Just an FYI
#31
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
I forget what signal it was that runs directly to the tach. Green wire, or something. Anyway some surprisingly high voltage runs directly to the tach.. 60V or something like that. So if something was funky in the ignition, it might be that an even higher voltage was running back to the tach and cooking the bugger.
The only other thing I can think of would be a ground potential difference between the instrument cluster and the motor.
The only other thing I can think of would be a ground potential difference between the instrument cluster and the motor.
Let's see, you've got a car that's a '82.
It's using a replacement cluster that appears to be from a '83.
You're swapping in gauges from a '86.
I think the main problem is the '83 cluster in a '82. IIRC, '83-'88 clusters are plug and play (I know for absolute fact that a '87 cluster will work in a '85.)
I would try to find a cluster that you know for certain is from a '82 and keep your eyes open for obvious signs of altered wiring.
Not much mystery here. Just because something fits in the hole, doesn't mean it's the right part, or that it will even work.
It's using a replacement cluster that appears to be from a '83.
You're swapping in gauges from a '86.
I think the main problem is the '83 cluster in a '82. IIRC, '83-'88 clusters are plug and play (I know for absolute fact that a '87 cluster will work in a '85.)
I would try to find a cluster that you know for certain is from a '82 and keep your eyes open for obvious signs of altered wiring.
Not much mystery here. Just because something fits in the hole, doesn't mean it's the right part, or that it will even work.
I had thought about that, with everything else going on I figured the GW was going to be bad, but it is in fine shape. I've not taken it off the dist to check internals but suspect nothing wrong due to the stead tach pulse at the cluster.
#32
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Did a bit more comparison between the clusters I have sitting around here. Looks like I've been trading parts between an '83 in to this replacement 78-82. Only differences between tachs is the MPG read out on the '82.
The ignition switch had some loose internals so installed a new one but unfortunately I do not have another cluster to grab a tach from. The '85+ tachs will not fit due to rear connections so I put the calls out to the locals for a 78-82 and am hoping for results. There doesn't seem to be anyone in the DFW area who is even willing to try and put a new resistor on these tachs, 82R's are the ones I need and Radioshack doesn't seem to have what I need. Last resort is to send them out to Ca and have them do it.
Looks like I'm taking the rest of the day off to play BF3.
The ignition switch had some loose internals so installed a new one but unfortunately I do not have another cluster to grab a tach from. The '85+ tachs will not fit due to rear connections so I put the calls out to the locals for a 78-82 and am hoping for results. There doesn't seem to be anyone in the DFW area who is even willing to try and put a new resistor on these tachs, 82R's are the ones I need and Radioshack doesn't seem to have what I need. Last resort is to send them out to Ca and have them do it.
Looks like I'm taking the rest of the day off to play BF3.
#33
Range Master
Pepsie Lite
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
Pepsie Lite
Lifetime Rennlist
Member
I have seen resisters fail because of a failed capacitor...... that second one looks to have a failed resistor, and it looks like it got HOT!
As to me not always being a grumpy old hillbilly, I catch you repeating that mister, and you will hear from my fookin LAWYERS!
As to me not always being a grumpy old hillbilly, I catch you repeating that mister, and you will hear from my fookin LAWYERS!