'86.5 Belly Pan
#2
The 86.5 is the same as the '86 and '85, not sure how the earlier 16 valve's will work although thinking about it they seem the same too.
The S4 and up are different as the nose changes the way it attaches and there is a center under engine tray too.
The S4 and up are different as the nose changes the way it attaches and there is a center under engine tray too.
#6
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Louvered-Ven...7fa62d&vxp=mtr
Trending Topics
#8
Yep:
It still needs paint and some adjustment, but I'm only out $40 so far. It will double as a drip pan for now (ugh) but I'm happy to have protection for the alternator and belts from stones and cones. It should help with cooling as well, but I'll know more after the next couple events in April if I need to add louvers or NACA ducts. I have an IR thermometer I can use to compare temps with it on and off.
I can remove it with a 13mm wrench in about 30 seconds
It still needs paint and some adjustment, but I'm only out $40 so far. It will double as a drip pan for now (ugh) but I'm happy to have protection for the alternator and belts from stones and cones. It should help with cooling as well, but I'll know more after the next couple events in April if I need to add louvers or NACA ducts. I have an IR thermometer I can use to compare temps with it on and off.
I can remove it with a 13mm wrench in about 30 seconds
#11
@OTR18WHEELER - it's a "track-only" car
@MJ - it's actually diamond plate aluminum (about .1" thick). It's tacky, I know, but my thought was that the textured design might keep the fluids from running off the pan and onto the ground. The piece weighed 12lbs when I bought it, but I cut off a chunk from the end. So, it's maybe 10lbs total. Coincidentally, I used a 10lb sledge to work it into shape
@MJ - it's actually diamond plate aluminum (about .1" thick). It's tacky, I know, but my thought was that the textured design might keep the fluids from running off the pan and onto the ground. The piece weighed 12lbs when I bought it, but I cut off a chunk from the end. So, it's maybe 10lbs total. Coincidentally, I used a 10lb sledge to work it into shape
#12
@OTR18WHEELER - it's a "track-only" car
@MJ - it's actually diamond plate aluminum (about .1" thick). It's tacky, I know, but my thought was that the textured design might keep the fluids from running off the pan and onto the ground. The piece weighed 12lbs when I bought it, but I cut off a chunk from the end. So, it's maybe 10lbs total. Coincidentally, I used a 10lb sledge to work it into shape
@MJ - it's actually diamond plate aluminum (about .1" thick). It's tacky, I know, but my thought was that the textured design might keep the fluids from running off the pan and onto the ground. The piece weighed 12lbs when I bought it, but I cut off a chunk from the end. So, it's maybe 10lbs total. Coincidentally, I used a 10lb sledge to work it into shape
#14
@MJ - we can build you one too, once I work out the kinks; my treat. I would like to be sure cooling is not an issue, since I covered up the oil pan fins. I think I may cut a long slot in the leading edge to allow airflow over the oil pan, but still protect against large objects.
@MainePorsche - the front "lip" of the pan slides under the radiator. I'm going to use some thick felt to cushion the metal to metal contact. I think the front attachment can be done better, but I'm wary of using any kind of bolt or screw near the rad, since it's aluminum and $1100 (aftermarket). If anything, I'd like the belly pan to be sacrificial and be engineered to fail predictably; hence only two small bolts hold it in place, and it slides out towards the rear of the car. For $40 and two bolts, I can carry a spare assembly to the track.
@MainePorsche - the front "lip" of the pan slides under the radiator. I'm going to use some thick felt to cushion the metal to metal contact. I think the front attachment can be done better, but I'm wary of using any kind of bolt or screw near the rad, since it's aluminum and $1100 (aftermarket). If anything, I'd like the belly pan to be sacrificial and be engineered to fail predictably; hence only two small bolts hold it in place, and it slides out towards the rear of the car. For $40 and two bolts, I can carry a spare assembly to the track.
#15
@MJ - we can build you one too, once I work out the kinks; my treat. I would like to be sure cooling is not an issue, since I covered up the oil pan fins. I think I may cut a long slot in the leading edge to allow airflow over the oil pan, but still protect against large objects.
@MainePorsche - the front "lip" of the pan slides under the radiator. I'm going to use some thick felt to cushion the metal to metal contact. I think the front attachment can be done better, but I'm wary of using any kind of bolt or screw near the rad, since it's aluminum and $1100 (aftermarket). If anything, I'd like the belly pan to be sacrificial and be engineered to fail predictably; hence only two small bolts hold it in place, and it slides out towards the rear of the car. For $40 and two bolts, I can carry a spare assembly to the track.
@MainePorsche - the front "lip" of the pan slides under the radiator. I'm going to use some thick felt to cushion the metal to metal contact. I think the front attachment can be done better, but I'm wary of using any kind of bolt or screw near the rad, since it's aluminum and $1100 (aftermarket). If anything, I'd like the belly pan to be sacrificial and be engineered to fail predictably; hence only two small bolts hold it in place, and it slides out towards the rear of the car. For $40 and two bolts, I can carry a spare assembly to the track.