dr bob

Yes, the wear rate will be reduced due to better flutter control and the slightly lower static tension needed. But the wear rate depends on having the hard anodized contact areas of the gear intact. The raw aluminum is like butter compared with the anodizing.

Mongo

I have my fingers crossed. $600 in cam and oil gears sounds like it's going to hurt.

Mongo

Some more pics of that cam gear and the wear on the belt, which is more visible.

Mongo

And more..

The box on my car is parts - Hell no I'm not drinking during this job! Precision and Detail are everything before I get sloshed!

Mongo

Just an obligatory pic of draining antifreeze. I still can't break those damn block plugs open and I think I stripped one!

Bill51sdr

Use a 6 point socket on them AFTER hitting them with Kroil.

Bill51sdr

Just..... don't. (we need a barf icon on this site.) This is a rice-free forum.

Mongo

Just f**kin with ya.

How about I hit those block plugs with a propane torch? I'm a TV repair man remember. I have the ultimate set of tools!

Bill51sdr

Exercise care if you do. Block is aluminum, you know...

Mongo

I almost don't even want to attempt it. Like I said, I stripped one a while back when doing a coolant flush. I think there's a thread still on that I started and just changed the coolant by draining only the radiator.

dr bob

Propane torch, surgical application of heat to the boss around the bolt, is OK, but... It takes a LOT of heat to do much good. The aluminum down there is pretty good at migrating heat around, including to the coolant in the lower galleys just the other side of where you are adding heat. You won't get the aluminum much over the boiling point of any coolant that's left in the block either. Darn those fizzix!

As others have said, use a 6-pt 1/2"-drive socket, and plan to use a long-handled ratchet or breaker bar. Make darn sure the socket is securely on the bolt head, preload a little, then a sharp pull on that handle to break it free. When you reassemble, use teflon pipe thread sealant on the threads and on the faces of the sealing washers. 15 lbs/ft of torque is plenty to get them back in when you prep the bolt that way.

We've done a few cars that had enough crud in the bottoms of the block galleys to completely block flow out through the drains. A strategically inserted bit of welding rod as a probe as needed to get the holes cleared well enough to get it all drained.

Mongo

Will do. I may take the console off tonight if I have time but have questions about it:

1) Should I remove the console with the alternator and power steering pump attached?

2) Remove the alternator, then remove the console with the PS pump still attached to it?

3) Remove both the power steering pump and alternator, then remove the mounting console?

Leon Speed

I would leave those block plugs alone if they start to strip. There is a picture floating around here with the block busted around the plug. In fact I did leave one alone I couldn't remove last time I did this job. Anyway.

Remove the altenator, loosen teh PS pump, remove the console and leave the PS pump.

Mongo

Does the console just hang around then?

Imo000

You should be able to get better/closer pictures of those teeth. Move some of the hose around and put the camera so that it points to the exposed part of the cam gears.