS pump, remove the console and leave the PS pump.
#45
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You should be able to get better/closer pictures of those teeth. Move some of the hose around and put the camera so that it points to the exposed part of the cam gears.