R.Pires

Hi,

I’ve replaced my oil pressure sender because the old one was always “flickering” although it seems to read more or less correct, 5 when cold, between 2 and 3 when hot, both at idle, and 5 in normal driving condition when the engine reaches 2000/3000rpm.
Now the new sender is pegged at 5, whether cold, hot, idling or running!!
I’m using Mobil 1 15w50, but I believe that’s not the problem.
Could it be as simple as reversed wires at the sender?

Another problem that has appeared is that the central warning light and the cancel button are always flashing at idle. No other lights on, and with a small touch to increase rpm the lights go off.
Battery and alternator have been replaced two years ago, and when the car is parked for a long time I use a battery conditioner.
What can be causing this?

TIA for your answers and help, much appreciated!

Regards

Mrmerlin

your wires are swapped at the sender.

check the CE panel for clean fuse connections,
and also check the battery,
and 14 pin connector under the hood,
and the alternator belt for tightness

R.Pires

Thank you very much Mrmerlin

Mrmerlin

did you fix this issue??

Mister_M

Forgive the necro-bump, but I have this exact same problem. I'll look at swapping my oil pressure sensor connectors. Thank you Mrmerlin. Here's a video of what mine is doing. It flashes, but also chimes, but very quiet and anemic. You can barely hear it in the video. I've already cleaned up all my fuse connectors on the CE panel. Known issues with my car currently is I'm still chasing down the passenger side marker lights. There's a dead short somewhere blowing the fuse. I've disconnected the connection at the CE panel for those. Fuse is pulled for interior lights while I try and fix the rear hatch lock. The brake pad sensor has been ripped off the caliper on the driver side front, so that's an expected light. Rear hatch is disconnected from security system, though I still haven't seem to find that yet.

Mister_M

Don't know if this helps, but it goes away on acceleration. When you start slowing down, it comes back.

linderpat

following

PanamaImport

Following.

Mine also frequently flickers from max to min. Have checked all connections I can think of and no luck. I tried swapping the leads, but then it also gives me the red warning light (not the main one but the low oil pressure one).

Mrmerlin

dont forget that the signal also passes through the 14 pin connector under the hood.,
if you remove the top cover of the engine side harness,
you might find shedding insulation on the wires this can cause your issues as well

Mister_M

For the warning light or the oil pressure sender? I presume the latter?

Mrmerlin

all of the oil sender and level signals pass through the 14 pin.

NOTE use the WSM diagram for your year as this diagram may not be correct

Mister_M

Thanks again Mrmerlin. Swapping the wires resolved the oil sensor issue. I twisted the brake pad sensor wires together as I'll add one of those to the list of parts to order on my next run. No warnings reported, but I still have that anemic chime going on. Maybe it'll go away after I fix the short on the passenger side running lights and the hatch lock. I have both those fuses pulled, so I wouldn't have thought it would have any affect on anything.

PanamaImport

Thanks Mrmerlin! Checked the 14 pin and in fact the oil level and oil pressure wires were crossed in the bottom half. I'd love to blame a PO but it was probably something I did when I went in a while back to clean all the connections when replacing the FOE harness.