Most likely it's just condensation- I have an old Lincoln that does that every winter. If you really want to know everything that could be in the oil- send a sample to Blackstone Labs - they will give you a very detailed printout.

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php

Sample report from their site: click on" gas/ diesel"

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/report-explanation.php

 

might do that....thanks...

Ya know, as I reflect, in the HVAC biz, you get tremendous contamination and moisture in a compressor that sits open to the atmosphere, oil has an affinity to moisture, and we have to pull multiple vacuums and add driers to clean them up before and during service...So what is an engine, besides a big compressor? (well, not that big...I work on much larger...hehe)...I guess it should not have scared me as bad...this thing sat for almost 20 years, under a tree, with no fuel tank or lines connected, no air cleaner connected, nothing to really protect her...and I come along and awaken her, and only run her 20 mins or so each evening....she is gonna be a little wet, i suppose...lol...

 

Ron,

As opposed to pulling the engine, I'd consider leaving it in, placing fluids and hoses and belts as necessary. Especially if you are getting decent oil pressure. Do a compression test. if all seems good, drive the crap out of it!

 

You mention running straight distilled water in the cooling system. That's not a good idea. Distilled water is somewhat starved for ions, and the aluminum block and radiator provide ready sources. Get some coolant in there, at least 25%, just for the corrosion protection. Coolant also provides lubrication for the water pump seal, always a plus. If you aren't going to run the engine for a long while, it's OK to drain ALL the water out and let the block dry out during storage.

That oil, even thought you've identified the contamination, needs to be changed. If the engine is just going to sit for a while, you may decide that cheap 10W-30 is good enough, at least until you get ready to drive it. Moisture in the oil contributes to spot corrosion in bearings and lifters, and on camshaft surfaces in engines that are hibernating. The obvious corrosion gets wiped off OK when you do decide to restart, but the metal that's been sacrificed now has micro pitting that will never be recovered.

For seriously extended storage, I've filled the crankcase and the water jackets to the brim with kerosene/diesel, with all the vents and ports plugged. Then it gets all the exterior corrosion-prevention steps with a spray of marine preservative. CRC makes a good one, and I'm sure there are others. Then the engine gets bagged with dessicant packs, and goes on the rack for storage. There are a few Lotus engines in storage, along with some vintage Yamaha scooter engines, and they come out of hibernation in the same condition they were stored. The Lotus engines were pickled in the eraly 1970's. One was opened for inspection in the mid 1980's, and put back. The Yamaha pieces have been sitting for over 25 years now, waiting patiently for their day.

 

A gasoline engine puts out just over a gallon of water for every gallon of gasoline burned. A significant amount gets by the rings into the oil on a cold engine.

One of the major reasons for not starting an engine periodically during winter hibernation...

 

This is interesting. My car is currently in hibernation for the winter and has been periodically started and run long enough to get the temp up.

Is this not advisable? And should I change the oil in the spring, even though it will be less than a year old?

 

Its no big deal..just moisture condensing on cool things on the way out.

Run it to temp..its gone...but if youre doing the start now and then but not really warming it up for a period of time..sure..change it in spring.

 

Thanks again for the input guys, all good points....

Dr. Bob...I just put fresh oil in her...only has about 2 hrs. total run time....good point about the anti-freeze tho'..will drain some water and add this weekend...surely you guys read my oil plug and filter debacle a week or so ago? I am trying to get her running well (she improves everytime I play with it), hence the short run periods, as I try to revive her. At the paint and body stage, I am considering pulling the motor and doing a refresh then....I have no intent to let her sit and not run anytime during this revival....At this point of the resurrection, she does not get the run time she deserves, but the intent is to increase her operation over the next few months....

I used Wal-mart 20-50, and an STP oil filter spec'd for the 928, oh, and some STP ZDDP additive....I have fresh coolant to put in once the water was drained....the water was used for the flush, and left in for the initial start.

The belts have been on there since 93...they are rotted looking, of course, and I have brand new ones on the shelf....The TB actually looks good, but I would not trust it for driving....I am hoping to get her running good enough, and for the weather to let up so the ground can dry, I will then put her tires back on and back her out of the shop under her own power to get a little sunlight...I am about 30 days from that stage....still have to confirm clutch, gearbox, and brakes are good (need to change gearbox oil as well) As in good, useable for this stage, gathering parts as funds permit for brake overhaul....

 

Also one of the major reasons for an oil filter, to catch water.

 

Lets see pics of car . Nothing better then saving a 928 .

 

Check out my thread...

https://rennlist.com/forums/928-foru...ue-thread.html

Lots of pics there