Oil Leak Help?
#1
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Oil Leak Help?
My '88 S4 A/T 141k miles seems to have developed a serious oil leak somewhere under the intake manifold. Any ideas about the source? I did a search and found one thread suggesting a cracked oil breather hose. Any other possibilities?
And does this mean I have to remove the intake to repair it?
Thanks in advance for your input!
And does this mean I have to remove the intake to repair it?
Thanks in advance for your input!
#4
Inventor
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Toast. I'll bring my GMC over and pull it off of your property. Gratis.
#5
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You are such a giver. I can always count on your support.
Thanks guys.
#6
Rennlist Member
Intake R&R isn't that big a deal. Weekend job at the very most if you have the parts and aren't very handy.
Of course this doesn't count powder coating, retrieving nuts that fall into nowhere, etc.
Of course this doesn't count powder coating, retrieving nuts that fall into nowhere, etc.
#7
Rennlist Member
If you provide some pictures pointing out to the specific area, we can probably troubleshoot this better.
I did my Intake refresh last year and although it does not seem too bad now, I ended up spending lots of time on little things like stripped bolts, broken plastic sensor terminals, cleaning it all up, etc. Then spent quite some $$ on parts. The list kept growing as I kept finding things. I think I might have spent more than $1,500 + powder coating.
I found some leaks at the cam cover and also coming from the power steering hoses (practically replaced all of them) and one of the breather hoses was bad (which is what started the entire thing). If you do an intake, use Dwayne's procedure and test for leaks first.
I did my Intake refresh last year and although it does not seem too bad now, I ended up spending lots of time on little things like stripped bolts, broken plastic sensor terminals, cleaning it all up, etc. Then spent quite some $$ on parts. The list kept growing as I kept finding things. I think I might have spent more than $1,500 + powder coating.
I found some leaks at the cam cover and also coming from the power steering hoses (practically replaced all of them) and one of the breather hoses was bad (which is what started the entire thing). If you do an intake, use Dwayne's procedure and test for leaks first.
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#8
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If you provide some pictures pointing out to the specific area, we can probably troubleshoot this better.
I did my Intake refresh last year and although it does not seem too bad now, I ended up spending lots of time on little things like stripped bolts, broken plastic sensor terminals, cleaning it all up, etc. Then spent quite some $$ on parts. The list kept growing as I kept finding things. I think I might have spent more than $1,500 + powder coating.
I found some leaks at the cam cover and also coming from the power steering hoses (practically replaced all of them) and one of the breather hoses was bad (which is what started the entire thing). If you do an intake, use Dwayne's procedure and test for leaks first.
I did my Intake refresh last year and although it does not seem too bad now, I ended up spending lots of time on little things like stripped bolts, broken plastic sensor terminals, cleaning it all up, etc. Then spent quite some $$ on parts. The list kept growing as I kept finding things. I think I might have spent more than $1,500 + powder coating.
I found some leaks at the cam cover and also coming from the power steering hoses (practically replaced all of them) and one of the breather hoses was bad (which is what started the entire thing). If you do an intake, use Dwayne's procedure and test for leaks first.
Where would I find "Dwayne's proceedure" and does the write up talk about testing for leaks?
Thanks,
#9
Race Director
my .02.... it could be a few things...most likely the loose bolts on the oil filler neck.....which in theory you can fix without pulling the intake....HOWEVER...a 141k S4 needs refreshing under the intake at this point....I would spend the extra time to pull the intake and refresh all the rubber bits under it (possibly flappy bearings if needed) while you are doing it....not that hard of a job....1/2 day easy....
#10
Nordschleife Master
Lots of great writeups on a lot of stuff.
I can personally vouch for the Pod removal, Instrument Cluster repair, and Odometer repair procedures. Great pics, great explainations.
I had ZERO difficulties doing it. That would not have been the case had I just jumped in and started taking stuff apart.
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/
#12
Pro
I did a full intake refresh on my '88 at 167K and it needed every bit of it. Your mileage isn't far off, so I would plan the same.
In my case, oil was coming from the oil filler neck and cam covers and some was pooling in the intake valley. The idle started failing high and the engine was rough. When I got the intake off, I noted the knock sensor wiring was toast and the hose to the ISV was so gooey I could stick my finger thru it. I took the time to clean and refresh all the moving parts, including the throttle and linkages and flappy functions and put a missing stop nut on the flappy. I highly recommend taking the time to go thru it all. Use Dwayne's write-up. For me, now that it is done the engine is silky smooth and gained power, probably due to the sensor refresh - so glad I did it.
In my case, oil was coming from the oil filler neck and cam covers and some was pooling in the intake valley. The idle started failing high and the engine was rough. When I got the intake off, I noted the knock sensor wiring was toast and the hose to the ISV was so gooey I could stick my finger thru it. I took the time to clean and refresh all the moving parts, including the throttle and linkages and flappy functions and put a missing stop nut on the flappy. I highly recommend taking the time to go thru it all. Use Dwayne's write-up. For me, now that it is done the engine is silky smooth and gained power, probably due to the sensor refresh - so glad I did it.
#13
Rennlist Member
It is really sounding like Oil Filler as others are saying.
And yes, my knock sensors cables were so bad and the idle so rough that looking back it was really needed and worth it. But I cannot say it was too easy, but I had limited experience on the 928 when I did it.
And yes, my knock sensors cables were so bad and the idle so rough that looking back it was really needed and worth it. But I cannot say it was too easy, but I had limited experience on the 928 when I did it.
#14
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Thread Starter
my .02.... it could be a few things...most likely the loose bolts on the oil filler neck.....which in theory you can fix without pulling the intake....HOWEVER...a 141k S4 needs refreshing under the intake at this point....I would spend the extra time to pull the intake and refresh all the rubber bits under it (possibly flappy bearings if needed) while you are doing it....not that hard of a job....1/2 day easy....
You would find Dwayne's procedures (all of them) in Dwayne's Garage
Lots of great writeups on a lot of stuff.
I can personally vouch for the Pod removal, Instrument Cluster repair, and Odometer repair procedures. Great pics, great explainations.
I had ZERO difficulties doing it. That would not have been the case had I just jumped in and started taking stuff apart.
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/
Lots of great writeups on a lot of stuff.
I can personally vouch for the Pod removal, Instrument Cluster repair, and Odometer repair procedures. Great pics, great explainations.
I had ZERO difficulties doing it. That would not have been the case had I just jumped in and started taking stuff apart.
http://dwaynesgarage.norcal928.org/
I did a full intake refresh on my '88 at 167K and it needed every bit of it. Your mileage isn't far off, so I would plan the same.
In my case, oil was coming from the oil filler neck and cam covers and some was pooling in the intake valley. The idle started failing high and the engine was rough. When I got the intake off, I noted the knock sensor wiring was toast and the hose to the ISV was so gooey I could stick my finger thru it. I took the time to clean and refresh all the moving parts, including the throttle and linkages and flappy functions and put a missing stop nut on the flappy. I highly recommend taking the time to go thru it all. Use Dwayne's write-up. For me, now that it is done the engine is silky smooth and gained power, probably due to the sensor refresh - so glad I did it.
In my case, oil was coming from the oil filler neck and cam covers and some was pooling in the intake valley. The idle started failing high and the engine was rough. When I got the intake off, I noted the knock sensor wiring was toast and the hose to the ISV was so gooey I could stick my finger thru it. I took the time to clean and refresh all the moving parts, including the throttle and linkages and flappy functions and put a missing stop nut on the flappy. I highly recommend taking the time to go thru it all. Use Dwayne's write-up. For me, now that it is done the engine is silky smooth and gained power, probably due to the sensor refresh - so glad I did it.
Thanks for all the comments and encouragement. I really appreciate it. You guys are an inspiration to me.
Oh, and I am thinking I can GUILT Porken into helping to atone for all his mocking of my mechanic's skill, or lack thereof.