Hall Sensor repair
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Hall Sensor repair
While doing my 88 TB/WP I have learned a lesson I would like to pass along.
I replaced both cam sprockets including the crank and oil sprockets.
While the passenger side cam sprocket is removed take the time to remove the cam backing plate (3 bolts). You can then access the Hall Sensor and inspect it completely. Mine turned out to have severed wires from being pinched possibly during MM replacement. I do know that it was not functioning. With the Hall sensor on the bench my repairs were easily made (easy 4mm hex removal).
The other vital plus to removing the cam backing plate is it is a piece of cake to route the engine harness 12 pin connector and that pesky ground bolt( Dr Bob favorite). In fact I would save removing the 12 pin harness during TB until last procedure before belt removal. I also belive most damage to weak Hall sensor is done when pulling or pushing engine harness 12 pin into location.
Thomas
I replaced both cam sprockets including the crank and oil sprockets.
While the passenger side cam sprocket is removed take the time to remove the cam backing plate (3 bolts). You can then access the Hall Sensor and inspect it completely. Mine turned out to have severed wires from being pinched possibly during MM replacement. I do know that it was not functioning. With the Hall sensor on the bench my repairs were easily made (easy 4mm hex removal).
The other vital plus to removing the cam backing plate is it is a piece of cake to route the engine harness 12 pin connector and that pesky ground bolt( Dr Bob favorite). In fact I would save removing the 12 pin harness during TB until last procedure before belt removal. I also belive most damage to weak Hall sensor is done when pulling or pushing engine harness 12 pin into location.
Thomas