Bulb control bypass
#1
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Bulb control bypass
Got one for Alan/Wally that I need some assistance on and don't think it has been covered.
Customer has installed LED's in his 3rd Brake light and plans on installing them in the rest of his tail lights/brakes etc. Of course the bulb control unit is giving an intermittent warning about the brake lights being inop. Sure we could solder in a resistor but we want to do as the WSM shows on page 90-39. We ordered part number 928 641 610 00 thinking we could just plug and play it. No go, they sent this which is a 12 pin connector with all the bits and a nice do it yourself kit for a nice $50.00. Ack.
The WSM shows this picture:
Now following the wiring diagram for 1988, it shows pin 4 and pin 1 as the corresponding points where current is read? Yea, that's the question. Am I right in thinking that if we bypass this point the brake warning will be bypassed? Now if we jumper pin 2 and pin 3 are we eliminating the warning for the side/tail lights?
Next question, what else is going to be affected if we do this plug in?
Next thought was to just jump pins 8/9 and 20/21 on the central warning computer.
Customer has installed LED's in his 3rd Brake light and plans on installing them in the rest of his tail lights/brakes etc. Of course the bulb control unit is giving an intermittent warning about the brake lights being inop. Sure we could solder in a resistor but we want to do as the WSM shows on page 90-39. We ordered part number 928 641 610 00 thinking we could just plug and play it. No go, they sent this which is a 12 pin connector with all the bits and a nice do it yourself kit for a nice $50.00. Ack.
The WSM shows this picture:
Now following the wiring diagram for 1988, it shows pin 4 and pin 1 as the corresponding points where current is read? Yea, that's the question. Am I right in thinking that if we bypass this point the brake warning will be bypassed? Now if we jumper pin 2 and pin 3 are we eliminating the warning for the side/tail lights?
Next question, what else is going to be affected if we do this plug in?
Next thought was to just jump pins 8/9 and 20/21 on the central warning computer.
#3
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Thanks ZEUS+, looks like this post has all the info I needed.
Last night, at long last, I finally finished up my LED mods. I'll probably do some kind of write-up pretty soon, to add to the already good write-ups that others (like borland) have done recently. Just one more data point to add to the experience knowledge base.
But... one timely thing that I'd like to add now is that the last thing I did last night was to defeat the bulb control module (mine is a 928.641.603.07 on a '90 S4) using a very easy, non-destructive, perfectly reversible technique. You can probably do this in 30 minutes or so. All you need before you begin is:
I'll provide some explanation along with photos.
First, here's the lamp control module, after the carpeted piece of trim held on by three Phillips screws has been removed (this is under the dash between the central electric panel and the right-side door, above the LH and EZK modules). You'll want to yank that connector off; it'll probably require a little effort, as it's on there pretty tightly. There are no interlocks; it's just tight. BTW, you don't need to remove the bulb control unit, you just need to unplug the cable.
Once you have the cable unplugged, use some flat, wide-bladed tool like a putty knife or wood chisel (I used a 3/4-inch wide wood chisel) and pry open the connector along the long edge that isn't hinged; it'll open up, revealing the pins soldered to the wires as shown in the next photo. Be careful when you open this up, because some of the wires and pins might immediately pull out. Cover them with your thumb or something so they don't pop out!
Use your needle-nose pliers to pull out pin 10 (RE/WT wire) to prevent the parking/marker light failure signal from reaching the pod and pull out pin 7 (BK wire) to prevent the brake light failure signal from reaching the pod. Pull them well back and snap the connector shut again, being careful that all the pins are pushed in again (visually confirm this by looking into the pin holes once the connector is closed again; I had two pins that didn't seat properly the first time I did this, and I had to open it up again and fix that).
I then used some clear heat-shrinkable tubing to insulate the pins that I removed from the connector, as shown here.
Reattach the connector to the bulb control module. Test that the bulb control module is working to your satisfaction. Then refasten the carpeted trim piece. You're done. Sleep easily, knowing that you can easily reverse this sometime in the future if you need to.
But... one timely thing that I'd like to add now is that the last thing I did last night was to defeat the bulb control module (mine is a 928.641.603.07 on a '90 S4) using a very easy, non-destructive, perfectly reversible technique. You can probably do this in 30 minutes or so. All you need before you begin is:
- a Phillips screwdriver to remove the three screws holding the carpeted trim piece that, when removed, gives you access to the bulb control module;
- a wide wood chisel or putty knife that you can use to pry open the connector to the bulb control module;
- needle-nose pliers, to make it very easy to pull out a couple of pins from the connector;
- some heat-shrinkable tubing about the size of a drinking straw, to cover the pins after you've removed them
I'll provide some explanation along with photos.
First, here's the lamp control module, after the carpeted piece of trim held on by three Phillips screws has been removed (this is under the dash between the central electric panel and the right-side door, above the LH and EZK modules). You'll want to yank that connector off; it'll probably require a little effort, as it's on there pretty tightly. There are no interlocks; it's just tight. BTW, you don't need to remove the bulb control unit, you just need to unplug the cable.
Once you have the cable unplugged, use some flat, wide-bladed tool like a putty knife or wood chisel (I used a 3/4-inch wide wood chisel) and pry open the connector along the long edge that isn't hinged; it'll open up, revealing the pins soldered to the wires as shown in the next photo. Be careful when you open this up, because some of the wires and pins might immediately pull out. Cover them with your thumb or something so they don't pop out!
Use your needle-nose pliers to pull out pin 10 (RE/WT wire) to prevent the parking/marker light failure signal from reaching the pod and pull out pin 7 (BK wire) to prevent the brake light failure signal from reaching the pod. Pull them well back and snap the connector shut again, being careful that all the pins are pushed in again (visually confirm this by looking into the pin holes once the connector is closed again; I had two pins that didn't seat properly the first time I did this, and I had to open it up again and fix that).
I then used some clear heat-shrinkable tubing to insulate the pins that I removed from the connector, as shown here.
Reattach the connector to the bulb control module. Test that the bulb control module is working to your satisfaction. Then refasten the carpeted trim piece. You're done. Sleep easily, knowing that you can easily reverse this sometime in the future if you need to.
#4
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Well actually what you want to do with that new housing is simply connect through the relevant pins for Brake & Marker lights.
So for an 88 you need (decent sized wiring):
Link Pins 5, 4 & 3 Markers Right Side
Link Pins 6, 2 & 1 Markers Left Side
Link Pins 14, 13, 11 Brakes Left & Right
OR eliminate the warning signals from the current unit per Ed
OR re-engineer the series resistors inside the unit to the correct values so it still functions now as an LED checker (feasible I think).
Alan
So for an 88 you need (decent sized wiring):
Link Pins 5, 4 & 3 Markers Right Side
Link Pins 6, 2 & 1 Markers Left Side
Link Pins 14, 13, 11 Brakes Left & Right
OR eliminate the warning signals from the current unit per Ed
OR re-engineer the series resistors inside the unit to the correct values so it still functions now as an LED checker (feasible I think).
Alan
#5
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Thread Starter
Well actually what you want to do with that new housing is simply connect through the relevant pins for Brake & Marker lights.
So for an 88 you need (decent sized wiring):
Link Pins 5, 4 & 3 Markers Right Side
Link Pins 6, 2 & 1 Markers Left Side
Link Pins 14, 13, 11 Brakes Left & Right
OR eliminate the warning signals from the current unit per Ed
OR re-engineer the series resistor to the correct value so it still functions a an LED checker (feasible I think).
Alan
So for an 88 you need (decent sized wiring):
Link Pins 5, 4 & 3 Markers Right Side
Link Pins 6, 2 & 1 Markers Left Side
Link Pins 14, 13, 11 Brakes Left & Right
OR eliminate the warning signals from the current unit per Ed
OR re-engineer the series resistor to the correct value so it still functions a an LED checker (feasible I think).
Alan
#6
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#7
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You will have the same issue with any of these methods. Porsche just relied on low impedance through the filaments and you no longer have that with LED's
Alan
Alan
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#8
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Thread Starter
Thanks guys, giving the bulb control/brake light issue a test now. Will test cruise a bit later. I've not used the CC in years so it matters not to me, but might to others. Will report back.
#12
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Would any be able to tell me which pins to pull to disable the "tail lamp" warning on my 82?
I'm not too lazy to look, I did look. I just suck at reading the flow chart.
I'm not too lazy to look, I did look. I just suck at reading the flow chart.
#14
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Bob,
Well - I don't know for sure - but its either pin 6 or pin 8 - one is the brake warning and the other is the tail lamps so you can remove one see if thats it and if not swap. I'd start by removing pin 8 that is the most likely one.
Alan
Well - I don't know for sure - but its either pin 6 or pin 8 - one is the brake warning and the other is the tail lamps so you can remove one see if thats it and if not swap. I'd start by removing pin 8 that is the most likely one.
Alan