T-belt tensioner warning light switch
#3
Yep. You got it right.
#6
Team Owner
As previously stated the parts are assembled in the order you have shown.
So how does this part work?
the spring sits on the tensioner piston,
the washer acts as a spacer and a seat for the spring,
the pushrod with the isolator is the switching point.
Its inner rod section will make contact with the tensioner piston .
So when the belt is tensioned the pushrod will compress the spring and the rod will stay against the piston completing the ground circuit.
If the belt should get loose enough then the spring will add some push to the pushrod and once the belt is loose enough then the connection will be broken,
This momentary disconnect will trigger the belt tension warning light to come on.
NOTE this system isnt enabled till after the engine has been running for 3 minutes,
this to let the engine expand and possibly tighten the belt to normal operation tension
So how does this part work?
the spring sits on the tensioner piston,
the washer acts as a spacer and a seat for the spring,
the pushrod with the isolator is the switching point.
Its inner rod section will make contact with the tensioner piston .
So when the belt is tensioned the pushrod will compress the spring and the rod will stay against the piston completing the ground circuit.
If the belt should get loose enough then the spring will add some push to the pushrod and once the belt is loose enough then the connection will be broken,
This momentary disconnect will trigger the belt tension warning light to come on.
NOTE this system isnt enabled till after the engine has been running for 3 minutes,
this to let the engine expand and possibly tighten the belt to normal operation tension
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#8
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Stan,
Thanks! Finally I get it, open circuit triggers the warning light
And the ground circuit goes thru the piston and into the cast body of the tensioner.
I'll get it assembled tomorrow.
Thanks! Finally I get it, open circuit triggers the warning light
And the ground circuit goes thru the piston and into the cast body of the tensioner.
I'll get it assembled tomorrow.
#9
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#11
Rennlist Member
Gruffalo, Note the wire Leon has, compared with the flat connector you pictured. If you haven't put it back together, I would get the wire connector. I had difficulties with the flat piece breaking due to off-axis torsion being put on it by the tensioner mechanism. Broke two before I got the message. Pain in the neck. Porsche changed the design to the wire for a reason. And of course you could replace the whole thing with Porkensioner.
#12
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I'm aware of the Porkensioner and all the debate around it, I'm sure it works fine.
But I already have a tensioner, it came with the car
The original one has worked perfectly since 1987, and now that I'm replacing everything, it's probably gonna be good for a few years more. For me personally, it just doesn't make sense to replace a part that works. To pay (significantly) extra money for less functionality (the warning light being disabled) and then having to explain to the next owner why the setup isn't original. My impression is that very few has heard of the Porkensioner in Europe.
Maybe the Porkensioner is better, but mine is going to be as good as new, and that's good enough for me
But I already have a tensioner, it came with the car
The original one has worked perfectly since 1987, and now that I'm replacing everything, it's probably gonna be good for a few years more. For me personally, it just doesn't make sense to replace a part that works. To pay (significantly) extra money for less functionality (the warning light being disabled) and then having to explain to the next owner why the setup isn't original. My impression is that very few has heard of the Porkensioner in Europe.
Maybe the Porkensioner is better, but mine is going to be as good as new, and that's good enough for me